TEXTILE DICTONARY

ABNORMAL CRIMP- A relative term for crimp that is either too low or too high in frequency

and/or amplitude or that has been put into the fiber with improper angular characteristics.

ABRADED YARN- A filament yarn in which filaments have been cut or broken to create hairiness (fibrillation) to simulate the surface character of spun yarns. Abraded yarns are usually plied or twisted with other yarns before use.

ABRASION MARK- An area where a fabric has been damaged by friction.

ABRASION RESISTANCE- The ability of a fiber or fabric to withstand surface wear and rubbing.

ABSORBANCE- The ability of a substance to transform radiant energy into a different form, usually with a resulting rise in temperature. Mathematically, absorbance is the negative logarithm to the base 10 of transmittance.

ABSORBENCY- The ability of one material to take up another material.

ABSORPTION- The process of gases or liquids being taken up into the pores of a fiber, yarn, or

fabric.

ACETIC ACID- An organic acid (CH3COOH) widely used in textile applications. It is used in textile wet processing, dyeing and printing, and in the manufacture of cellulose acetate and cellulose triacetate.

ACETIC ANHYDRIDE- Anhydrous acetic acid [(CH3CO)2O]. It is used in the acetylation process in the manufacture of cellulose acetate.

ACETONE- Dimethyl ketone (CH3COCH3). One of the most powerful organic solvents. Acetone dissolves secondary cellulose acetate and other derivatives of cellulose. It is miscible with water and has a low boiling point (55-56°).

ACID-DYEABLE VARIANTS- Polymers modified chemically to make them receptive to acid

dyes.

ACIDIC- A term describing a material having a pH of less than 7.0 in water.

ACID RECOVERY- A reclamation process in chemical processing in which acid is extracted from a raw material, by-product, or waste product. In the manufacture of cellulose acetate, acetic acid is a major by-product. Acid recovery consists of combining all wash water containing appreciable acetic acid and concentrating it to obtain glacial acetic acid.

ACID RESISTANCE- The property of withstanding contact or treatment with any acids normally encountered in use. The type of acid should be stated (i.e., organic or inorganic).

ACRYLIC FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain

synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units [-CH2-CH(CN)-] (FTC definition). Acrylic fibers are produced by two basic methods of spinning (extrusion), dry and wet. In the dry spinning method, material to be spun is dissolved is a solvent. After extrusion through the spinneret, the solvent is evaporated, producing continuous filaments which later may be cut into staple, if desired. In wet spinning, the spinning solution is extruded into a liquid coagulating bath to form filaments, which are drawn, dried, and processed.

ACTION STRETCH- A term applied to fabrics and garments that give and recover in both the lengthwise and the widthwise directions. Action stretch is ideal for tight-fitting garments such as ski pants.

ACTIVATED CARBON- Charcoal, mostly of vegetable origin, of high adsorptive capacity. It is used for decolorizing liquids and other adsorption purifications. Usually made by carbonization and chemical activation.

ADDITION POLYMERIZATION- A reaction yielding a polymer in which the molecular formula of the repeating unit is identical with that of the monomer. The molecular weight of a polymer so formed is a simple sum of the molecular weight of the combined monomer units. Combination occurs by means of rearrangement of the chemical bonds.

ADDITIVE- A supplementary material combined with a base material to provide special properties. For example, pigments are used as dope additives to give color in mass dyeing.

ADHESION- The force that holds different materials together at their interface and resists separation into two layers.

ADHESION PROMOTERS- Products used to treat the smooth fiber-face of closely constructed base fabric to provide a chemical bonding site for subsequent coating. This step is done because it is difficult to get good coating adhesion via strikethrough and mechanical bonding in closely constructed fabrics. Products containing the isocyanate group are the most widely used promoters.

ADHESIVE ACTIVATED YARNS- Yarns treated by the fiber manufacturer to promote better adhesion to another material such as rubber and/or to allow easier processing.

ADHESIVE MIGRATION- In nonwovens, the movement of adhesive together with its carrier solvent in a fabric during drying, giving it a non-uniform distribution within the web, usually increasing to the outer layers.

ADHESIVES- In textiles, materials which cause fibers, yarns, or fabrics to stick together or to other materials.

ADIPIC ACID- 1,4-butanedicarboxylic acid [COOH(CH2)4COOH]. It is used in the polymerization reaction to form nylon 66 polymers and in the manufacture of polyurethane foams.

ADSORPTION- The attraction of gases, liquids, or solids to surface areas of textile fibers, yarns, fabrics, or any material.

ADVANCED COMPOSITE- Polymer, resin, or other matrix-material system in which reinforcement is accomplished via high-strength, high-modulus materials in continuous filament form or is discontinuous form such as staple fibers, fibrets, and in-situ dispersions.

AESTHETICS- In textiles, properties perceived by touch and sight, such as the hand, color,luster, drape, and texture of fabrics or garments.

AFFINITY- Chemical attraction; the tendency of two elements or substances to unite or combine, such as fiber and dyestuff.

AFTERGLOW- The flameless, glowing combustion of certain solid materials that occurs after the removal of an external source of ignition or after the cessation of combustion of the material.

AFTERTREATMENT- Any treatment done after fabric production. In dyeing, it refers to treating dyed material in ways to improve properties; in nonwovens, it refers to finishing processes carried out after a web has been formed and bonded. Examples are embossing, creping,softening, printing, and dyeing.

AGEING- 1. Deterioration of textile or other materials caused by gradual oxidation during storage and/or exposure to light. 

2. The oxidation stage of alkali-cellulose in the manufacture of viscose rayon from bleached wood pulp. 

3. Originally, a process in which printed fabric was exposed to a hot, moist atmosphere. Presently, the term is applied to the treatment of printed fabric in moist steam in the absence of air. Ageing is also used for the development of certain colors in dyeing, e.g., aniline black.

AGER- A steam chamber used for ageing printed or padded material.

AGGLOMERATION- A cluster of particles or fibers.

AGITATE- To stir or to mix, as in the case of a dyebath or solution.

AIR BAG- An automatically inflating bag in front of riders in an automobile to protect them from pitching forward in an accident. End use for manufactured textile fibers.

AIR BRUSHING- Blowing color on a fabric or paper with a mechanized pneumatic brush.

AIR CONDITIONING- 1. A chemical process for sealing short, fuzzy fibers into a yarn. Fabrics made from air-conditioned yarns are porous. Because they allow more air circulation, these fabrics are also cooler. 2. Control of temperature and/or humidity in work or living space.

AIR FORMING- A process in which air is used to separate and move fibers to fashion a web such as the Kroyer® process for short fibers, usually of wood pulp; or the Rando-Webber® process for staple-length fibers.

AIR JET SPINNING- A spinning system in which yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air. In this process, the fibers are drafted to appropriate sliver size, then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted, first in one direction, then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. They are stabilized after each twisting operation.

AIR-LAID NONWOVENS- Fabrics made by an air-forming process (q.v.). The fibers are distributed by air currents to give a random orientation within the web and a fabric with isotropic properties.

AIR PERMEABILITY- The porosity or the ease with which air passes through material. Air permeability determines such factors as the wind resistance of sailcloth, the air resistance of parachute cloth, and the efficacy of various types of air filters. It also influences the warmth or coolness of a fabric.

AIRPLANE FABRIC- A plain, tightly woven, water-repellent fabric traditionally made of mercerized cotton. During World War I, the fabric was treated with a cellulose acetate dope and used to cover the wings, tail, and fuselage of airplanes. Today, similar fabrics made from nylon or polyester/cotton blends are used in rainwear and sportswear.

AIR-SUPPORTED ROOF- A fabric-based roofing system that is supported and held in place by air pressure.

ALBATROSS- A soft, lightweight wool or wool blend fabric in a plain weave with a napped, fleecy surface that resembles in texture, the breast of the albatross. It is usually light-colored and is used in negligees, infants’ wear, etc.

ALGINATE FIBER- Fiber formed from a metallic salt (normally calcium) of alginic acid, which is a natural polymer occurring in seaweed. Alginate fiber is soluble in water.

ALKALINE- A term used to describe a material having a pH greater than 7.0 in water.

ALKYLATION- The introduction of an alkyl radical into an organic molecule.

ALLOY- A solid or liquid mixture of two or more metals; or of one or more metals with certain nonmetallic elements formed by fusing the components.

ALPACA- 1. Long, fine hair from Alpaca sheep. 2. A fabric from alpaca fibers or blends,(originally a cotton cloth with alpaca filling) that is used for dresses, coats, suits, and sweaters. It is also used as a pile lining for jackets and coats. (The term has been incorrectly used to describe

a rayon fabric.)

ALPACA STITCH- A 1 x 1 purl-links stitch that is knit so that the courses run vertically instead of horizontally as the fabric comes off the knitting machine. A garment made with an alpaca stitch is not always

100% alpaca; it can be made of other natural or manufactured fibers.

ALPHA CELLULOSE- One of three forms of cellulose. Alpha cellulose has the highest degree of polymerization and is the chief constituent ofpaper pulp and chemical dissolving-grade pulp.

ALSIMAG®- Registered trademark of American Lava Corporation for ceramic materials. These materials are used in guides and discs on textile processing machines and fiber manufacturing equipment.

ALTERNATING TWIST- A texturing procedure in which S and Z twist are alternately inserted

in the yarn by means of a special heating arrangement.

AMINE END GROUP- The terminating (-NH2) group of a nylon polymer chain. Amine end groups provide dye sites for polyamides.

AMORPHOUS- Noncrystalline, lacking regular geometrical shape. Used to describe certain regions in polymers.

ANGORA- 1. The hair of the Angora goat. The long, fine fibers are so smooth and soft that they must be combined with other fibers in weaving.

2. The hair of the Angora rabbit. The fine,lightweight hair is warm, and it is often blended with wool to decrease price and to obtain novelty effects in weaving. By law, the fiber must be described as Angora rabbit hair.

ANHYDRIDE- A compound formed by abstraction of water, usually from an acid. Example-

acetic anhydride, which is used in converting cellulose to cellulose acetate.

ANIDEX FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 50% by weight of one or more esters of a monohydric alcohol and acrylic acid, (CH2=CH-COOH) (FTC definition).

ANIMAL FIBERS- Fibers of animal origin such as wool, alpaca, camel hair, and silk.

ANISOTROPIC- Not having the same physical properties in every direction. In the plane of a

fabric, it is related to a non-random distribution of fibers.

ANTIBACTERIAL FINISH- A treatment of a textile material to make it resistant to, or to

retard growth of, bacteria.

ANTICHLOR- A chemical, such as sodium thiosulfate, used to remove excess chlorine after

bleaching.

ANTIFELTING AGENTS- Products that prevent or minimize matting and compaction of

textile materials.

ANTIFOAMING AGENT- An additive that minimizes the formation of bubbles within or on

the surface of a liquid by reducing the forces that support the bubble’s structure.

ANTIOXIDANT- A substance to retard deterioration (of fiber, fabrics, finishes, etc.) resulting

from reaction with oxygen.

ANTISOILING PROPERTIES- The properties of textile materials whereby they resist

deposition of dirt and stains.

ANTISTAINING PROPERTIES- The ability of a textile to resist the deposition of oil- or

water-borne stains.

ANTISTATIC PROPERTIES- The ability of a textile material to disperse an electrostatic

charge and to prevent the build up of static electricity.

APPLIQUE- A design made separately and then sewn on a cloth or garment.

ARACHNE MACHINE- A machine for producing loop-bonded nonwovens. The fabric is

formed by knitting a series of warp yarns through a fiber web processed on a card.

ARAMID FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming material is a long chain

synthetic polyamide having at least 85% of its amide linkages (-NH-CO-) attached directly to two

aromatic rings (FTC definition).Aramid fibers exhibit low flammability, high strength, and high modulus. Fabrics made from aramid fibers maintain their integrity at high temperatures, such fabrics are used extensively inhot-air filters. Aramids are also found in protective clothing, ropes and cables, and tire cord.

ARGYLE- A pattern consisting of diamond shapes of different colors knit in a fabric.

ARTIFICIAL TURF- A manufactured carpet having the appearance of grass. Used to replace

grass in sports arenas, yards, etc. 

ART LINEN- A plain-weave, softly finished fabric used either bleached or unbleached as a base

fabric for needlework.

ASBESTOS- A nonmetallic mineral fiber, which is nonflammable. The fiber is woven into fabrics and used for theater curtains and industrial uses where flame-resistant materials are

needed.

ASPECT RATIO- 1. The ratio of length to diameter of a fiber or yarn bundle. 2. In tire production, the ratio of the height of the tire to its width. 3. In a rectangular structure, the ratio of

the longer dimension to the shorter.

ASTRAKHAN CLOTH- A thick knit or woven fabric with loops or curls on the face. The base

yarns are usually cotton or wool and the loops are made with fibers such as mohair, wool, and

certain manufactured fibers. The face simulated the pelt of the astrakhan lamb.

ATACTIC POLYMER- A type of polymer molecule in which substituent groups or atoms are arranged randomly above and below the backbone chain of atoms, when the latter are all in the same plane (e.g., in polypropylene).

ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS- In general, the relative humidity, barometric pressure, and temperature existing at a given time.

ATTRITION MILLS- Machines for reducing materials into smaller particles by grinding down

by friction. In the manufacture of acetate and triacetate fibers, equipment used in shredding pulp

prior to acetylation.

AUTOCLAVE- 1. An apparatus for carrying out certain finishing operation, such as pleating and heat setting, under pressure in a superheated steam atmosphere. 2. Apparatus for polymerizing condensation polymers such as nylon or polyester at any pressure above or below atmospheric.

AVERAGE STIFFNESS- The ratio of change in stress to change in strain between two points

on a stress-strain diagram, particularly the points of zero stress and breaking stress.

AXIAL YARN- A system of longitudinal yarns in a triaxial braid that are inserted between bias

yarns.

AXMINSTER CARPET- A machine-woven carpet in which successive weft-wise rows of pile are inserted during weaving according to a predetermined arrangement of colors. There are four main types of

Axminster looms- Spool, Gripper, Gripper-Spool, and Chenille.

AZLON FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance consists of any regenerated naturally occurring proteins (FTC definition). Azlon is not currently produced in the United States.

BACK COATING- The application of latex or adhesive to the back of a carpet to anchor the

tufts, usually followed immediately by addition of a secondary backing material such as woven

jute or nonwoven polypropylene.

BACKED CLOTH- A material with an extra warp or filling added for weight and warmth.

Satin-weave and twill-weave constructions are frequently used in the design of backed cloth

because they are relatively resistant to the passage of air.

BACK FILLING- A solution composed of varying amounts of cornstarch, China clay, talc, and

tallow that is applied to the back side of low-grade, low-cost cloth to change its hand, improve its

appearance, and increase its weight.

BACK WARP- The warp which, along with the back filling, actually forms the second face

(back) of double, triple, or quadruple fabrics.

BACK WINDING- 1. Rewinding yarn or fiber from one type of package to another. 2.

Winding yarn as it is deknit.

BACTERICIDAL FIBER- Fiber used for medical applications, socks, shoe liners, etc., in which

bactericides are introduced directly into the fiber matrix as opposed to fiber simply having a

bactericidal finish applied.

BAGGING- 1. A fabric woven in cylindrical or tubular form on an ordinary cam loom and used

for grain bags, etc. 2. Fabric bulging caused by extension at the knees, elbows, etc., of a garment

lacking dimensional stability.

BAGGY CLOTH- A fabric that does not lie flat, caused by sections of tight or loose yarns in

either the warp or the filling.

BALANCED CLOTH- A term describing a woven fabric with the same size yarn and the same

number of threads per inch in both the warp and the filling direction.

BALANCED TWISTS- In a plied yarn or cord, an arrangement of twist which will not cause the

yarn or cord to twist on itself of kink when held in an open loop.

BALE- A bag, sack, square or oblong box, or package into which silk, staple fibers, or tow are

compressed. The common shipping and storage package for these fibers.

BALLING UP- A defect in which loose or frayed fibers form into a ball and are then woven into

the fabric.

BALL MILL- A standard method of reducing water-insoluble substances such as pigments or

dyestuffs to a fine state of division. It consists of a cylinder, rotating on an axis, partly filled with

steel balls, porcelain balls, or common pebbles. The controlling factors are size of balls, relative

volumes occupied by balls and substance, type and quality of substance, and rate and time of

rotation.

BALLOON- The curved paths of running yarns about the take-up package

during spinning, downtwisting, plying, or winding, or while they are being

withdrawn over-end from packages under appropriate yarnwinding

conditions.

BALLOON FABRIC- A plain-weave cloth having the same breaking

strength in each direction. This fabric is made from fine (60’s to 100’s)

combed yarn woven to constructions of 92 x 108 to 116 x 128. Vulcanized

balloon fabric is used for air cells in planes and barrage balloons.

BALL WARP- Parallel threads in the form of a twistless rope wound into

a large ball. When wound mechanically with quick traverse a ball warp

may be made in the form of a large cylindrical package.

BANDING, HEAVY TOW- Nonuniform distribution of filaments across towband width.

BANDLE- A coarse homespun linen made on narrow hand looms in Ireland.

BANK- Another name for a yarn creel.

BARATHEA- 1. A silk, rayon, or manufactured fiber necktie fabric with a broken rib weave and

a characteristic pebbly appearance. 2. A fine, dress fabric with a silk warp and worsted filling,

woven in a broken filling rib which completely covers the warp. 3. A smooth-faced worsted

uniform cloth with an indistinct twilled basket weave of fine two-ply yarns.

BAR CODE- Adjacent stripes of varying width used to represent

alpha-numeric characters. These permit rapid reading by means of

electronic scanners.

BARKING- The removal of bark from wood prior to pulping.

BARRE- A defect characterized by bars or streaks, fillingwise in woven fabrics or coursewise in

weft-knit fabrics, caused by uneven tension in knitting, defective yarn, improper needle action, or

other similar factors.

BASE FABRIC- In coated fabrics, the underlying substrate (q.v.).

BASIC- A term describing substances having an alkaline nature. Bases may or may not be water

soluble.

BASIS WEIGHT- The weight of a unit area of fabric. Examples are ounces per square yard and

grams per square centimeter.

BASKET STITCH- In this knit construction, purl and plain loops are

combined with a preponderance of purl loops in the pattern courses to give

a basket-weave effect.

BASKET WEAVE- A variation of the plain weave in which two or more

warp and filling threads are woven side by side to resemble a plaited

basket. Fabrics have a loose construction and a flat appearance and are

used for such things as monk’s cloth and drapery fabrics.

BAST FIBER- Any of certain strong, woody fibers used in making rope,

cordage etc.

BAYARDERE- A very broad term for stripes that run crosswise in a knit or woven fabric.

BCF YARNS- Bulked continuous filament yarns for carpet trade, usually nylon, polypropylene,

or polyester.

BEADED VELVET- Velvet with a cut-out pattern or a velvet pile effect, made on a Jacquard

loom. This fabric is used primarily for evening wear.

BEAM- A cylinder of wood or metal, usually with a circular flange

on each end, on which warp yarns are wound for slashing, weaving,

and warp knitting.

BEAM DYEING MACHINE- A machine for dyeing warp yarns or fabrics that have been

wound onto a special beam, the barrel of which is evenly perforated with holes. The dye liquor is

forced through the yarn or fabric from inside to outside and vice versa.

BEARDING- Fuzz on loop pile carpets usually resulting from poor anchorage or fiber snagging.

BEATER- 1. The machine which does most of the opening and cleaning work on a fiber picker

and opener. Revolving at high speed, it beats against the fringe of fiber as the latter is fed into the

machine. 2. A machine used in the paper industry for opening pulp and combining additives.

BEATING-UP- The last operation of the loom in weaving, in which the last pick inserted in the

fabric is “beat” into position against the preceeding picks.

BEAVER CLOTH- Made of high-quality wool, this heavy but soft fabric has a deep nap.

Beaver cloth is frequently used in overcoats.

BECK- A vessel for dyeing fabric in rope form, consisting

primarily of a tank and a reel to advance the fabric.

BEDFORD CORD- A rib-weave fabric with raised lengthwise

cords produced by using stuffing threads in the warp. Since the

fabric is strong and wears well, it is used for upholstery, suits,

riding habits, and work clothes.

BEETLING- A process in which round-thread linen or cotton

fabric is pounded to give a flat effect. Beetled linen damask has an

increased luster and a leather-like texture. Beetling is also used to

give a thready or linen-like appearance to cotton.

BENDING LENGTH- A measure of fabric stiffness based on how the fabric bends in one plane

under the force of gravity.

BENDING MODULUS- Maximum stress per unit area that a specimen can withstand without

breaking when bent. For fibers, the stress per unit of linear fiber weight required to produce a

specified deflection of a fiber.

BENGALINE- A fabric similar to faille, only heavier, with a fine weave and widthwise cords.

Originally, bengalines were made of a silk, wool, or rayon warp with a worsted or cotton filling

and used for dresses, coats, trimmings, and draperies. Modern bengalines are made with filament

acetate or polyester warps. Also, some bengalines have fine spun warps with 2- and 3-ply heavier

spun yarns for filling cord effects.

BENZENE- A volatile, flammable, colorless liquid hydrocarbon, (C6H6), used as an illuminant, a

solvent for fats and resins, a raw material in dye synthesis, and the hydrocarbon source for many

manufactured fibers.

BENZOATE FIBER- Fiber with a silk-like hand made from a condensation polymer of p-(Bhydroxyethoxy)

benzoic acid.

BETA CELLULOSE- One of the three forms of cellulose. It has a lower degree of

polymerization that the alpha form. With gamma cellulose it is known as hemicellulose.

BIAS FABRIC- A two-dimensional fabric that when oriented in the XY plane contains fibers

that are aligned in a different direction, i.e., 45° to the X-axis fibers.

BIAS FILLING- A fabric defect in which the filling yarn does not run at a right angle to the

warp. The principal cause is improper processing on the tenter frame.

BICOMPONENT YARNS- Spun or filament yarns of two generic fibers or two variants of the

same generic fiber.

BICONSTITUENT FIBER- A fiber extruded from a homogeneous mixture of two different

polymers. Such fibers combine the characteristics of the two polymers into a single fiber.

BIDIRECTIONAL FABRIC- A fabric having reinforcing fibers in two directions, i.e., in the

warp (machine) direction and filling (cross-machine) direction.

BILATERAL FIBERS- Two generic fibers or variants of the same

generic fiber extruded in a side-by-side relationship.

BINDER- An adhesive applied with a solvent or a softenable plastic

melted to bond fibers together in a web or to bind one web to another.

BINDER CONTENT- The weight of adhesive used to bond the fibers of a

web together. Usually expressed as percent of fabric weight.

BINDER FIBERS- Fibers that can act as an adhesive in a web because

their softening point is relatively low compared with that of the other fibers

in the material.

BIODEGRADABLE- The ability of a substance to be broken down by bacteria so that it can be

returned to the environment without posing an environmental hazard.

BIRDSEYE- 1. A generic term describing a cloth woven on a dobby loom, with a geometric

pattern having a center dot resembling a bird’s eye. Originally birdseye was made of cotton and

used as a diaper cloth because of its absorbent qualities, but now the weave is made from a

variety of fibers or fiber blends for many different end uses. 2. A speckled effect on the back of

a knit fabric resulting from the use of different colors on the face design.

BIREFRINGENCE- An optical term meaning double refraction, and used in examination of

manufactured fibers to measure the degree of molecular orientation effected by stretching or

drawing.

BLANKET- An unquilted bedding fabric designed primarily to provide thermal insulation

BLEACHING- Any of several processes to remove the natural and artificial impurities in fabrics

to obtain clear whites for finished fabric or in preparation for dyeing and finishing.

BLEB- A blister or bubble on the face of a spinning jet, interrupting the extrusion of the filament

from the spinneret hole involved.

BLEB RATE- The frequency of bleb formation in an extrusion operation.

BLEEDING- Loss of color by a fabric or yarn when immersed in water, a solvent, or a similar

liquid medium, as a result of improper dyeing or the use of dyes of poor quality. Fabrics that

bleed can cause staining of white or light shade fabrics in contact with them while wet.

CABLED YARN: A yarn formed by twisting together two or more plied yarns.

CABLE STITCH: A knit effect produced by crossing a group of stitches over a neighboring

stitch group.

CABLE TWIST: A construction of thread, yarn, cord, or rope in which each successive twist is in the direction opposite the preceding twists; i.e., and S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction.

CALENDERING: A mechanical finishing process for fabrics to produce special effects, such as

high luster, glazing, moiré, and embossed effects. In this operation, the fabric is passed between

heated rolls under pressure.

CALENDERING ROLLS: 1. The main cylinders on a calender. 2.

Smooth or fluted rolls used on carious fiber-processing machines such as

pickers and cards to compress the lap or sliver as it passes between them.

CAM: A rotating or sliding piece or projection used to impart timed or periodic motion to other

parts of a machine. It is used chiefly as a controlling or timing element in machines rather than as

part of a power transmission mechanism. Cams are particularly important in both knitting and

weaving machinery.

CAMBRIC: A soft, white, closely woven, cotton or cotton blend fabric that has been calendered

on the right side to give it a slight gloss. Cambric is used extensively for handkerchiefs.

CAN: 1. A cylindrical container, about 3 feet high and 10 to 12 inches in diameter, that is used to

collect sliver delivered by a card, drawing frame, etc.

CANDLE FILTER: A small filter interposed between the spinning pump and spinning jet to

effect final filtration of the spinning solution prior to extrusion.

CANDLE WATER TEMPERATURE: The temperature of the water surrounding the candle

filter or within the heating jacket during fiber extrusion.

CANDLEWICK FABRIC: An unbleached muslin base fabric used to produce a chenille-like

fabric by applying candlewick (heavy-plied yarn) loops and cutting the loops to give a fuzzy

effect.

CAPACITANCE: The measure of the ability of a nonconductor to store electrical energy by

means of the potential difference across the surfaces of the nonconductor.

CAPROLACTAM: A white, crystalline, cyclic amide (C6H11NO) which yields å-amino-caproic

acid on hydrolysis and is used as a raw material in the manufacture of nylon 6.

CAP SPINNING: A system of spinning employing a stationary, highly polished metal cap just large enough to fit over the take-up bobbin, which revolves at a high rate of speed. The cap controls thebuild and imparts sufficient tension to the yarn for winding. The yarn is twisted and wound onto packages simultaneously.

CARBON-ARC LAMP: A type of fading lamp which utilizes an arc between two carbon electrodes as the source of radiation.

CARBON FIBER: A high-tensile fiber or whisker made by heating rayon or polyacrylonitrile fibers or petroleum residues to appropriate temperatures. Fibers may be 7 to 8 microns in diameter and are more

that 90% carbonized.

CARBONIZING: A chemical process for eliminating cellulosic material from wool or other

animal fibers. The material is reacted with sulfuric acid or hydrogen chloride gas followed by

heating. When the material is dry, the carbonized cellulose material is dust-like and can be

removed.

CARBOXYL END GROUP: The chain-terminating (-COOH) group found in polyamide and

polyester polymers.

CARBOXYMETHYL CELLULOSE: An acid ether derivative of cellulose formed by the

reaction of alkali cellulose with chloroacetic acid. The sodium salt of this compound is

commonly used as a stabilizer or an emulsifier.

CARD: A machine used in the manufacture of staple yards. Its functions are to separate, align,

and deliver the fibers in a sliver form and to remove impurities. The machine consists of a series

of rolls, the surfaces of which are covered with many projecting wired or metal teeth. Short

staple systems employ flat strips covered with card clothing rather that small rolls.

CARD CLOTHING: The material used to cover the working surfaces of the card, i.e., cylinder

and rolls or flats. The clothing consists of either wire teeth set in a foundation fabric or rubber, or

narrow serrated metal flutes which are spirally arranged around the roll. The metallic wire has

the appearance of band-saw blade.

CARDED YARN: A cotton yarn that has been carded but not combed. Carded yarns contain a

wider range of fiber lengths and, as a result, are not as uniform or as strong as combed yarns.

They are considerably cheaper and are used in medium and course counts.

CARDIGAN: 1. A modification of the rib-knitting stitch to allow tucking on one (half cardigan)

or both(full cardigan) sets of needles. 2. A sweater that buttons down the front.

CARDING: A process in the manufacture of spun yarns whereby the staple is opened, cleaned,

aligned, and formed into a continuous, untwisted strand called a sliver.

CARE LABEL: The label that gives directions for cleaning, ironing, and otherwise maintaining

a fabric of fiber product.

CARPET BACKING: A primary backing through which the carpet tufts are inserted is always

required for tufted carpets. The backing is usually made of woven jute or nonwoven

manufactured fiber fabrics. A secondary backing, again made of jute or manufactured fibers, is

normally added at the latex backcoating stage. Carpet backings are an important end use for

nonwoven fabrics.

CARPETS: Heavy functional and ornamental floor coverings consisting of pile yarns or fibers

and a backing system. They may be tufted or woven.

 CARPET UNDERLAY: A separate fabric which is used to provide cushioning for carpet.

Carpet underlays are made of hair and jute, sponge rubber, bonded urethane or foamed urethane.

CARRIER: 1. A product added to a dyebath to promote the dyeing of hydrophobic manufactured

fibers and characterized by affinity for, and ability to swell, the fiber. 2. A moving holder for a

package of yarn used on a braiding machine. 3. A term sometimes used to describe the tube or

bobbin on which yarn is wound.

CARRIERLESS DYEING VARIANTS: Polymers that have been modified to increase their

dyeability. Fibers and fabrics made from these polymers can be dyed at the boil without the use

of carriers.

CASHMERE: The extremely soft hair of the Cashmere goat. Cashmere is often blended with

sheep’s wool in fabrics.

CATALYST: A chemical that accelerates a reaction. The catalyst is not part of the reaction but

increases the rate at which it takes place.

CATIONIC DYEABLE VARIANTS: Polymers modified chemically to make them receptive to

cationic dyes.

CAUSTIC SODA: The common name for sodium hydroxide.

CALAVRY TWILL: A pronounced, raised cord on a 63-degree twill weave characterizes this

rugged cloth usually made from wool or wool blend yarns.

CELLOPHANE: A generic term for regenerated cellulose film, which is used primarily for

packaging. The film is transparent and may be dyed in many colors or coated to render it

moisture proof or heat-sealable.

CELLULOSE: A carbohydrate which is the chief component of the cell walls of plants.

Cellulose is found in wood and in cotton, linen, jute, hemp, and all of the bast, leaf, and stem

fibers. It is a basic raw material in the manufacture of rayon, acetate, and triacetate fibers.

CELLULOSIC FIBER: A fiber composed of, or derived from, cellulose. Examples are cotton

(cellulose), rayon (regenerated cellulose), acetate (cellulose acetate), and triacetate (cellulose

triacetate).

CERAMIC FIBER: An aluminum silicate fiber made by heating aluminum fluoride at 1000-

1200°C with silica and water vapor. The crystals, or “whiskers,” obtained are up to 1 cm long

and have high strength. Ceramic fibers are used in reinforced plastics.

CHAFED END: A warp end that has been abraded during processing. It generally appears as a

dull yarn often containing broken filaments.

CHAFER FABRIC: A fabric, coated with unvulcanized rubber, that is wrapped around the bead

section of the tire before vulcanization of the complete tire. The purpose of the chafer fabric is to

maintain an abrasion-resistant later of rubber in contact with the wheel on which the tire is

mounted.

CHAIN BINDERS: Yarns running in the warp direction on the back of a woven carpet which

hold construction yarns together

CHALLIS: A very soft, lightweight, plain-weave fabric, usually printed with a delicate floral

pattern. The name is derived from the Anglo-Indian term “shalee” meaning soft.

CHANGE INLINGTH ON UNTWISTING: The increase or decrease in length measured when

a specimen is untwisted. The change is expressed as the percentage extension or contraction of

the nominal gauge length of the specimen, i.e., specimen length prior to untwisting.

CHAR LENGTH: In flammability testing, the distance from the edge of the sample exposed to

the flame to the upper edge of the charred or void area.

CHEESE: A cylindrical package of yarn wound on a flangeless tube.

CHEESECLOTH: A low-count, plain weave, soft cotton or cotton blend cloth also known as

gauze.

CHEMICAL CRIMPING: A crinkled or puckered effect in fabric obtained by printing sodium

hydroxide onto the goods in a planned design. When the material is washed, the part to which the

paste has been applied will shrink and cause untreated areas to pucker. The same effect is

obtained with a caustic resist print and a sodium hydroxide bath

CHEMICAL FINISHING: Processes in which additives are applied to change the aesthetic and

functional properties of a material. Examples are the application of antioxidants, flameretardant,

wetting agents, and stain and water repellents.

CHEMICAL STABILITY: Degree of resistance of a material to chemicals, such as acids, bases,

solvents, oils, and oxidizing agents, and to chemical reactions, including those catalyzed by light.

CHENILLE: 1. A yarn with a fuzzy pile protruding from all sides, cut from a woven chenille

weft fabric. Chenille yarns are made from all fibers, and they are used as filling in fabrics and for

embroidery, fringes, and tassels. 2. Fabric woven with chenille yarn.

CHEVIOT: A rugged tweed made from uneven yarn, this fabric usually has a rather harsh hand.

CHEVRON: A broad term applied to prints in zigzag stripes or to herringbone weaves.

CHIFFON: A plain weave, lightweight, sheer, transparent fabric made from fine, highly twisted

yarns. It is usually a square fabric, i.e., having approximately the same number of ends and picks

and the same count in both warp and filling.

CHINCHILLA CLOTH: A heavy, twill weave, filling-pile fabric with a napped surface that is

rolled into little tufts or nubs. The material is frequently double faced with a knitted or woven,

plain or fancy back. Chinchilla cloth is used primarily in coats. The term is also used to refer to

a knitted woolen fabric having a napped surface.

CHINO: A cotton or cotton blend twill used by armies throughout the world for summer-weight

uniforms. Chino is frequently dyed khaki.

CHINTZ: A glazed fabric produced by friction calendering. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne.

CHIP: 1. The form of polymer feedstock used in fiber production. 2. The

feedstock for a pulp digestor. 3. A defect in a nonwoven fabric.

CHLORINE RETENTION: A characteristic of several resins and textile finishes whereby they

retain some of the chlorine from bleach. On heating of the goods, the chlorine forms

hydrochloric acid, causing tendering of the cloth. This is especially true of certain wrinkle

resistant finishes for cotton and rayon.

CHOKED FLYERS: A situation in which roving will not pass through the flyer channels

because of heavy or cockled conditions caused by such factors as uneven drafting, waste, overcut

fibers, and improper finish.

CHUTE-FEED SYSTEM: Pneumatic fiber transport system used in linking textile processing

equipment or operations, especially opening, blending, and carding.

DAMASK: A firm, glossy, Jacquard-patterned fabric that may be made from linen, cotton, rayon, silk, or a combination of these with various manufactured fibers. Similar to brocade, but flatter and reversible, damask is used for napkins, tablecloths, draperies, and upholstery.

DAMPENING (IN TIRE CORD): The relative ability to absorb energy and deaden oscillation after excitation.

DECATING MARK: A crease mark or impression extending fillingwise across the fabric near the beginning or end of the piece.

DECATIZING: A finishing process in which fabric, wound tightly on a perforated roller, either has hot water circulated through it (wet decatizing), or has steam blown through it (dry decatizing). The process is aimed chiefly at improving the hand and removing wrinkles.

DECITEX: One tenth of a tex.

DECORTICATING: A mechanical process for separating the woody matter from the bast fiber of such plants as ramie and hemp.

DEEP-DYEING VARIANTS: Polymers that have been chemically modified to increase their dyeability. Fibers and fabrics made therefrom can be dyed to very heavy depth.

DEFECTS: A general term that refers to some flaw in a textile product that detracts from either performance or appearance properties.

DEFORMATION: A change in the shape of a specimen, e.g., an increase in length produced as

the result of the application of a tensile load or force. Deformation may be immediate or delayed,

and the latter may be recoverable or nonrecoverable.

DEGRADATION: The loss of desirable physical properties by a textile material as a result of

some process or physical/chemical phenomenon.

DEGREE OF ESTERIFICATION: The extent to which the acid groups of terephthalic and/or

other acids have reacted with diols to form ester groups in polyester polymer production.

DEGREE OF POLYMERIZATION: Refers to the number of monomer units in an average

polymer. It can be controlled during processing and affects the properties of the end product.

DEGUMMING: The removal of gum from silk by boiling in a mildly alkaline solution. Usually

accomplished on the knit or woven fabric.

DELAYED DEFORMATION: Deformation that is time-dependent and is exhibited by material

subjected to a continuing load; creep. Delayed deformation may be recoverable following

removal of the applied load.

DELUSTERING: Subduing or dulling the natural luster of a textile material by chemical or

physical means. The term often refers to the use of titanium dioxide or other white pigments as

delustrants in textile materials.

DELUSTRANT: A substance that can be used to dull the luster of a manufactured fiber. Often a

pigment such as titanium dioxide.

DENIER: A weight-per-unit-length measure of any linear material. Officially, it is the number

of unit weights of 0.05 grams per 450-meter length. This is numerically equal to the weight in

grams of 9,000 meters of the material. Denier is a direct numbering system in which the lower

numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers the coarser sizes. In the U.S., the denier

system is used for numbering filament yarns (except glass), manufactured fiber staple (but not

spun yarns), and tow. In most countries outside the U.S., the denier system has been replaced by

the tex system. The following denier terms are in use:

Denier per Filament (dpf): The denier of an individual continuous filament or an individual

staple fiber if it were continuous. In filament yarns, it is the yarn denier divided by the number of

filaments.

Yard Denier: The denier of a filament yarn. It is the product of the denier per filament and the

number of filaments in the yarn.

Total Denier: The denier of a tow before it is crimped. It is the product of the denier per

filament and the number of filaments in the tow. The total denier after crimping (called crimped

total denier) is higher because of the resultant increase in weight per unit length.

DENIER VARIATION: Usually variation in diameter, or other cross-sectional dimension, along

the length of a filament or bundle of filaments. It is caused by malfunction or lack of process

control in fiber manufacturing and degrades resulting fabric appearance or performance.

DENIM: A firm 2 x 1 or 3 x 1 twill-weave fabric, often having a whitish tinge, obtained by using

white filling yarns with colored warp yarns. Heavier weight denims, usually blue or brown, are

used for dungarees, work clothes, and men’s and women’s sportswear. Lighter weight denims

with softer finish are made in a variety of colors and patterns and are used for sportswear and

draperies.

DENSITY: The mass per unit volume (usually expressed as grams per cubic centimeter).

DENT: On a loom, the space between the wires of a reed.

DEREGISTERING (CRIMP): Process of disordering or disaligning the crimp in a tow band to

produce bulk.

DESULFURIZING: An aftertreatment to remove sulfur from newly spun viscose rayon by

passing the yarn through a sodium sulfide solution.

DETERGENT: A synthetic cleaning agent containing surfactants that do not precipitate in hard

water and have the ability to emulsify oil and suspend dirt.

DEVELOPING: A stage in dyeing or printing in which leuco compounds, dyes, or dye

intermediates are converted to the final, stable state or shade.

DEWPOINT: The temperature at which a gas begins to condense as a liquid at a given pressure.

Thus in air, it is the temperature at which the air becomes saturated when cooled with no further

addition of moisture or change in pressure.

DIAL: In a circular-knitting machine, a circular steel plate with radially arranged slots for needles. A knitting machine equipped with both a dial and a cylinder (q.v.) can produce double-knit fabrics.

DIAMINE: A compound with two amino groups. Hexamethylenediamine, one of the intermediates in the manufacture of nylon 66 salt, is an example of this chemical type.

DIELECTRIC BREAKDOWN VOLTAGE: In an electrical insulating material, the voltage at

which electrical breakdown occurs, i.e., the voltage at which current will flow and/or the material

melts.

DIELECTRIC CONSTANT: Measure of the ability of a dielectric material to store electrical

potential energy under the influence of an electric field, measured by the ratio of the capacitance

of a condenser with the material as the dielectric to its capacitance with a vacuum as the

dielectric.

DIELECTRIC STRENGTH: The average voltage gradient at which electrical failure or

breakdown occurs. Expressed in volts per mil.

DIFFERENTIAL THERMAL ANALYSIS: A method of determining the temperature at which

thermal events occur in a material undergoing continuous heating.

DIFFUSION: 1. A more or less gradual movement of molecules or ions through a solution or

fiber as a result of the existence of a concentration gradient or repulsive or attractive forces. 2.

The random movement of gas molecules.

DIMENSIONAL RESTORABILITY: The ability of a fabric to be returned to its original

dimensions after laundering or dry cleaning, expressed in percent. For example, 2% dimensional

restorability means that although a fabric may shrink more than this in washing, it can be restored

to within 2% of its original dimensions by ordinary home pressing methods.

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY: The ability of textile material to maintain or return to its original geometric configuration.

 DIMETHYL TEREPHTHALATE: [p-C6H4(COOCH3)2] An intermediate used in the production of polyethylene terephthalate, the polymer from which polyester fibers and resins are made.

DIMITY: A sheer, thin, spun cloth that sometimes has cords or stripes woven in. It is used for

aprons, pinafores, and many types of dress goods.

DIP: 1. Immersion of a textile material in some processing liquid. The term is usually used in

connection with a padding or slashing process. 2. The rubber compound with which tire cords

and other in-rubber textiles are treated to give improved adhesion to rubber.

DIP PENETRATION: The degree of saturation through a tire cord after impregnation with an adhesive.

DIP PICKUP: The amount of adhesive applied to a tire cord by dipping, expressed as a

percentage of the weight of the cord before dipping.

DIP TREATING: The process of passing fiber, cord, or fabric through an adhesive bath,

followed by drying and heat-treating of the adhesive-coated fiber to obtain better adhesion.

DIRECT ESTERIFICATION: In the production of polyethylene terephthalate, the process in

which ethylene glycol is reacted with terephthalic acid to form bis-â-hydroxyethyl terephthalate

monomer with the generation of water as a by-product.

DIRECTIONALLY ORIENTED FABRICS: Rigid fabric constructions containing inlaid warp

or fill yarns held in place by a warp-knit structure. Used in geotextiles, coated fabrics,

composites, etc.

 DISC TEST: An in-rubber test used to predict the fatigue resistance of tire cords and other

industrial yarns.

DISPERSANT: A dispersing agent, often of a surface active chemical, that promotes formation

of a dispersion or maintains a state of dispersion by preventing settling or aggregation.

DISPERSION: 1. A system consisting of finely divided particles and the medium in which they

are distributed. 2. Separation of light into colors by diffraction or refraction. 3. A qualitative

estimation of the separation and uniform distribution of fibers in the liquid during the production

of a wet-formed nonwoven fabric.

DISTRIBUTION LENGTH: In fibers, a graphic or tabular presentation of the proportion or

percentage (by number or by weight) of fibers having different lengths.

DIVIDED THREADLINE EXTRUSION: Spinning of two separate threadlines from one

spinneret.

DOBBY: 1. A mechanical attachment on a loom. A dobby controls the harnesses to permit the

weaving of geometric figures. 2. A loom equipped with a dobby. 3. A fabric woven on a dobby

loom.

DOCTOR BLADE: A metal knife that cleans or scrapes the excess dye from engraved printing rollers, leaving dye paste only in the valleys of engraved areas. Also used to describe other blades that are used to

apply materials evenly to rollers or fabrics.

DOCTOR STREAK: A defect in printed fabrics consisting of a wavy white or colored streak in the warp direction. It is caused by a damaged or improperly set doctor blade on the printing machine.

DOESKIN FINISH: A soft low nap that is brushed in one direction. Cloth with this type of finish is used on billiard tables and in men’s wear.

DOFF: A set of full bobbins produced by one machine (a roving frame, a spinning frame, or a

manufactured filament-yarn extrusion machine).

DOFFER: 1. The last or delivery cylinder of the card from which the sheet of fibers is removed

by the doffer comb. 2. An operator who removes full bobbins, spools, containers, or other

packages from a machine and replaces them with empty ones.

DOFFER COMB: A reciprocating comb, the teeth of which oscillate close to the card clothing

of the doffer to strip the web of fibers from the card.

DOFFER LOADING: Fibers imbedded so deeply into the doffer wire clothing that the doffer

comb cannot dislodge them to form a traveling web.

DOFFING: The operation of removing full packages, bobbins, spools, roving cans, caps, etc.,

from a machine and replacing them with empty ones.

DONEGAL: A tweed fabric with colorful slubs woven in, donegal is used for suits and coats.

DOTTED SWISS: A sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with small dot motif, dotted swiss is

used for dress goods, curtains, baby clothes, etc.

DOUBLE BACK: A secondary backing glued to the back of carpet, usually to increase

dimensional stability.

DOUBLE-CLOTH CONSTRUCTION: Two fabrics are woven in the loom at the same time,

one fabric on top of the other, with binder threads holding the two fabrics together. The weave on

the two fabrics can be different.

DOUBLE END: Two ends woven as one in a fabric. A double end may be intentional for fabric

styling, or accidental, in which case a fabric defect results.

DOUBLE-KNIT FABRIC: A fabric produced on a circular-knitting

machine equipped with two sets of latch needles situated at right angles

to each other (dial and cylinder).

DOUBLE WEAVE: A fabric woven with two systems of warp or filling threads so combined

that only one is visible on either side. Cutting the yarns that hold the two cloths together yields

two separate cutpile fabrics.

DOUBLING: 1. A process for combining several strands of sliver, roving, or yarn in yarn

manufacturing. 2. The process of twisting together two or more singles or plied yarns, i.e.,

plying. 3. A British term for twisting. 4. The term doubling is sometimes used in a sense

opposite to singling. This is unintentional plying. 5. A yarn, considerably heavier that normal,

produced by a broken end becoming attached to and twisting into another end.

DOUPPIONI: A rough or irregular yarn made of silk reeled from double or triple cocoons.

Fabrics of douppioni have an irregular appearance with long, thin slubs. Douppioni-like yarns are

now being spun from polyester and/or rayon staple.

DOWNDRAFT METIER: A dry-spinning machine in which the airflow within the drying

cabinet is in the same direction as the yarn path (downward).

DOWNGRADE: In quality control, the lowering of the grade and/or value of a product due to

the presence of defects.

DOWNTWISTER: A cap, ring, or flyer twisting frame.

DOWNTWISTING: A process for inserting twist into yarn in which the yarn passes downward

from the supply package (a bobbin, cheese, or cone) to the revolving spindle. The package or

packages of yarn to be twisted are positioned on the creel, and the ends of yarn are led downward

through individual guides and stop motions to the positively driven feed roll and from there to the

revolving take-up package or bobbin, which inserts twist.

DOWTHERM®: Trademark of Dow Chemical Company for a series of heat transfer media.

Dowtherm jackets are used around molten polymer processing lines.

DRAFT: In weaving, a pattern or plan for drawing-in.

 DRAFT RATIO: The ratio between the weight or length of fiber fed into various machines and

that delivered from the machines in spun yarn manufacture. It represents the reduction in bulk

and weight of stock, one of the most important principles in the production of yarn from staple

fibers.

 DRAPE: A term to describe the way a fabric falls while it hangs; the suppleness and ability of a

fabric to form graceful configurations.

DRAW-BACK: A crossed end; an end broken during warping that when repaired was not free or

was tied in with an adjacent end or ends overlapping the broken end. The end draws or pulls back

when unwound on the slasher.

 DRAW DOWN: The amount by which manufactured filaments are stretched following

extrusion.

 DRAW-FRAME BLENDS: Blends of fibers made at the draw frame by feeding in ends of

appropriate card sliver. This method is used when blend uniformity is not a critical factor.

DRAWING: 1. The process of attenuating or increasing the length per unit weight of laps, slivers,

slubbings, or rovings. 2. The hot or cold stretching of continuous filament yarn or tow to align and arrange

the crystalline structure of the molecules to achieve improved tensile properties.

DRAWING-IN: In weaving, the process of threading warp ends through the eyes of the heddles and the

dents of the reed.

DRAWN TOW: A zero-twist bundle of continuous filaments that has been stretched to achieve

molecular orientation. (Tows for staple and spun yarn application are usually crimped.)

Drawing Sliver

DRAW RATIO: The ratio of final to original length per unit weight of yarn, laps, slivers,

slubbings, rovings, etc., resulting from drawing.

 DRAW-SIZING: A system linking drawwarping and sizing in a continuous process.A typical system includes the following elements: (1) creel, (2) eyelet board, (3) warp-draw machine, (4) intermingler, (5)

tension compensator and break monitor, (6) sizing bath, (7) dryers, (8) waxing and winding units.

DRAW-TEXTURING: In the manufacture of thermoplastic fibers, the simultaneous process of

drawing to increase molecular orientation and imparting crimp to increase bulk.

DRAW-TWISTING: The operation of stretching continuous filament yarn to align and order the

molecular and crystalline structure in which the yarn is taken up by means of a ring-and-traveler

device that inserts a small amount of twist (usually ¼ to ½ turn per inch) into the drawn yarn.

DRAW-WARPING: A process in which a number of threadlines, usually 800 to 2000 ends of POY feedstock, are oriented under essentially equal mechanical and thermal conditions by a stretching stage using variable speed rolls, then directly wound onto the beam. This process gives uniform end-to-end properties.

DRAW-WINDING: The operation of stretching continuous filament yarn to align or order

molecular and crystalline structure. The drawn yarn is taken up on a parallel tub or cheese,

resulting in a zero-twist yarn.

DRILL: A strong denim-like material with a diagonal 2 x 1 weave running toward the left

selvage. Drill is often called khaki when it is dyed that color.

DROPPED STITCHES: A defect in knit cloth characterized by recurrent cuts in one or more

wales of a length of cloth.

DROP STITCH: 1. An open design made in knitting by removing some of the needles at set

intervals. 2. A defect in knit fabric.

DROP WIRES: A stop-motion device utilizing metal wires suspended from warp or creeled

yarns. When a yarn breaks, the wire drops, activation the switch that stops the machine.

DRY CLEANING: Removing dirt and stains from fabrics or garments by processing in organic

solvents (chlorinated hydrocarbons or mineral spirits).

DRY FILLING: The application of finishing chemicals to dry fabric, usually by padding.

DRY FORMING: The production of fiber webs by methods that do not use water or other

liquids, i.e., air-laying or carding.

DRYING CYLINDERS: Any of a number of heated revolving cylinders for drying fabric or

yarn. They are arranged either vertically or horizontally in sets, with the number varying

according to the material to be dried. They are often internally heated with steam and Tefloncoated

to prevent sticking.

DRY-LAID NONWOVENS: Nonwoven web made from dry fiber. Usually refers to fabrics

from carded webs versus air-laid nonwovens which are formed from random webs.

DUCK: A compact, firm, heavy, plain weave fabric with a weigh of 6 to 50 ounces per square

yard. Plied yarn duck has plied yarn in both warp and filling. Flat duck has a warp of two single

yarns woven as one and a filling of either single or plied yarn.

DULL: A term applied to manufactured fibers that have been chemically or physically modified

to reduce their normal luster. Matte; opposite of bright; low in luster.

DUMBELLS: A defect frequently seen in wet-formed nonwoven fabrics; an unusually long fiber

will become entangled with groups of regular-length fibers at each end, thus producing a

dumbbell-shaped clump.

DUNGAREE: A term describing a coarse denim-type fabric, usually dyed blue, that is used for

work overalls.

DURABILITY: A relative term for the resistance of a material to loss of physical properties or

appearance as a result of wear or dynamic operation.

DURABLE PRESS: A term describing a garment that has been treated so that it retains its

smooth appearance, shape, and creases or pleats in laundering. In such garments no ironing is

required, particularly if the garment is tumble-dried. Durable press finishing is accomplished by

several methods; two of the most common are the following: (1) A fabric that contains a

thermoplastic fiber and cotton or rayon may be treated with a special resin that, when cured,

imparts the permanent shape to the cotton or rayon component of the fabric. The resin-treated

fabric may be precured (cured in finishing and subsequently pressed in garment form at a higher

temperature to achieve the permanent shape) or postcured (not cured until the finished garment

has been sewn and pressed into shape). In both cases, the thermoplastic fiber in the garment is set

in the final heat treatment. This fiber, when heat-set, also contributes to the permanence of the

garment shape, but the thermoplastic component of the blend is needed for strength since the

cotton or rayon component is somewhat degraded by the durable-press treatment. (2) Garments

of a fabric containing a sufficient amount of a thermoplastic fiber, such as polyester, nylon, or

acrylic, may be pressed with sufficient pressure and time to achieve a permanent garment shape.

DUST-RESISTANT: A term applied to a fabric that has been tightly woven so that it resists dust

penetration.

DWELL TIME: The time during a process in which a particular substance remains in one

location (e.g., the time during which molten polymer remains in a spinning pack.)

DYE FLECK: 1. An imperfection in fabric caused by residual undissolved dye. 2. A defect

caused by small sections of undrawn thermoplastic yarn that dye deeper that the drawn yarn.

DYEING: A process of coloring fibers, yarns, or fabrics with either natural or synthetic dyes.

Some of the major dyeing processes are described below:

Batik: A resist-dyeing process in which portions of a fabric are coated with wax; during the

dyeing process, only the uncovered areas take up dye. The process can be repeated so that

several colors are used. Batik dyeing is often imitated in machine printing.

Chain Dyeing: A method of dyeing yarns and fabrics of low tensile strength of tying them endto-

end and running them through the dyebath in a continuous process.

Cross Dyeing: A method of dyeing blend or combination fabrics to two or more shades by the

use of dyes with different affinities for the different fibers.

High-Temperature Dyeing: A dyeing operation in which the aqueous dyebaths are maintained

at temperatures greater than 100°C by use of pressurized equipment. Used for many

manufactured fibers.

Ingrain: Term used to describe yarn or stock that is dyed in two or more shades prior to knitting

or weaving to create blended color effects in fabrics.

Jet Dyeing: High temperature piece dyeing in which the dye liquor is circulated via a Venturi jet

thus providing the driving force to move the loop of fabric.

Mass-Colored: A term to describe a manufactured fiber (yarn, staple, or tow) that has been colored by the introduction of pigments or insoluble dyes into the polymer melt or spinning solution prior to extrusion. Usually, the colors are fast to most destructive agents.

Muff Dyeing: A form of yarn dyeing in which the cone has been removed.

Pad Dyeing: A form of dyeing whereby a dye solution is applied by means

of a padder or mangle.

Piece Dyeing: The dyeing of fabrics “in the piece,” i.e., in fabric form after weaving or knitting as opposed to dyeing in the form of yarn or stock.

Pressure Dyeing: Dyeing by means of forced circulation of dye through packages of fiber, yarn, or fabric under superatmospheric pressure.

Reserve Dyeing: 1. A method of dyeing in which one component of a blend or combination fabric is left undyed. The objective is accomplished by the use of dyes that have affinity for the fiber to be colored but not for the fiber to be reserved. 2. A method of treating yarn or fabric so that in the subsequent dyeing operation the treated portion will not be dyed.

Short-Liquor Dyeing: A term used to describe any yarn or piece dyeing in which the liquor ration has been significantly reduced. The technique was designed to save water and energy.

Skein Dyeing: The dyeing of yarn in the form of skeins, or hanks.

Solvent Dyeing: A dyeing method based on solubility of a dye in some liquid other than water, although water may be present in the dyebath.

Space Dyeing: A yarn-dyeing process in which each strand is dyed with more that one color at irregular intervals. Space dyeing produces an effect of unorganized design in subsequent fabric form. The two primary methods are knit-de-knit and warp printing.

Thermal Fixation: A process for dyeing polyester whereby the color is diffused into the fiber by means of dry heat.

Union Dyeing: A method of dyeing a fabric containing two or more fibers or yarns to the same

shade so as to achieve the appearance of a solid colored fabric.

Yarn Dyeing: The dyeing of yarn before the fabric is woven or knit. Yarn can be dyed in the

form of skeins, muff, packages, cheeses, cakes, chain-wraps, and beams.

DYEING AUXILLARIES: Various substances that can be added to the dyebath to aid dyeing.

They may necessary to transfer the dye from the bath to the fiber or they may provide

improvements in leveling, penetration, etc. Also call dyeing assistants.

DYE RANGE: A broad term referring to the collection of dye and chemical baths, drying

equipment, etc., in a continuous-dyeing line.

DYES: Substances that add color to textiles. They are incorporated into the fiber by chemical

reaction, absorption, or dispersion. Dyes differ in their resistance to sunlight, perspiration,

washing, gas, alkalies, and other agents; their affinity for different fibers; their reaction to

cleaning agents and methods; and their solubility and method of application. Various classes and

types are listed below.

 Acid Dyes: A class of dyes used on wool, other animal fibers, and some manufactured fibers.

Acid dyes are seldom used on cotton or linen since this process requires a mordant. Acid dyes

are widely used on nylon when high washfastness is required. In some cases, even higher

washfastness can be obtained by aftertreatment with fixatives.

Aniline Dyes: Dyes derived chemically from aniline or other coal tar derivatives.

Anthraquinone Dyes: Dyes that have anthraquinone as their base and the carbonyl group

(>C=O) as the chromophore. Anthraquinone-based dyes are found in most of the synthetic dye

classes.

Azo Dyes: Dyes characterized by the presence of an azo group (-N=N-) as the chromophore.

Azo dyes are found in many of the synthetic dye classes.

 Basic Dyes: A class of positive-ion-carrying dyes known for their brilliant hues. Basic dyes are

composed of large-molecule, water-soluble salts that have a direct affinity for wool and silk and

can be applied to cotton with a mordant. The fastness of basic dyes on these fibers is very poor.

Basic dyes are also used on basic-dyeable acrylics, modacrylics, nylons, and polyesters, on which

they exhibit reasonably good fastness.

Developed Dyes: Dyes that are formed by the use of a developer. The substrate is first dyed in a

neutral solution with a dye base, usually colorless. The dye is then diazotized with sodium nitrate

and an acid and afterwards treated with a solution of B-naphthol, or a similar substance, which is

the developer. Direct dyes are developed to produce a different shade or to improve washfastness

or lightfastness.

Direct Dyes: A class of dyestuffs that are applied directly to the substrate in a neutral or alkaline

bath. They produce full shades on cotton and linen without mordanting and can also be applied to

rayon, silk, and wool. Direct dyes give bright shades but exhibit poor washfastness. Various

aftertreatments are used to improve the washfastness of direct dyes, and such dyes are referred to

as “aftertreated direct colors.”

Disperse Dyes: A class of slightly water-soluble dyes originally introduced for dyeing acetate

and usually applied from fine aqueous suspensions. Disperse dyes are widely used for dyeing

most of the manufactured fibers.

Fiber-Reactive Dyes: A type of water-soluble anionic dye having affinity for cellulose fibers. In

the presence of alkali, they react with hydroxyl groups in the cellulose and thus are liked with the

fiber. Fiber-reactive dyes are relatively new dyes and are used extensively on cellulosics when

bright shades are desired.

Gel Dyeing: Passing a wet-spun fiber that is in the gel state (not yet at full crystallinity or

orientation) through a dyebath containing dye with affinity for the fiber. This process provides

good accessibility of the dye sites.

Macromolecular Dyes: A group of inherently colored polymers. They are useful both as

polymers and as dyes with high color yield. The chromophores fit the recognized CI classes, i.e.,

azo, anthraquinone, etc., although not all CI classes are represented. Used for mass dyeing, hair

dyes, writing inks, etc.

Metallized Dyes: A class of dyes that have metals in their molecular structure. They are applied

from an acid bath.

Naphthol Dyes: A type of azo compound formed on the fiber by first treating the fiber with a

phenolic compound. The fiber is then immersed in a second solution containing a diazonuim salt

that reacts with the phenilic compound to produce a colored azo compound. Since the phenolic

compound is dissolved in caustic solution, these dyes are mainly used for cellulose fiber, although

other fibers can be dyed by modifying the process.

Premetallized Dyes: Acid dyes that are treated with coordinating metals such as chromium. This

type of dye has much better wetfastness than regular acid dye. Premetallized dyes are used on

nylon, silk, and wool.

Sulfur Dyes: A class of water-insoluble dyes that are applied in a soluble, reduced form from a

sodium sulfide solution and are then reoxidized to the insoluble form on the fiber. Sulfur dyes are

mainly used on cotton for economical dark shades of moderate to good fastness to washing and

light. They generally give very poor fastness to chlorine.

Vat Dyes: A class of water-insoluble dyes which are applied to the fiber in a reduced, soluble

form (leuco compound) and then reoxidized to the original insoluble form. Vat dyes are among

the most resistant dyes to both washing and sunlight. They are widely used on cotton, linen

rayon, and other cellulosic fibers.

DYE SITES: Functional groups within a fiber that provide sites for chemical bonding with the

dye molecule. Dye sites may be either in the polymer chain or in chemical additives included in

the fiber

 DYNAMIC ADHESION: The ability of a cord-to-rubber bond to resist degradation resulting

from flexure.

DYNAPOINT PROCESS: A continuous computer-controlled process for manufacturing tufted

carpets with intricate patterns from undyed yarn. The carpet is dyed as it is tufted and the colors

and pattern are clearly visible through the primary backing of the carpet.

EASE-OF-CARE: A term used to characterize fabrics that, after laundering, can be restored to

their original appearance with a minimum of ironing or other treatment. An ease-of-care fabric

generally wrinkles only slightly upon laundering.

 EDGE ROLL: The curl that develops on the edge of a single-knit fabric preventing it from lying

flat.

ELASTICITY: The ability of a strained material to recover its original size and shape

immediately after removal of the stress that causes deformation.

ELASTICIZED FABRIC: A fabric that contains elastic threads. Such fabrics are used for

girdles, garters, and similar items.

ELASTIC LIMIT: In strength and stretch testing, the load below which the specimen shows

elasticity and above which it shows permanent deformation.

 ELASTIC RECOVERY: The degree to which fibers, yarn, or cord returns to its original size

and shape after deformation from stress.

ELASTOMERS: Synthetic polymers having properties of natural rubber such as high

stretchability and recovery.

ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY: 1. A measure of the ease of transporting electric charge

from one point to another in an electric field. 2. The reciprocal of resistivity.

ELECTRICAL FINISH: A finish designed to increase or maintain electrical resistivity of a

textile material.

ELECTRICAL RESISTIVITY: The resistance of longitudinal electrical flow through a

uniform rod of unit length and unit cross-sectional area.

ELMENDORF TEAR TESTER: A tester designer to determine the tearing strength of paper. It

is also used to measure the tearing strength of very lightweight fabrics and resin-finished apparel

fabrics. A trapezoidal fabric sample is employed.

ELONGATION: The deformation in the direction of load caused by a tensile force. Elongation

is measured in units of length (e.g., millimeters, inches) or calculated as a percentage of the

original specimen length. Elongation may be measured at any specified load or at the breaking

load.

ELONGATION AT BREAK: The increase in length when the last component of the specimen

breaks.

EMBOSSING: A calendering process for producing raised or projected figures or designs in

relief on fabric surfaces. Embossed surfaces are usually produced on fabrics by engraved, heated

rollers that give a raised effect. Embossed velvet or plush is made by shearing the pile to

different levels or by pressing part of the pile flat.

EMBROIDERY: Ornamental designs worked on a fabric with threads. Embroidery may be

done either by hand or by machine.

EMULSION: A suspension of finely divided liquid droplets in a second liquid, i.e., oil in water

or vice versa.

EMULSION POLYMERIZATION: A three-phase reaction system consisting of monomer, an

aqueous phase containing the initiator, and colloidal particles of polymer. Polymerization takes

place in the colloidal phase. The process enables the production of very high molecular weights

at increased polymerization rates. Only applicable to addition polymers.

EMULSION SPINNING: The process of spinning synthetic polymers in dispersion form, then

heating to coalesce the dispersed particles. Normally a matrix polymer provides support until

coalescence is completed.

END: 1. An individual warp yarn. A warp is composed of a number of ends. 2. An individual

sliver, slubbing, roving, yarn, thread, or cord. 3. A short length or remnant of fabric.

END OUT: A void caused by a missing warp yarn.

ENERGY ABSORPTION: The energy required to break or elongate a fiber to a certain point.

ENERGY-TO-BREAK: The total energy required to rupture a yarn or cord.

ENTANGLING: 1. A method of forming a fabric by wrapping and knotting fibers in a web

about each other, by mechanical means, or by the use of jets of pressurized water, so as to bond

the fibers.

ENTERING: The process of threading each warp yarn on a loom beam through a separate drop

wire, heddle, and reed space in preparation for weaving. This process may be done by hand or by

a semiautomatic machine.

EPITROPIC FIBERS: Fibers with an altered surface property, e.g., electrically conducting,

abrasive, etc.

EPOXY RESIN: In textiles, a compound used in durable-press applications for white fabrics. It

provides chlorine resistance but causes loss of tensile strength.

 ESTERIFICATION: The chemical process of combining an acid and an alcohol to form an

ester. Cellulose acetate is an ester formed by the reaction of acetic acid and the hydroxyl groups

of cellulose. Polyethylene terephthalate, the most common fiber-forming polyester, is a product

of esterification of teraphthalic acid with ethylene glycol.

ETHYLENE: A petroleum derivative (C2H4) that is the raw material for polyethylene.

ETHYLENE GLYCOL: A viscous, sweet, colorless liquid, (CH2OHCH2OH). Principal uses

are as an intermediate in the manufacture of polyester fibers and as automobile antifreeze.

EVENNESS TESTING: Determination of the variation in weight per unit length and thickness

of yarns or fibers aggregates such as roving, sliver, or top.

EXCESSIVE CLEARER WASTE: A higher that normal amount of short and regular fibers that

become attached to the drafting rolls and are transferred to the clearer brushes to accumulate in

abnormal amounts until they are removed manually.

EXHAUSTION: During wet processing, the ratio at any time between the amount of dye or

substance taken up by the substrate and the amount originally available.

EXTENDED LENGTH: The length of a face pile yarn required to produce one inch of tufted

Carpet.

EXTRACTABLES: The material that can be removed from textiles by means of a solvent (in

many cases, water).

EXTRACTION: Removal of one substance from another, often accomplished by means of a

solvent.

 EXTRUDER: 1. Generally a machine in which molten or semisoft materials are forced under

pressure through a die to form continuous tubes, sheets, or fibers. It may consist of a barrel,

heating elements, a screw, ram or plunger, and a die through which the material is pushed to give

it shape. 2. In fiber manufacture the machine that feeds molten polymer to an extrusion manifold

or that first melts the polymer in a uniform manner then feeds it to a manifold and associateD

equipment for extrusion.

 EYELET: 1. A series of small holes made to receive a string or tape. A buttonhole stitch is

worked around the holes. 2. A type of yarn guide used on a creel. 3. A fabric style with areas of

cut-outs surrounded by stitching.

FABRIC: A planar textile structure produces by interlacing yarns, fibers, or filaments.

FABRIC CONSTRUCTION: The details of structure of fabric. Includes such information as

style, width, type of knit of weave, threads per inch in warp and fill, and weight of goods.

FABRIC CRIMP: The angulation induced between a yarn and

woven fabric via the weaving or braiding process.

FABRIC CRIMP ANGLE: The maximum acute angle of a single

weaving yarn’s direction measured from a plane parallel to the

surface of the fabric.

FABRIC SETT: The number of warp threads per inch, or other convenient unit.

FABRIC STABILIZER: Resin or latex treatment for scrims used in coated fabric manufacture

to stabilize the scrim for further processing.

FACE: The correct or better-looking side of a fabric.

FACING: A lining or trim that protects the edges of a garment especially at collars, cuffs, and

front closings.

FACONNÉ: A broad term for fabrics with a fancy-type weave made on a Jacquard or dobby

loom.

FADE-OMETER®: Laboratory device used to determine the fastness of a colored fabric to

exposure to light. The test pieces are rotated around a light source simulating the sun’s rays at

45° N latitude in July between the hours of 9 a.m. and 3 p.m. Fabrics are rated by visual

comparison with a gray scale according to degree of fading.

FAILLE: A soft, slightly glossy woven fabric made of silk, rayon, cotton, wool, or manufactured

fibers or combinations of these fibers and having a light, flat crossgrain rib or cord made by using

heavier yarns in the filling than in the warp.

FASCIATED YARN: Yarns consisting of a core of discontinuous fibers with little or no twist

and surface fibers wrapped around the core bundle.

FASHIONING: The process of shaping a fabric during knitting by increasing or decreasing the

number of needles in action. Fashioning is used in manufacturing hosiery, underwear, and

sweaters.

FATIGUE: Refers to the resistance of a material to weakening or failure during alternate

tension-compression cycles, i.e., in stretch yarns, the loss of ability to recover after having been

stretched.

FELL: 1. The end of a piece of fabric that is woven last. 2. In weaving, the last filling pick laid

in the fabric at any time.

FELT: 1. A nonwoven sheet of matted material of wool, hair, or fur, sometimes in combination

with certain manufactured fibers, made by a combination of mechanical and chemical action,

pressure, moisture, and heat. 2. A woven fabric generally made from wool, but occasionally from

cotton or certain manufactured fibers, that is heavily shrunk and fulled, making it almost

impossible to distinguish the weave.

FELTING: 1. The process of exposing wool fibers alone or in combination with other fibers to

mechanical and chemical action, pressure, moisture, and heat so that they tangle, shrink, and mat

to form a compact material. Felting is generally carried out in a fulling mill.

FESTOON DRYER: A dryer in which cloth is suspended in loops over a series of supporting horizontal poles and carried through the heated chamber in this configuration.

FIBER: A unit of matter, either natural or manufactured, that forms the basic element of fabrics and other textile structures. A fiber is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width. The term refers to units that can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by various methods including weaving,  knitting, braiding, felting, and twisting. The essential requirements for fibers to be spun into yarn include a length of at least 5 millimeters, flexibility, cohesiveness, and sufficient strength. Other important properties include elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability, and luster.

FIBER ARCHITECTURE: The spatial arrangement of fibers in the preform. Each architecture

has a definite repeating unit.

FIBER DISTRIBUTION: In a web, the orientation (random or parallel) of fibers and the

uniformity of their arrangement.

FIBERFILL: Manufactured fibers that have been specially engineered for use as filling material

for pillows, mattress pads, comforters, sleeping bags, quilted outerwear, etc. Polyester fibers are

widely used.

FIBER NUMBER: The linear density of a fiber expressed in units such as denier.

FIBER PLACEMENT: In general, refers to how the piles are laid into their orientation, i.e., by

hand, by a textile process, by a tape layer, or by a filament winder. Tolerances and angles are

specified. Microprocessor-controlled placement that gives precise control of each axis of motion

permits more intricate winding patterns than are possible with conventional winding and is used

to make composites that are more complex that usual filament-wound structures.

FIBRETS: Very short (1mm), fine (diameter 50) fibrillated fibers that are highly branched

and irregular resulting in very high surface area. Fibrets can be produced from a number of

substances including acetate, polyester, nylon, and polyolefins. By selection of polymer type and

incorporation of additives, they can be engineered to meet a range of specialized requirements.

FIBRIDS: Short, irregular fibrous products, made by mixing a dilute polymer solution with a

nonsolvent with agitation. They can also be made by flash spinning and breaking up the resulting

filaments. Used in felts, in papermaking, for filtration product, etc.

FIBRIL: A tiny threadlike element of a synthetic or natural fiber.

FIBRILLATION: The act or process of forming fibrils. The act of breaking up a fiber, plastic

sheet, or similar material into the minute fibrous elements from which the main structure is

formed.

FILAMENT: A fiber of an indefinite or extreme length such as found naturally in silk.

Manufactured fibers are extruded into filaments that are converted into filament yarn, staple, or

tow.

FILAMENT COUNT: The number of individual filaments that make up a thread or yarn.

FILAMENT NUMBER: The linear density of a filament expressed in units such as denier or

tex.

FILAMENT WINDING: In the fabrication of composites, the process of placing reinforcing

fibers over a rotating form, (mandrel) to make the product shape. Prepreg fibers or dry fibers that

are treated in a resin bath immediately prior to winding may be used. The wound form can be

cured or consolidated after the fiber winding is complete to product specifications.

FILAMENT YARN: A yarn composed of continuous filaments assembled with or without twist.

FILLER: A nonfibrous material added to a fabric to increase its weight or to modify its

appearance or hand. Also referred to as back-sizing. Examples of fillers are insoluble clays or

gypsum, starches, and gums.

FILLET: A long, narrow strip of wire card clothing with which the doffer and cylinder of the

card are spirally wrapped.

FILLING: In a woven fabric, the yarn running from selvage to selvage at right angles to the

warp. Each crosswise length is called a pick. In the weaving process, the filling yarn is carried

by the shuttle or other type of yarn carrier.

FILTER AID: A powder added to a solution to be filtered that forms a porous bed to improve

filtration.

FILTER CLOTH: Any cloth used for filtering purposed. Nylon, polyester, vinyon, PBI, and

glass fibers are often used in such fabrics because they are not affected by most chemicals.

FINDINGS: 1. Miscellaneous items attached to garments and shoes during manufacture.

Included are buttons, hooks, snaps, and ornaments. 2. Miscellaneous fabrics in garments such a

zipper tapes, linings, pockets, waistbands, and facings.

FINE END: 1. A warp yarn of smaller diameter than that normally used in the fabric. 2. A term

for a defect in silk warp yarn consisting of thin places that occur when all the filaments required

to make up the full ply are not present. This condition is generally caused by poor reeling.

FINENESS: 1. A relative measure of fiber size expressed in denier or tex for manufactured

fibers. For cotton, fineness is expressed as the mean fiber weight in micrograms per inch. For

wool, fineness is the mean fiber width or mean fiber diameter expressed in microns (to the nearest

0.001-millimeter). 2. For yarn fineness 3. For fineness of knit fabrics.

FINES: Particles or dust of polymer formed during the process of cutting to produce chip.

FINE STRUCTURE: Orientation, crystallinity, and molecular morphology of polymers,

including fiber-forming polymers.

FINGER MARK: A defect of woven fabrics that is seen as an irregular spot showing variation

in picks per inch for a limited width. Causes are spreading of warp ends while the loom is in

motion and pressure on the fabric between the reed and take-up drum.

FINISH: 1. A substance or mixture of substances added to textile materials to impart desired

properties. 2. A process, physical or chemical, performed on textile materials to produce a

desired effect. 3. A property, such as smoothness, drape, luster, water repellency, flame

retardancy, or crease resistance that is produced by 1 and/or 2 above. 4. The state of a textile

material as it leaves a process.

FINISH COMPOSITION (YARD): Physical and chemical analysis of the lubricant applied to

yarns to reduce friction and improve processibility.

FINISHED FABRIC: Fabric that is ready for the market, having passed through the necessary

finishing processes.

FINISHING: All the processes through which fabric is passed after bleaching, dyeing, or

printing in preparation for the market or use. Finishing includes such operations as heat-setting,

napping, embossing, pressing, calendering, and the application of chemicals that change the

character of the fabric. The term finishing is also sometimes used to refer collectively to all

processing operations above, including bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.

FINISHING BAR: A noticeable streak across the entire width of a fabric, usually caused by

machine stoppage during processing.

FINISHING SPOT: A discolored area on a fabric caused by foreign material such as dirt,

grease, or rust.

FINISH TURNS: The actual degree of twist in the final

yarn product.

FIRE-BLOCKING LAYER: A fabric layer composed of

fibers with flame-retardant properties used in aircraft seat

cushions and other upholstery constructions to decrease the

overall flammability of the total construction by preventing

access of flame to the body of the construction.

FIRST-ORDER TRANSITION TEMPERATURE: The temperature at which a polymer

freezes or melts.

FISSURE: A very minute crack or opening in a material that frequently leads to the breaking or

rupture of the material.

FIXATION: The process of setting a dye after dyeing of printing, usually by steaming or other

heat treatment.

FLAKE: As used by Celanese, a term that refers to the granular form in which cellulose acetate

and triacetate polymers exist prior to dissolving or feeding into the extrusion or molding unit.

FLAKE YARN: Yarn in which roving or short, soft staple fibers are inserted at intervals

between long filament binder yarns.

FLAKY WEB: A web at the card that shows thick and thin places, approximately 1 to 6 square

inches in size. This indicates that, instead of a free flow of fibers through the card, either an

uneven amount has been fed into the card, or groups of fibers have hesitated in the card and then

dropped back into production.

FLAME RESISTANT: A term used to describe a material that burns slowly or is selfextinguishing

after removal of an external source of ignition. A fabric or yarn can be flame

resistance because of the innate properties of the fiber, the twist level of the yarn, the fabric

construction, or the presence of flame retardants, or because of a combination of these factors.

FLAME RETARDANT: A chemical compound that can be incorporated into a textile fiber

during manufacture or applied to a fiber, fabric, or other textile item during processing or use to

reduce its flammability.

FLATSPOTTING: A characteristic of certain tire cords. It occurs with all materials but is more

noticeable with nylon cord and is associated with nylon cord by users. Nylon exerts a shrinkage

force as it becomes heated in tire operation. When the tire is stopped under load, the cord in the

road-contact portion of the tire is under less tension than that in other portions of the tire, and it

shrinks to conform to the flat surface of the road. When cooled in this position, the cord

maintains the flat spot until it again reaches its glass transition temperature in use.

FLAX: The plant from which the cellulosic fiber linen is obtained.

FLEECE FABRIC: A fabric with a thick, heavy surface resembling sheep’s wool. It may be a

pile or napped fabric of either woven or knit construction.

FLEXIBILITY: 1. The ability to be flexed or bowed repeatedly without rupturing. 2. A term

relating to the hand of fabric, referring to ease of bending and ranging from pliable (high) to stiff

(low).

FLEXURAL FATIGUE: A physical property expressed by the number of times a material can

be bent on itself through a prescribed angle before it ruptures or loses its ability to recover.

FLEXURAL RIGIDITY: This measure of a material’s resistance to bending is calculated by

multiplying the material’s weight per unit area by the cube of its bending length.

FLOAT: 1. The portion of a warp or filling yarn that extends over two or more adjacent filling

picks or warp ends in weaving for the purpose of forming certain designs. 2. In a knit fabric, a

portion of yarn that extends for some length without being knitted in. 3. A fabric defect

consisting of an end lying or floating on the cloth surface instead of being woven in properly.

Floats are usually caused by slubs, knot-tails, knots, or fly waste, or sometimes by ends being

drawn in heddle eyes incorrectly or being twisted around heddle wires.

 FLOCCULATING: Coagulating or coalescing a material into a small, loosely aggregated mass.

FLOCK: The material obtained by reducing textile fibers to fragments by cutting or grinding.

There are two main types: precision cut flock, where all fiber lengths are approximately equal,

and random cut flock, where the fibers are ground or chopped to produce a broad range of

lengths.

FLOCKING: A method of cloth ornamentation in which adhesive is printed or coated on a

fabric, and finely chopped fibers are applied all over by means of dusting, air-blasting, or

electrostatic attraction. In flock printing, the fibers adhere only to the printed areas and are

removed from the unprinted areas by mechanical action.

FLUFFING: A term describing the appearance of a carpet after loose fiber fragments left during

manufacture have worked their way to the surface. Fluffing is not a defect; it is simply a

characteristic of new carpets that disappears with vacuuming.

FLUORESCENCE: Emission of electromagnetic radiation, usually as visible light, that is

caused by the flow of energy into the emitting body. The emission ceases abruptly when the

excitation ceases.

FLY: The short, waste fibers that are released into the air in textile processing operations such as

picking, carding, spinning, and weaving.

FLYER: 1. A device used to insert twist into slubbing, roving, or yarn, and to serve as a guide for winding it onto a bobbin. The flyer is shaped like an inverted U that fits on the top of the spindle and revolves with it.

One arm of the U is solid and the other is hollow. The yarn enters through the top of the hollow arm, travels downward, and emerges at the bottom where it is wound around a presser finger onto the take-up package.

FLYER SPINNING: A method of spinning by means of a driven flyer. It is used primarily for spinning worsted and coarser yarns.

 FLYER WASTE: During the roving operation, flyer waste refers to fibers that free themselves

by centrifugal force from the regular bulk of roving and accumulate on the flyers and adjacent

machinery.

FOAM: Dispersion of gas in a liquid or solid. The gas bubbles may be any size. The term

covers a wide range of useful products such as insulating foam, cushions, etc. It also describes

the undesirable froth in polymer melts, dyebaths, etc.

FOLDED SELVAGE: A curled selvage.

FOREIGN WASTE: Thread waste or lint that is twisted in the yarn or woven in the fabric. If

such foreign matter is of a different fiber, it may dye differently and thus show plainly.

FORMALDEYDE: A one-carbon aldehyde, (CH2O), it is a colorless, pungent gas at room

temperature. This compound is used primarily for disinfectant and preservative and in

synthesizing other compounds and resins

 FOULARD: A lightweight, lustrous 2/2 twill that is usually printed with small figures on a solid

background, foulard is frequently used in men’s ties. Foulards are made of silk, filament

polyester, acetate, etc.

FRAME: 1. A general term for many machines used in yarn manufacturing such as the drawing

frame, roving frame, and spinning frame.

  FRAYING: The slipping or raveling of yarns from unfinished edges of cloth.

FREE-WHEELING: In reference to rolls, spinning without the application of either driving or

braking force.

FRENCHBACK: A fabric with a corded twill backing of different weave than the face. The

backing, which is frequently of inferior yarn, gives added weight, warmth, and stability to the

cloth.

FREQUENCY: In uniform circular motion or in any periodic motion, the number of revolutions

or cycles completed in unit time.

FRICTION SPINNING: A spinning system in which the yarn receives its twist by being rolled along the

longitudinal axis in the nip between two revolving surfaces. The surfaces may rotate at the same or

different speeds in the same or opposite directions depending on the particular machine design. Potential

advantages include high production capacity, low stress on the fiber in processing, and the capacity to produce very fine counts.

FRIEZÉ: 1. A term applied when the pile of a velvet, plush, velour, or other pile fabric is uncut.

A friezé fabric is sometimes patterned by shearing the loops at different lengths. Friezé fabrics

are widely used for upholstery. 2. A cut-pile carpet made of highly twisted yarns normally plied

and heat-set. A kinked or curled yarn effect is achieved. Excellent durability results from the

hard-twist pile yarns.

 FROST MARKS: A defect of woven fabric consisting of surface highlights that give a frosted

appearance. Frost marks are caused by improper sizing or insufficient warp tension as a result of

uneven bending of some warp ends over the picks.

FULL-FASHIONED: A term applied to fabrics produced on a flat-knitting machine, such as

hosiery, sweater, and underwear, that have been shaped by adding or reducing stitches.

FULLING: A finishing process used in the manufacture of woolen and worsted fabrics. The cloth is subjected to moisture, heat friction, chemicals, and pressure which cause it to mat and shrink appreciably in both the warp and filling directions, resulting in a denser, more compact fabric.

FUSED ACETATE: 1. A hard particle of acetate material of almost any shape or size other than recognizable fiber. Sometimes fused acetate particles resemble rock-like,hardened drops of acetate dope; in other cases fused acetate consists of particles covered with fiber clusters and completely hardened in the center. 2. Acetate yarns in which the individual filaments are coalesced.

FUSED FILAMENTS: A group of filaments bonded together in a tow by drips or frictional

effects and thereby resistant to filament separation and crimp deregistering.

FUSED RIBBON: Acetate fabrics in wide widths may be cut into narrow ones by the application

of heat. A hot knife blade caused the edges to sear and bead, thereby doing away with selvages

on the edges of the goods.

FUSING: 1. Melting. 2. Uniting, as by melting together.

 FUZZINESS: 1. A term describing a woven fabric defect characterized by a hairy appearance

due to broken fibers or filaments. Principle causes are underslashed warp; rough drop wires,

heddles, or reed; fabric slippage on take-up drum; rough shuttles; cut glass, dents, or reeds in

warper; and damage in slashing. 2. A term describing a fabric intentionally made with a hairy

surface; such fabrics are usually produced from spun yarns.

GABARDINE: A firm, durable, warp-faced cloth, showing a decided twill line, usually a 45° or 63° right-hand twill. 

GAITING: The spacing of the needles in the dial and cylinder in relation to each other on rib (double-knit) and interlock knitting machines. In rib gaiting, the dial needles are midway between the cylinder needles. For interlock gaiting the dial and cylinder needles are in direct alignment.

GALATEA: A sturdy, serviceable, warp-effect, five-shaft, left-hand twill-weave fabric, frequently cotton or a cotton blend, used for children’s play clothes.

GAMMA CELLULOSE: One of the three forms of cellulose. With beta cellulose it is called hemicellulose.

GARNETTING: A process for reducing various textile waste materials to fiber by passing them through a machine called a garnett, that is similar to a card.

GAS FADING: A change of shade of dyed fabric caused by chemical reaction between certain disperse dyes and acid gases from fuel combustion, particularly oxides of nitrogen.

GAUGE: 1. A generic term for various measurement instruments such as pressure or thickness gauges. 2. The number of needles per given distance in a knitting machine. 3. The thickness of the knitting needle in the shank and the hook. 4. The number of wales per inch in a knit fabric. 5.

On spinning or twisting frames, the distance from the center of one spindle to the center of the

next spindle in the same row.

GAUGE WIRE: Used with an extra filling yarn during weaving, this type of standing wire

controls the height of fabric pile.

GAUZE: A thin, sheer-woven fabric in which each filling yarn in encircled by two warp yarns twisted around each other, gauze is similar to cheesecloth. It may by made of silk, cotton, wool, or manufactured fibers.

Cotton gauze is primarily for surgical dressings.

GEL: 1. A colloid in which the dispersed particles have combined with the continuous phase to produce a viscous, jelly-like product. 2. Degraded polymer occurring in process lines. Usually .n as specks in polymer or yarn.

.GEOGRID: Manufactured polymer constructions characterized by large openings made by one of the following methods: (1) coating woven or knit products to form a grid; (2) welding oriented strands to form a grid; (3) punching holes in flat sheets then drawing them to align the polymer molecules. Used for soil stabilization, drainage, and erosion control

applications.

GEOTEXTILES: Manufactured fiber products made into fabrics of various constructions for use in a wide variety of civil engineering applications including several described below.

GINGHAM: A woven fabric characterized by a block or check effect produced by weaving in

dyed yarns at fixed intervals in both the warp and the filling.

GLACÉ: A lustrous, glossy effect imparted to fabrics by finishing.

GLASS TRANSITION TEMPERATURE: . SECOND-ORDER TRANSITION

TEMPERATURE.

GLAZING: 1. A finishing process that produces a smooth, highly polished, or lustrous surface

on a fabric such as chintz. The fabric is treated with starch, glue, paraffin, or shellac, then friction

calendered. Synthetic resins are used for a more permanent finish. 2. A shiny fabric appearance

produced unintentionally, e.g., by pressing at excessive temperature.

GLOBAL RADIATION: The wavelength distribution of sunlight under a given environment

(e.g., under windowpane glass).

GODET ROLL: Roll used for transporting and controlling the movement of bundles of fibers

and yarns in the processing of these materials.

.

GOUT: Foreign matter that is accidentally woven into a fabric. It is usually fly or waste that

drops into the loom during weaving or that catches in yarns during spinning.

GRAB STRENGTH TEST: A method for measuring the breaking strength of a fabric sample by

mounting the sample in the tensile tester so that only a part of the width of the specimen is

gripped in the clamps.

GRAM BREAK FACTOR: . BREAK FACTOR.

GRAPHITE FIBER: Although the terms carbon and graphite are used interchangeably to

describe these fibers, graphite fibers are more accurately defined as fibers that are 99+%

carbonized while the term carbon is used for any fiber carbonized to 93 to 95% or more. (.

CARBON FIBER.)

GRAY FABRIC: . GREIGE FABRIC.

GREEN TACK: A term used in fabric bonding for the preliminary bond created in the first stage

of curing by the wet adhesive process. At this point, the bond is not fully cured and hence is

“green.”

GREIGE FABRIC: An unfinished fabric just off the loom or knitting machine.

GRENADINE: 1. A fine, loosely woven fabric in leno weave made with dyed filling yarns and

having a clipped dobby design. 2. A silk cord constructed by twisting together several twisted

strands.

GREX: 1. A unit of linear density equal to the weight in grams of 10 kilometers of yarn,

filament, fiber, or other textile strand. 2. The system of yarn numbering based on the use of grex

units. (Also . YARN NUMBER.)

GREY FABRIC: . GREIGE FABRIC.

GRINNING: 1. A flaw in fabric, especially a ribbed fabric, that occurs when warp threads show

through the covering filling threads or when the threads have slipped leaving open spaces on

either side. 2. A condition that occurs when the carpet backing shows through the pile. 3. A

printing term referring to either poor cover where the background shade shows through the print,

or to the “two-tone” appearance of a shade printed with incompatible dyes.

GRIPPER LOOMS: Shuttleless looms. These looms employ a projectile with a jaw that grips

the end of the filling yarn during the insertion of the pick.

GROSGRAIN: A heavy fabric with prominent ribs, grosgrain has a dressy appearance and is

used in ribbons, vestments, and ceremonial cloths.

GROUND COLOR: A term describing the plain background color against which a design is

created.

.

GROWTH: . SECONDARY CREEP.

GUIDE BAR: A mechanism on a warp-knitting machine that directs warp threads to the latch

needles.

GUIDES: Fittings of various shapes for controlling the path of a threadline.

GUILLOTINE: Cutting device that consists of a single blade that descends between guides for

chopping fibers, plastic strands, etc.

GUM: A term covering a wide range of substances. Strictly, gums are carbohydrate high

polymers, either soluble or dispersible in water, that are derived from vegetable origins. Loosely,

the term gum is used to mean resins, saps, natural rubber, chicle, starch, cellulose derivatives, and

many other products. In textile printing, the term refers to print-paste thickeners.

HAND: The tactile qualities of a fabric, e.g., softness, firmness, elasticity, fineness, resilience,

and other qualities perceived by touch.

HAND-BLOCKED PRINT: A fabric that has been printed by hand with wooden or linoleum

blocks. (Also . PRINTING.)

HANG PICK: A pick that is caught on a warp yarn knot for a short distance which produces a

triangular hole in the fabric. Hang picks usually result from knots that are tied incorrectly, shuttle

tension that is too loose, or harness that is timed too early.

HANK: 1. A skein of yarn. 2. A standard length of slubbing, roving, or yarn. The length is

specified by the yarn numbering system in use; e.g., cotton hanks have a length of 840 yards. 3.

A term applied to slubbing or roving that indicates the yarn number (count); e.g., a 1.5 hank

roving.

HANK ROVING: . HANK.

HARD FIBER: Stiff, elongated fibers obtained from leaves or stems of plants. Coarse and stiff,

they are used in matting and industrial products.

HARDNESS: 1. When used in reference to water, hardness is the total parts per million (ppm) of

calcium an CaCO3 plus the magnesium expressed as equivalent CaCO3 [ppm hardness (as CaCO3)

= (ppm Ca x 2.497 + ppm Mg x 4.116)]. 2. Used in reference to pulp to denote the degree of

delignification.

HARD SIZE: A condition found in areas of fabric where the warp contains an excessive quantity

of sizing.

HARNESS: A frame holding the heddles in position in the loom during weaving.

HARNESS CHAIN: A mechanism used to control the vertical movements of the harness, or

shaft, on a loom.

HARSH FIBER: Fiber that is rough or coarse to the touch, but not fused or bonded filaments.

HEAD END: 1. The beginning of a new piece of fabric in the loom that bears appropriate

identification. 2. A small sample of fabric that may be submitted to a customer for approval.

HEATHER YARN: A term describing mottled or melange-type yarns.

.

HEAT RESISTANCE: A property of certain fibers or yarns whereby they resist degradation at

high temperature. Heat resistance may be an inherent property of the fiber-forming polymer or it

may be imparted by additives or treatment during manufacture. (Also . HEAT STABILIZED.)

HEDDLE: A cord, round steel wire, or thin flat steel strip with a loop or eye near the center

through which one or more warp threads pass on the loom so that the thread movement may be

controlled in weaving. The heddles are held at both ends by the harness frame. They control the

weave pattern and shed as the harnesses are raised and lowered during weaving.

HELIX ANGLE: 1. The angle formed by the path of a ply and the major axis in a yarn or tire

cord. 2. The angle between the tangent to a yarn and the minor axis of the package on which it is

wound. Also called wind angle.

HEMICELLULOSES: The principal noncellulosic polysaccharides in wood. Wood contains 28

to 35% hemicelluloses, the balance being cellulose and lignin.

HEMP: A coarse, durable bast fiber of Cannabis sativa found all over the world. Used primarily

for twines, cordage, halyards, and tarred riggings.

HERRINGBONE: A broken twill weave characterized by a balanced zigzag effect produced by

having the rib run first to the right and then to the left for an equal number of threads.

HESSIAN: A name for burlap used in the United Kingdom, India, and parts or Europe. (Also

. BURLAP.)

HETEROFILAMENT: Also called Heterofil. . BICOMPONENT FIBERS.

HEXAMETHYLENEDIAMINE: 1,6-diaminohexane, (H2N(CH2)6NH2). It is used in the

polymerization reaction to form nylon 66.

HIGH-BULK YARN: . TEXTURED YARNS.

HIGH DENSITY: A term to describe a material with heavier than normal weight per unit

volume. (Also . DENSITY.)

.

HIGHLOFT: General term for a fiber structure containing more air than fiber. Specifically, a

lofty, low-density nonwoven structure that is used for applications such as fiberfill, insulation,

health care, personal protection and cleaning material.

HIGH-LOW PILE: A pile construction characterized by the

presence of two or more pile heights. High-low pile carpets

sometimes combine looped and cut surface yarns.

HIGH MODULUS: A term that refers to a material with a higher

than normal resistance to deformation. (Also . MODULUS.)

HIGH pH FINISH: A finish, basic in nature rather than acid or neutral, that is applied to yarn or

fiber.

HIGH-SHRINK STAPLE: Staple with a higher degree of potential shrinkage than regular staple

of the same generic fiber. When blended with regular staple and treated (in yarn or fabric form)

to induce shrinkage, it produces a high degree of bulk in the product.

HIGH-TEMPERATURE DYEING: . DYEING.

HIGH TENACITY: A term to describe a material with a higher than normal tensile strength.

(Also . TENACITY.)

HITCH-BACK: . STICKER, 1.

HOLES (TOW): In tow opening processes, partial or complete filament breakage within a

confined spread of tow, usually circular or oval in shape. Not to be confused with splitting or

partial crimp deregistration, which are linear.

HOLLAND: . SHADECLOTH.

HOLLAND FINISH: A glazed or unglazed finish containing oil and a filling material. The

finish is applied to cotton fabrics to make them opaque or semiopaque. The resultant fabric

resembles a beetled linen fabric called Holland fabric.

HOLLOW FILAMENT FIBERS: Manufactured, continuous filament fibers, having voids

created by introduction of air or other gas in the polymer solution or by melt spinning through

specially designed spinnerets.

HOMESPUN: Coarse plain-weave fabric of uneven yarns that have a handspun appearance.

HONAN: A pongee-type fabric of the very best Chinese wild silk. Honan is sometimes woven

with blue edges.

HOOK REED: . REED.

HOPSACKING: A coarse, open, basket-weave fabric that gets its name from the plain-weave

fabric of jute or hemp used for sacking in which hops are gathered.

HORIZONTAL FLAME TEST: . FLAMMABILITY TESTS.

.

HORIZONTAL LINE: . RING.

HOT-AIR SHRINKAGE: Generally, the reduction in the dimensions of a fabric, yarn, or fiber

induced by exposure to dry heat. Specifically, a fundamental property of fibers.

HOT-HEAD PRESS: A pressing machine capable of generating high temperatures and

pressures. Used for pressing and processing permanent-press fabrics.

HOT-MELT ADHESIVE: A solid material that melts quickly upon heating, then sets to a firm

bond upon cooling. Use of this type adhesive provides almost instantaneous bonding.

HOUNDSTOOTH: A term describing a medium-sized broken-check

effect; the check is actually a four pointed star.

HUCKABACK: A heavy, serviceable toweling made with slackly

twisted filling yarns to aid absorption. The cloth has a honeycomb

effect.

HYBRID COMPOSITE: Advanced composite with a combination

of different high-strength continuous filaments in the matrix. Also,

composite in which continuous and staple fibers are used in the same

matrix.

HYBRID FABRIC: Fabric for composite manufacture in which two or more different yarns are

used in the fabric construction. This provides design flexibility to meet performance

requirements and controls cost by permitting some lower priced fibers to be used.

HYBRID YARN: In aerospace textiles, a yarn having more than one component. (Also .

COMMINGLED YARN.)

HYDRAULIC ENTANGLEMENT: . HYDROENTANGLING.

HYDROENTANGLING: Process for forming a fabric by mechanically wrapping and knotting

fibers in a web through the use of high-velocity jets or curtains of water. (Also . SPUNLACES

FABRIC.)

HYDROEXTRACTOR: . CENTRIFUGE.

HYDROGENATION: The process of passing hydrogen into an unsaturated chemical in the

presence of a catalyst to convert the material to a more saturated state (i.e., containing more

combined hydrogen.)

HYDROLYSIS: A double decomposition reaction involving the addition of the elements of

water and the formation of an acid and a base, an acid and an alcohol, or an acid and phenol.

.

HYDROPHILIC: Having strong affinity for or the ability to absorb water.

HYDROPHOBIC: Lacking affinity for or the ability to absorb water.

HYDROSCOPIC: Having the ability to absorb moisture from the atmosphere. All fibers have

this property in varying degrees.

HYDROXYL END GROUP: A polymer chain-terminating (-OH) group.

HYGROSCOPIC: . HYDROSCOPIC.

HYSTERESIS: 1. In tire cord, a measurement of work lost through heat during dynamic

operation. 2. In tensile testing, loss of linear recovery following repeated loading and relaxation.

IMBIBITION: A measure of the liquid or water-holding capacity of a textile material.

IMMEDIATE ELASTIC DEFORMATION: Recoverable deformation that is essentially

independent of time, i.e., occurring in (a time approaching) zero time and recoverable in (a time

approaching) zero time after removal of the applied load.

IMPACT RESISTANCE: 1. The resistance of a material to fracture by a blow, expressed in

terms of the amount of energy absorbed before fracture. 2. In yarn or cord, the ability to withstand

instantaneous or rapid rate of loading.

IMPACT STRENGTH: . IMPACT RESISTANCE.

IMPREGNATED FABRIC: A fabric in which the interstices between the yarns are completely

filled, as compared to sized or coated material where the interstices are not completely filled. Not

included in the definition is a woven fabric constructed from impregnated yarns, rather than one

impregnated after weaving.

INDEX OF REFRACTION: Ratio of the velocity of light in one medium to its velocity in a

second medium as the light passes from medium to medium. If a medium is crystalline, the

velocity may depend on the direction of the light with respect to the crystalline axes and the

substance may have several indexes of refraction, i.e., it may be birefringent. (Also .

BIREFRINGENCE.)

INDIGO: Originally, a natural blue vat dye extracted from plants, especially the Indigofera

tinctoria plant. Most indigo dyes today are synthetic. They are frequently used on dungarees and

denims.

INDUSTRIAL FABRIC: A broad term for fabrics used for nonapparel and nondecorative uses.

They fall into several classes: (1) a broad group including fabrics employed in industrial

processes (e.g., filtering, polishing, and absorption), (2) fabrics combined with other materials to

produce a different type of product (e.g., rubberized fabric for hose, belting, and tires; fabric

combined with synthetic resins to be used for timing gears and electrical machinery parts; coated

or enameled fabrics for automobile tops and book bindings; and fabrics impregnated with

adhesive and dielectric compounds for application in the electrical industry), and (3) fabrics

incorporated directly in a finished product (e.g., sails, tarpaulins, tents, awnings, and specialty

belts for agricultural machinery, airplanes, and conveyors). Fabrics developed for industrial uses

cover a wide variety of widths, weights, and constructions and are attained, in many cases, only

after painstaking research and experiment. Cotton and manufactured fibers are important fibers

in this group, but virtually all textile fibers have industrial uses. The names mechanical fabrics or

technical fabrics sometimes have been applied to certain industrial fabrics.

INFLATABLE STUCTURES: Structures opened or enlarged by input of air and, once enlarged,

able to retain the air to maintain the distended position.

.

INFLOW QUENCH: Cooling air for extruded polymer filaments that is directed radially inward

across the path of the filaments. The threadline is completely enclosed in a quench cabinet in

inflow quenching.

INITIAL MODULUS: The slope of the initial straight portion of the stressstrain

curve. The modulus is the ratio of the change in stress, expressed in

newtons per tex, grams-force per tex, or grams-force per denier, to the change in strain expressed

as a fraction of the original length.

INITIATOR: A chemical added to start a reaction such as polymerization. Unlike catalysts,

initiators may be consumed during the reaction.

INSPECTION: The process of examining textiles for defects at any stage of manufacturing and

finishing.

INSTRON TENSILE TESTER: A high precision electronic test instrument designed for testing

a variety of material under a broad range of test conditions. It is used to measure and chart the

load-elongation properties of fibers, yarns, fabrics, webbings, plastics, films, rubber, leather,

paper, etc. May also be used to measure such properties as tear resistance and resistance to

compression.

INTAGLIO: 1. Printing style in which the design is cut into the surface of the cylinder and is

thus below the surface. 2. A lustrous, brocade pattern knitted in a tricot fabric.

INTENSITY: 1. The amount of energy per unit (space, charge, time). 2. The brilliance of a

color. 3. The brightness of light.

INTERFACIAL POLYMERIZATION: Polymerization in which two reactive monomers, each

dissolved in different solvents that are mutually immiscible, react at the interface between the two

solutions.

INTERLINING: A padding or stiffening fabric used in garment manufacture to provide shape

retention. Interlining is sandwiched between layers of fabric.

INTERMITTENT PATTERN: A pattern occurring in interrupted sequence.

INTERNAL DYE VARIABILITY: The change from point to point in dye uniformity across the

diameter and along the length of the individual filaments. Affects appearance of the dyed product

and is a function of fiber, dye, dyeing process, and dyebath characteristics.

INTERNATIONAL GRAY SCALE: A scale distributed through AATCC that is used as a

comparison standard to rate degrees of fading from 5 (negligible or no change) to 1 (severe

change). The term is sometimes applied to any scale of quality in which 5 is excellent and 1 is

poor.

INTIMATE BLEND: A technique of mixing two or more dissimiliar fibers in a very uniform

mixture. Usually the stock is mixed before or at the picker.

INTRINSIC VISCOSITY: Ratio of the specific viscosity (R.V.-1) of a solution of known

concentration to the concentration of solute extrapolated to zero concentration. Also called the

limiting viscosity number. It is directly proportional to the polymer-average molecular weight.

IONOMER: A polymer having covalent bonds between the constituents of the long-chain

molecules and ionic bonds between the chains.

ISLANDS-IN-THE-SEA: A type of component fiber described as multipleinterface

or filament-in-matrix. The “island” are fibrils of one or more polymers

imbedded in the “sea” (or matrix) consisting of another polymer. The matrix is

often dissolved away to leave filaments of very low denier per filament. These

.

fibers have been used in ion-exchange products and in imitation fur products as well as to

produce textile products with a different hand.

ISOTACTIC POLYMER: A polymer structure in which there is a regular spatial or stereo

relationship from one repeat unit to the next. (Also . ATACTIC POLYMER,

SYNDIOTACTIC POLYMER, and TACTIC POLYMER.)

ISOTHERM: Constant temperature line used on graphs of climatic conditions or thermodynamic

relations, such as pressure-volume relations at constant temperature.

ISOTROPIC: Having the same physical properties in every direction in the plane of a fabric. It

is related to the random distribution of fibers in nonwoven manufacture.

®

.

JACK- 1. A blade having high and/or low butts used to actuate the movement of latch knitting

needles. 2. Part of a dobby head designed to serve as a lever in the operation of the harness of a

loom.

JACKET- 1. A woven or felted tubular sleeve for covering and shrinking on a machine roll. 2.

A short coat. 3. In polymer manufacture, an external shell around a reaction vessel. For example,

jacketed vessels are used when heat-transfer medium is circulated around the vessel.

JACQUARD- A system of weaving that utilizes a highly versatile pattern mechanism to permit

the production of large, intricate designs. The weave pattern is achieved by a series of punched

cards. Each card perforation controls the action of one warp thread for the passage of one pick.

The machine may carry a large number of cards, depending upon the design, because there is a

separate card for each pick in the pattern. Jacquard weaving is used for tapestry, brocade,

damask, brocatelle, figured necktie and dress fabrics, and some floor coverings. A similar device

is used for the production of figured patterns on some knit goods.

JASPÉ- 1. A fabric used for suiting, draperies, or upholstery characterized by a series of faint

stripes formed by dark, medium, and light yarns of the same color. 2. A term describing carpets

having a faint striped effect.

J-BOX- A J-shaped holding device used in continuous operations to provide varying amounts of intermediate material storage such as in wet processing of fabrics and in tow production. The material is fed to the top and pleated to fill the long arm before being withdrawn from the short arm.

J-CUT- In tufting cut-pile carpet constructions, uneven cutting of the loops caused by poor adjustment of knives and hooks or excessive tension.

JEAN- Cotton twill fabric, similar to denim, but lighter and finer, in a 2/1 weave for sportswear

and linings.

JERSEY- 1. A circular-knit or flat-knit fabric made with a plain stitch in which the loops intermesh in only one direction. As a result, the appearance of the face and the back of a jersey

fabric is wholly different. 2. A tricot fabric made with a simple stitch, characterized by excellent drape and wrinkle recovery properties.

.JET- 1. A device used to bulk yarns by introducing curls, coils, and loops that are formed by the

action of a high velocity stream, usually of air or steam. (Also . TEXTURING, Air Jet

Method.) 2. . SPINNERET.

JET DYEING MACHINE- A high-temperature piecedyeing

machine that circulates the dye liquor through a

Venturi jet, thus imparting a driving force to move the

fabric. The fabric, in rope form, is sewn together to form a

loop.

JET LOOM- A shuttleless loom that employs a jet of water or air to carry the filling yarn through the shed.

(Also WEFT INSERTION.)

JIG- A machine in which fabric in open width-form is transferred repeatedly from one roller to another, passing each time through a bath of relatively small volume. Jigs are used for scouring, dyeing, bleaching,

and finishing.

JUTE- A bast fiber used for sacking, burlap, and twine as a backing material for tufted carpets.

JUTE BUTT- The flaggy lower end of jute fiber that is cut off in  preparing jute for market. The fibers are 0.4 to 1 inch in length. Jute butts are used in twines and coarse bagging.

JUTE COUNT- The weight in pounds of a spindle of 14,400 yards of yarn.

KAPOK- Short, lightweight cotton-like fibers from the .d pod of trees of the family

Bombacabeae. A very brittle fiber, it is generally not spun. It is used for stuffing cushions,

mattresses, etc., and for life jackets because of its buoyancy and moisture resistance.

KERATIN- The basic protein constituent of wool and other hair fibers.

KERSEY- A heavily fulled or milled woolen fabric having a high lustrous nap and a “grainy”

face, kersey is frequently used in overcoats.

KHAKI- 1. A light yellowish brown. 2. A khaki-colored cloth of cotton, wool, or combinations

of these fibers with manufactured fibers used primarily in military uniforms and workclothes.

KIER- A large metal tank, capable of being heated uniformly, used for

wet processing.

KIER BOILING- Process of boiling cellulosic materials in alkaline

liquors in a kier at or above atmospheric pressure.

KINK- 1. In fabrics, a place where a short length of yarn has

spontaneously doubled back on itself. 2. In yarn, . SNARL.

KINKING- The doubling back of yarn on itself to relieve torque imparted

by twisting or texturing.

KINKY THREAD- . KINK.

KNEE BREAK-OUT TEST- A method to evaluate the performance of fabrics, especially boys’

wear, when subjected to abrasion, stretch, and impact forces under conditions which simulate

ordinary wear at the knee.

KNEEING- Abnormal behavior of a spinning threadline (especially in melt spinning) in which

one or more filaments form an angle (knee).

KNIT-DE-KNIT- . TEXTURING, Knit-de-Knit Method.

KNIT FABRIC- A structure produced by interlooping one or more ends of yarn or comparable

material. (Also . KNITTING.)

KNIT-MISS- A form of tricot knitting in which yarns on each bar of a two-bar machine are knit

at alternate courses only. This type of knitting permits the use of heavy-denier yarns without

creating undesirable bulkiness in the fabric.

KNITTING- A method of constructing fabric by interlocking series of loops of one or more

yarns. The two major classes of knitting are warp knitting and weft knitting, as follows-

.

1. Warp Knitting- A type of knitting in which the yarns generally run lengthwise in the fabric.

The yarns are prepared as warps on beams with one or more yarns for each needle. Examples of

this type of knitting are tricot, milanese, and raschel knitting.

Milanese Knitting- A type of run-resistant warp knitting with a diagonal rib effect using

several sets of yarns.

Raschel Knitting- A versatile type of warp knitting made in plain and Jacquard patterns;

the latter can be made with intricate eyelet and lacy patterns and is often used for

underwear fabrics. Raschel fabrics are coarser than other warp-knit fabrics, but a wide

range of fabrics can be made. Raschel knitting machines have one or two sets of latch

needles and up to thirty sets of guides.

Tricot Knitting- A run-resistant type of warp knitting in which either single or double

sets of yarn are used. (Also . TRICOT.)

2. Weft Knitting- A common type of knitting, in which one continuous thread runs crosswise in

the fabric making all of the loops in one course. Weft knitting types are circular and flat knitting.

Circular Knitting- The fabric is produced on the knitting machine in the form of a tube,

the threads running continuously around the fabric.

Flat Knitting- The fabric is produced on the knitting machine in flat form, the threads

alternating back and forth across the fabric. The fabric can be given shape in the knitting

process by increasing or decreasing loops. Full-fashioned garments are made on a flatknitting

machine. (Also . FLAT-KNIT FABRIC.)

KRAFTCORD- This yarn produced by tightly twisting plant fiber is sometimes used in carpet

backings.

KRAFT PULPS- Pulps prepared in the alkaline liquor consisting of sodium hydroxide, sodium

carbonate, and sodium sulfide. Also called sulfate pulp.

KRAFT YARN- A yarn made by twisting a strip of paper manufactured from kraft pulp.

KROY® SHRINKPROOFING PROCESS- Continuous process for shrinkproofing wool tops

in which there is a direct chlorination step with no intervening chemical reaction followed by

anti-chlorination and neutralization. Provides better hand and strength than does conventional

shrinkproofing.

KUSTERS DYEING RANGE- Continuous dye range for carpets. The unit wets the carpet, applies dyes and auxiliary chemicals by means of a doctor blade, fixes the dyes in a festoon steamer, and washes and dries the carpet in one pass through the range. An optional auxiliary unit may be installed to randomly drip selected dyes onto the background shade for special styling effects. This process is called TAK dyeing.

LACE- Ornamental openwork fabric, made in a variety of designs by intricate manipulation of

the fiber by machine or by hand.

LACE STITCH- In this knitting stitch structure, loops are transferred

from the needles on which they are made to adjacent needles to create

a fabric with an open or a raised effect.

LAP- A continuous, considerably compressed sheet of fibers that is rolled under pressure into a

cylindrical package, usually weighing between 40 and 50 pounds. The lap is used to supply the

card.

LAPPING- A term describing the movement of yarn guides between needles, at right angles to

the needle bar, or laterally in relation to the needle bar, or laterally in relation to the needle bar

during warp knitting.

LAP SPLITTING- A condition caused by a lap that will not unwind in carding in the same

thickness as it was wound in picking. This splitting of the sheet of fiber can result in either a

thicker or thinner sheet being fed into the card.

.

LASE- An acronym for load at specified elongation- the load required to produce a given

elongation of a yarn or cord.

LASER- A device for producing an intense beam of coherent light. It is used for cutting,

spectroscopy, photography, biomedical investigations, etc.

LASHED-IN FILLING- . PULLED-IN FILLING.

LASTRILE FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a copolymer

of acrylonitrile and a diene composed of at least 10% by weight, but not more than 50% by

weight, of acrylonitrile [-CH2-CH(CN)-] units (FTC definition).

LATCH NEEDLE- One of the two types of knitting machine needles. The latch

needle has a small terminal hook with a latch that pivots automatically in knitting

to close the hook. The fabric loop is cast off. The latch then opens, allowing a

new loop to be formed by the hook, and loop-forming and casting-off proceed

simultaneously. (Also . SPRING NEEDLE..)

LATENT CRIMP- Crimp in fibers that can be developed by a specific

treatment. Fibers are prepared specially to crimp when subjected to specific

conditions, e.g., tumbling in a heated chamber or wet processing.

LATEX- A milky fluid found in certain cells of some families of .d plants.

Latex is the raw material from which rubber is made.

LAWN- A light, thin cloth made of carded or combed yarns, this fabric is given a creaseresistant,

crisp finish. Lawn is crisper than voile but not as crisp as organdy.

LCP- . LIQUID CRYSTAL POLYMER.

LEA- 1. One-seventh of an 840-yard cotton hank, i.e., 120 yards. 2. A standard skein with 80

revolutions of 1.5 yards each (total length of 120 yards). It is used for strength tests. 3. A unit of

measure, 300 yards, used to determine the yarn number of linen yarn. The number of leas in one

pound is the yarn number.

LEACHING- The removal of any substance or dye from textiles by the percolating action of a

suitable liquid.

.

LET-OFF MOTION- A device for controlling the delivery and tension of the warp during

weaving.

LEVELING- Migration leading to uniform distribution of dye in a dyed material. Leveling may

be a property of the dye or it may require chemical assistance.

LEVEL LOOP- A term describing a tufted or woven carpet with uncut, equal length loops

composing the pile surface.

LICKERIN- A part of the feed mechanism of the card. It consists of a hollow, metal roll with a

spirally grooved surface containing a special saw-toothed wire. The lickerin opens up the tufts of

the picker lap as it is fed to the card and transfers the fibers to the main cylinder.

LICKERIN LOADING- A condition whereby fibers are imbedded in the lickerin wire clothing

so as to resist transfer to the cylinder clothing.

LIGHT END- 1. The low boiling fraction in distillation. 2. . FINE END, 1.

LIGHTFASTNESS- The degree of resistance of dyed textile materials to the color-destroying

influence of sunlight. Two methods of testing are in use- (1) exposure to sunlight, either directly

or under glass, and (2) accelerated testing in a laboratory apparatus equipped with any of several

types of artificial light sources.

LIGNIN- The major noncarbohydrate portion of wood. It is an amorphous polymeric substance

that cements the fibrous portions together.

LIMITING OXYGEN INDEX- A relative measure of flammability that is determined as

follows. A sample is ignited in an oxygen/nitrogen atmosphere. The oxygen content is adjusted

until the minimum required to sustain steady burning is found. The higher the value, the lower

the flammability.

LINEAR DENSITY- Mass per unit length expressed as grams per centimeter, pounds per foot,

or equivalent units. It is the quotient obtained by dividing the mass of a fiber or yarn by its

length.

LINEN- Cellulosic fibers derived from the stem of the flax plant or a fabric made from these

fibers. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous that cotton; they yield cool, absorbent

fabrics that wrinkle easily. Fabrics with linen-like texture and coolness but with good wrinkle

resistance can be produced from manufactured fibers and blends.

LINEN LEA- The number of 300-yard hanks contained in one pound.

LINET- A French-make lining fabric of unbleached linen.

LINING FABRIC- Fabric that is used to cover inner surfaces, especially when the inner surface

MACE SNAG TEST- A test for evaluation of snagging performance. A fabric sample is mounted on a revolving drum in contact with a miniature mace that tracks randomly across the sample. The spikes of the mace effect the snagging. The test predicts results in actual wear.

MACHINE DIRECTION- The long direction within the place of the fabric, i.e., the direction in which the fabric is being produced by the machine.

MACHINE TWIST- A hard-twist sewing thread, usually of 3-ply construction spun with S twists and plied with Z twist, especially made for use in sewing machines.

MACROLATTICE- A repeating structure in very small microfibrils of alternating crystalline and amorphous regions. Yarn properties are thought to be governed by morphology at the macrolattice scale.

MADRAS- A lightweight, plain weave fabric with a striped, checked, or plaid pattern. True

madras is “guaranteed to bleed.”

MALLORY FATIGUE TEST- A test to measure the endurance properties of tire cord.

MANDRELL- The core around which the impregnated filaments are placed to form a specified

shape in composite manufacture.

MANILA- Fiber obtained from the leaf stalks of the abaca plant. It is generally used for cordage.

MANUFACTURED FIBER- A class name for various genera of fibers (including filaments)

produced from fiber-forming substances which may be- (1) polymers synthesized from chemical

compounds, e.g., acrylic, nylon, polyester, polyethylene, polyurethane, and polyvinyl fibers; (2)

modified or transformed natural polymers, e.g., alginic and cellulose-based fibers such as acetates

and rayons; and (3) minerals, e.g., glasses. The term manufactured usually refers to all

chemically produced fibers to distinguish them from the truly natural fibers such as cotton, wool,

silk, flax, etc.

MARKER- In the floor coverings industry, a distinctive threadline in the back of a carpet that

enables the installer to assemble breadths of carpet so that the pile lays in one direction or so that

patterns match.

.

MARL YARN- A yarn made from two rovings of contrasting colors drafted together, then spun.

Provides a mottled effect.

MARQUISETTE- A lightweight, open-mesh fabric made of cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers

in a leno, doup, or gauze weave. Marquisettes are used for curtains, dresses, mosquito nets, and

similar end uses.

MARRIED FIBER CLUMP- A defect that occurs in converter top. It consists of a group of

unopened, almost coterminous fibers with the crimp in register.

MATELASSÉ- A soft, double or compound fancy-woven fabric with a quilted appearance.

Heavier types are used as draperies and upholsteries. Crepe matelassé is used for dresses, wraps,

and other apparel. Matelassé is usually woven on a Jacquard loom.

MATERIAL BALANCE- A mathematical representation of material flow through a reaction

system. The input material is accounted for throughout its various transformations.

MATRIX FIBER- 1. A manufactured fiber that is essentially a physical combination or mixture

of two or more chemically distinct constituents or components combined at or prior to the time of

extrusion (i.e., produced in fiber form), which components if separately extruded would each fall

within different definitions of textile fiber. (FTC definition). Matrix fibril fibers have the fibril

constituent randomly arranged across the cross section of the matrix. When the fibril component

is in high concentration it may actually form a fibrillar network in the matrix. 2. In aerospace

textiles, a thermoplastic fiber used with reinforcing fiber to form a composite after consolidation

with heat and pressure. 3. In nonwovens manufacture, fibers that are blended with low-melt

fibers to form a thermally bonded fabric.

MATTED STAPLE- Fiber in the bale that is compressed and entangled in a manner indicating

that the fiber was either too wet at the baling operation or that excessive baling pressure was used.

MATT EFFECT- . BASKET WEAVE.

MECHANICAL FINISHING- Changing the appearance or physical properties of a fabric by a

mechanical process such as calendering, embossing, bulking, compacting, or creping.

MELDED FABRIC- A nonwoven fabric of a base fiber and a thermoplastic fiber. The web is

hot-calendered or embossed at the softening point of the thermoplastic fiber to form the bond.

MELT- A material in the molten state.

MELT BLEND- . BICONSTITUENT

FIBER.

MELT BLOWING- The formation of a nonwoven by extruding molten polymer through a die then attenuating and breaking the resulting filaments with hot, high-velocity air or steam. This results in

short fiber lengths. The short fibers are then collected on a moving screen where they bond during cooling.

.MELT-DYED- . DYEING, Mass-Colored.

MELT INDEX- The weight in grams of a thermoplastic material that can be forced through a

standard orifice within a specified time.

MELTING POINT- The temperature at which the solid and liquid states of a substance are in

equilibrium; generally, the temperature at which a substance changes from a solid to a liquid.

MELTON- A heavily fulled, hard, plain coating fabric that was originally all wool but is now

also .n in wool blends.

MELT SPINNING- . SPINNING.

MELT VISCOSITY- The resistance of molten polymer to shear deformation. It is primarily a

factor of intrinsic viscosity and temperature. It is an apparent polymer viscosity measurement in

that it is only true at a specific shear stress and shear rate combination.

MENDING- A process in woven fabric manufacture in which weaving imperfections, tears,

broken yarns, and similar defects are repaired after weaving; especially on woolen and worsted

fabrics to prepare them for dyeing, finishing, or other processing.

NAINSOOK- A fine, lightweight, plain-weave fabric, usually of combed cotton. The fabric is

often mercerized to produce luster and is finished soft. Nainsook is chiefly used for infants’

wear, lingerie, and blouses.

NAP- A downy surface given to a cloth when part of the fiber is raised from the basic structure.

NAPHTHALENE- A solid aromatic hydrocarbon (C10H8) derived from coal tar. Naphthalene is

used as moth flakes and as the basis of certain dye components.

NAPHTHOL DYES- . DYES.

NAPPING- A finishing process that raises the surface fibers of a fabric by means of passage over

rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points or teasel burrs. Outing, flannel, and wool

broadcloth derive their downy appearance from this finishing process. Napping is also used for

certain knit goods, blankets, and other fabrics with a raised surface.

NARROW FABRIC- Any nonelastic woven fabric, 12 inches or less in width, having a selvage

on either side, except ribbon and seam binding.

NATURAL FIBER- A class name for various genera of fibers (including filaments) of- (1)

animal (i.e., silk and wool); (2) mineral (i.e., asbestos); or (3) vegetable origin (i.e., cotton, flax,

jute, and ramie).

NECKING- 1. The sudden reduction in the diameter of an undrawn

manufactured filament when it is stretched. 2. Narrowing in width of a

fabric or film when it is stretched.

NEEDLE- 1. A thin, metal device, usually with an eye at one end for inserting the thread, used in

sewing to transport the thread. 2. The portion of a knitting machine used for intermeshing the

loops. Several types of knitting needles are available. (Also . SPRING NEEDLE and LATCH

NEEDLE.) 3. In nonwovens manufacture, a barbed metal device used for punching the web’s

own fibers vertically through the web.

NEEDLE BED- Flat metal plate with slots at regular intervals in which the knitting needles slide

on the knitting machine.

NEEDLED FABRICS- The product of the needle loom (q.v.). Needled fabrics are used for rug

pads, papermaker’s felts, padding, linings, etc.

NEEDLE LOOP- A loop of yarn drawn through a loop made previously.

NEEDLEPUNCHING- The process of converting batts or webs of loose fibers into a coherent

nonwoven fabric on a needle loom (q.v.).

NEEDLE SET-OUT- A term that refers to long periods of time when certain needles are

removed from the knitting cycle. The process is used to make sweater cuffs.

NEEDLE SLOT- A groove that houses a needle in the cylinder or dial of a circular-knitting

machine or the needle bed of a flat-bed machine.

NEP- A small knot of entangled fibers that usually will not straighten to a parallel position during

carding or drafting.

NET- An open fabric made by knotting the intersections of thread, cord, or wires to form meshes. Net can be made by hand or machine in a variety of mesh sizes and weights matched to varying end uses, i.e.,

veils, curtains, fish nets, and heavy cargo nets.

NET RATE- In a fiber production process the total throughput less waste and inferior or off-grade material.

NETTING- The process of knotting threads into meshes that will not ravel.

NEUTRON-ABSORBING FIBER- Polyethylene fiber modified with boron used in the nuclear industry for reducing neutron transmission.

NINON- A lightweight fabric of silk or manufactured fibers made in a plain weave with an open mesh. Used for curtains and evening wear.

NIP- 1. The line or area of contact between two contiguous rollers. 2. A defect in yarn consisting of a thin place.

NIP CREASES- Creases occurring at regular intervals along a fabric selvage subsequent to a

nipping operation such as calendering or padding. Such creases are caused by a loosely wound

selvage or improper let-off tension which allows the fabric to fold over or gather at the selvage

prior to entering the nip of the rolls.

NOIL- A short fiber that is rejected in the combing process of yarn manufacture.

NONELASTIC WOVEN TAPE- A woven narrow fabric, weighing less than 15 ounces per

square yard, made principally of natural and/or manufactured fibers, including monofilaments,

but not containing rubber or other similar elastic stands.

NONTORQUE YARN- . TEXTURED YARNS.

.

NONWOVEN FABRIC- An assembly of textile fibers held together by mechanical interlocking

in a random web or mat, by fusing of the fibers (in the case of thermoplastic fibers), or by

bonding with a cementing medium such as starch, glue, casein, rubber, latex, or one of the

cellulose derivatives or synthetic resins. Initially, the fibers may be oriented in one direction or

may be deposited in a random manner. This web or sheet of fibers is bonded together by one of

the methods described above. Normally, crimped fibers that range in length from 0.75 to 4.5

inches are used.

Nonwoven fabrics are used for expendable items such as hospitable sheets, napkins, diapers,

wiping cloths, as the base material for coated fabrics, and in a variety of other applications. They

can also be used for semi-disposable items and for permanent items such as interlinings.

NOVELTY YARN- A yarn produced for a special effect. Novelty yarns are usually uneven in

size, varied in color, or modified in appearance by the presence of irregularities deliberately

produced during their formation. In singles yarns, the irregularities may be caused by inclusion

of knots, loops, curls, slubs, and the like. In plied yarns, the irregularities may be effected by

variable delivery of one or more yarn components or by twisting together dissimilar singles yarns.

Nub and slub are examples of novelty yarns.

NOVOLOID FIBER- A manufactured fiber containing at least 85% by weight of a cross-linked

novolac (FTC definition). Novoloid is flame resistant and nonmelting. Its primary use is in

flame-protective garments and products.

NOZZLE- 1. The spout through which something is discharged, i.e., oil in finish application or

fibers in web laying. 2. A term sometimes used to refer to spinnerets.

NUB YARN- A novelty yarn containing slubs, beads, or lumps introduced intentionally.

NUCLEATION- A process by which crystals are formed. Crystals form initially on minute

traces of foreign substances that act as the nucleus, then grow by external

addition.

NUN’S VEILING- A soft, lightweight, plain-weave fabric that usually comes in black and white, nun’s veiling is a rather flimsy, open fabric but always of high quality. It may be made from fine woolen yarn or yarns spun from manufactured fibers such as nylon, acrylic, or polyester.

NYTRIL FIBER- A manufactured fiber containing at least 85% by weight of a long chain

polymer of vinylidene dinitrile [-CH2-C(CN)2-] and having the vinylidene dinitrile group in no

less than every other unit in the polymer chain (FTC definition). Nytril fibers have a low

softening point so they are most commonly used in articles that do not require pressing such as

sweaters and pile fabrics. They are also blended with wool to improve shrink resistance and

shape retention.

OATMEAL- A heavy, soft linen fabric with a pebbled or crepe effect.

OFF-CLIP- . SCALLOPED SELVAGE.

OFF-SQUARE- 1. A term to describe the difference between the percentage of warp crimp and the percentage of filling crimp. 2. A term referring to a fabric in which the number of ends and the number of picks per inch are not equal.

OILCLOTH- Any fabric treated with lin.d-oil varnish to make it waterproof. It comes in plain colors and printed designs and is most commonly used for table covers or shelf covering. It has now been widely replaced by plastic coated fabrics.

OILPROOF- A term describing fabrics that are impervious to oil.

OIL-REPELLENT- A term applied to fabrics that have been treated with finishes to make them resistant to oil stains.

OLEFIN FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of ethylene, propylene, or other olefin units. Olefin fibers combine lightweight with high strength and abrasion resistance, and arecurrently being used in rope, indoor-outdoor carpets, and lawn furniture upholstery.

OLEOPHILIC- A term describing a substance that has a strong affinity for oils.

OLEOPHOBIC- A term describing a substance that does not have a strong affinity for oils.

OLIGOMER- A polymer molecule consisting of only a few monomer units.

OMBRÉ- A color effect in which the shade is changeable from light to dark, generally produced by using warp yarns of different tones. Ombré effects may also be produced by printing.

ONDULE- A general term for plain-weave fabrics of silk, cotton, or manufactured fiber having a wavy effect produced by weaving the warp or filling, but usually the filling, in a wavy line. An ondule reed is generally used to produce this effect, often in a leno weave to emphasize the wave. Ondule is used for dress fabrics.

ON-STREAM- The state of having been brought into production. The term is usually used for chemical and metallurgical plants or processes.

OPEN-END SPINNING- A system of spinning based on the concept of introducing twist into the yarn without package rotation by simply rotating the yarn end at a gap or break in the flow of the fibers between the delivery system and the yarn package. Because  the twisting element can be compact and the mass of material to be rotated is small, very high twisting speeds can be attained. The process, in a sense combines the traditional processes of roving and spinning in one operation. Present work is directed toward incorporating the drafting operation into the process by using card sliver as the feedstock. This can facilitate process linking.

OPEN FACE- A fabric defect consisting of an open appearance of the fabric which permits the filling to “grin” through the warp ends in the center portion of the fabric.

OPENING- 1. A preliminary operation in the processing of staple fiber. Opening separates the compressed masses of staple into loose tufts and removes the heavier impurities. 2. An operation in the processing of tow that substantially increases the bulk of the tow by separating the filaments and deregistering the crimp.

OPTICAL BRIGHTENER- 1. A colorless compound that, when applied to fabric, absorbs the ultraviolet radiation in light but emits radiation in the visible spectrum. 2. Fluorescent materials added to polymer in manufactured fiber production that emit light in the visible spectrum, usually with a blue cast.

OPTICAL PROPERTIES- A general term used to refer to the relations of yarn or fibers with light. It includes such parameters as birefringence, refractive index, reflectance, optical density, etc.

OPTIMUM TWIST- In spun yarns, a term to describe the amount of twist that gives the maximum breaking strength or the maximum bulk at strength levels acceptable for weaving or knitting.

ORGANDY- A very thin, transparent, stiff, wiry, muslin fabric used for dresses, neckwear, trimmings, and curtains. Swiss organdy is chemically treated and keeps its crisp, transparent finish through many launderings. Organdy without chemical treatment loses its crispness in laundering and has to be restarched. Organdy crushes or musses but is easily pressed. Shadow organdy has a faint printed design in self-color.

ORGANZA- A stiff, thin, plain weave fabric made of silk, nylon, acrylic, or polyester, organza is used primarily in evening and wedding attire for women.

ORGANIZE YARN- Two or more threads twisted in the singles and then plied in the reverse direction. The number of turns per inch in the singles and in the ply is usually in the range of 10 to 20 turns. Organzine yarn is generally used in the warp.

ORIENTATION- In linear polymeric structures, the degree of parallelism of the chain molecules.

ORIFICE- Generally, an opening. Used specifically to refer to the small holes in spinnerets through which the polymer flows in the manufacture of fibers.

ORTHO- A chemical prefix, usually abbreviated o, signifying that two substituents appear in adjacent positions on a benzene ring.

OSNABURG- A coarse cotton or polyester/cotton fabric, often partly of waste fiber, in a plain weave, medium to heavy in weight, that looks like crash. Unbleached osnaburg is used for grain and cement sacks, and higher grades are used as apparel and household fabrics.

OTTOMAN- Heavy, large, filling rib yarns, often of cotton, wool, or waste yarn, covered in their entirety by silk or manufactured fiber warp yarns, characterized this fabric used for women’s wear and coats.

OUTFLOW QUENCH- Air for cooling extruded polymer that is directed radially outward from a central dispersion device around which the filaments descend.

OVEN-DRY WEIGHT- The constant weight of a specimen obtained by drying in an oven under prescribed conditions of temperature and humidity.

OVERCUT- A staple fiber that is longer than nominal length. Usually, the length is a multiple of 2, 3, or more times the nominal length. An overcut is caused by the failure of filaments to be cut to the desired length during staple  manufacture.

OVERSPRAYING- A term sometimes used to describe the application, by spraying, of a fiber lubricant to staple fibers during opening and blending.

OVER-THE-COUNTER- A term that usually refers to direct sales to a retail customer in a store, as opposed to wholesale marketing.

OXFORD CLOTH- A soft but stout shirting fabric in a modified basket weave with a large filling yarn having no twist woven under and over two single, twisted warp yarns. The fabric is usually made from cotton or polyester/cotton blends and is frequently given a silk like luster finish.

OZONE FADING- The fading of a dyed textile material, especially those in blue shades, caused by atmospheric ozone.