PACKAGES- A large selection of forms for
winding yarn is available to meet the requirements
of
existing machinery and a variety of package builds is used to ensure suitable
unwinding in later
stages
of manufacturing. Since a package with flanges cannot be unwound easily and
quickly by
pulling
the yarn off overend, most packages are flangeless with self-supporting edges.
Some can
be
unwound at speeds up to 1500 yd/min. The accompanying diagram shows six common
types
of yarn
packages.
PACK LIFE- The time during which a pack
assembly can remain in use and produce goodquality
yarn.
PADDING- The application of a liquor or
paste to textiles either by passing the material through
a bath
and subsequently through squeeze rollers, or by passing it between squeeze
rollers, the
bottom
one of which carries the liquor or paste.
.
PADDLE DYEING MACHINE- A machine used for dyeing
garments, hosiery, and other small
pieces
that are packaged loosely in mesh bags. The unit consists of an open tank and
revolving
paddles
that circulate the bags in the dyebath.
PAISLEY- A drop-shaped pattern that is
extremely popular for men’s
ties and womenswear.
PANELS (HOSIERY)- Knitted panels used for testing
purposes.
PANNÉ SATIN- A satin fabric with an unusually
high luster
because
of the application of very heavy roll pressure in finishing.
Panné
satin is made of silk or one of the manufactured fibers.
PANNÉ VELVET- Velvet of silk or a
manufactured fiber, with a finish in which the pile is
flattened
and laid in one direction. Panné velvet is a lustrous, lightweight fabric.
PAPERMAKER’S FELT- Formerly, a heavy, wide,
coarse, worsted or woolen fabric that was
threaded
between the rolls of the papermaking machine to form an endless conveyer belt
for pulp
or wet
paper in its passage through the machine. These products are now also made of
various
constructions,
woven and nonwoven, of manufactured fibers and monofilaments.
PARA- A chemical prefix, usually
abbreviated p, indicating that two
substituents on a benzene
ring
are separated by two carbon atoms.
PARALLELING- The process of aligning fibers
to produce a more uniform, smoother, stronger
yarn.
PARTIALLY ORIENTED STAPLE- Staple
fibers cut from tow that has been drawn less than
normal
so that only partial longitudinal orientation of the polymer molecules exists.
PARTIALLY ORIENTED YARNS (POY)- Filament
yarns in which the draw ratio is less than
normal
resulting in only partial longitudinal orientation of the polymer molecules.
PART RUN- A partially filled bobbin that
occurs when an end breaks before the completion of a
doff
cycle. The total weight of yarn normally wound during a cycle is not obtained
on the bobbin
at the
break position. The number of part runs is used as a measure of spinning
performance.
PATTERN- 1. An arrangement of form; a
design or decoration such as the design of woven or
printed
fabrics. 2. A model, guide, or plan used in making things, such as a garment
pattern.
PATTERN WHEEL- In a circular-knitting machine,
a slotted device for controlling individual
needles
so that patterns can be knit in the fabric.
PBI- . POLYBENZIMIDAZOLE FIBER.
PEARL- . PURL, 2.
PEAU DE SOIE- A heavyweight, soft satin of
silk or manufactured fiber with a fine cross rib
and a
dull luster. The term is French for “skin of silk.”
.
PEBBLE-WEAVE FABRIC- A fabric with an irregular or
rough surface texture formed by
either
a special weave or by the use of highly twisted yarns that shrink when they are
wet.
PECE- Post-chlorinated vinyl chloride
polymer. The post-chlorination process increases
chlorine
content form 57% to 64%. The resulting polymer is soluble in acetone and can be
wet
spun.
PEEL ADHESION- The force required to
delaminate a structure or to separate the surface layer
from a
substrate. Peel adhesion is the usual measure of the strength of the bond
between fiber
reinforcements
and rubber in tires and other mechanical rubber goods.
PEELER- In beaming, a defect caused by
a portion of an end sticking or remaining on the beam,
causing
the filament to strip back or peel until it is broken. Although they are often
associated
with
ringers, peelers are not necessarily defects that will circle the beams.
PEGGING- A finishing process for
velveteen consisting of applying friction with blocks of
wood or
soapstone to impart a gloss or sheen to the fabric.
PEGGING JETS- A technique for freeing a
plugged hole in a spinneret by rubbing the face with
a piece
of wood. Use of the technique has been discouraged because of damage to the
spinneret.
PELERINE- A device for transferring
stitches from the cylinder to the dial or vice versa on a
circular-knitting
machine.
PERCALE- A closely woven, plain-weave,
spun fabric used for dress goods and sheeting,
generally
80 x 80 threads per inch or better.
PERCHING- Inspection of cloth for defects
while it is run over a roller.
PERMANENT DEFORMATION- The change in length of a
sample after removal of an
applied
tensile stress and after the removal of any internal strain (e.g., by boiling
off the sample
and
allowing it to dry without tension). The permanent deformation is expressed as
a percentage
of the
original sample length.
PERMANENT FINISH- A term for various finishing
treatments, chemical and/or mechanical,
applied
to fabric so that it will retain certain properties, such as glaze of chintz,
crispness of
organdy,
smoothness of cotton table damask, and crease, crush, and shrinkage resistance
of many
apparel
fabrics during the normal period of wear and laundering.
pH- Value indicating the acidity or
alkalinity of a material. It is the negative logarithm of the
effective
hydrogen ion concentration. A pH of 7.0 is neutral; less than 7.0 is acidic;
and more
than
7.0 is basic.
PHASES BEAM- A beam on which each of the
ends is wound from the same depth of each of
the
bobbins on the creel. Phased beams are prepared when yarn properties vary from
the inside to
the
outside of the bobbins in order to prevent warp streakiness in the finished
fabric.
PHASE-SEPARATION SPINNING- .
SPINNING, 2.
PHENOLIC- 1. A resin or plastic made by
the condensation of a phenol with an aldehyde and
used
particularly in coatings and adhesives. 2. Containing or pertaining to
phenol.
PHENYL- A chemical radical, (C6H5-), derived from benzene. It is
the basis of many aromatic
derivatives.
PHOSPHORESCENCE- Emission of light that persists
for a noticeable time after the removal
of the
excitation source.
PHOSPHORIC ACID- An inorganic acid having the
formula (H3PO4).
PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTING- . PRINTING.
PHTHALIC ACID- An organic acid obtained by
oxidation of various benzene derivatives and
having
two adjacent (ortho) acid (COOH) groups on the benzene ring.
PICK- A single filling thread carried
by one trip of the weft-insertion device across the loom.
The
picks interlace with the warp ends to form a woven fabric. (Also . FILLING.)
PICK COUNT- The number of filling yarns per
inch or per centimeter of fabric.
PICK COUNTER- 1. A mechanical device that counts
the picks as they are inserted during
weaving.
2. A mechanical device equipped
with a magnifying glass used for counting picks
(and/or
ends) in finished fabrics.
PICKER- 1. A machine that opens staple
fiber and forms a lap for the carding process used in
the
production of spun yarns. 2. That part of the picking mechanism of the loom that actually
strikes
the shuttle.
PICKER LAP- A continuous, considerably
compressed sheet of staple that is delivered by the
picker
and wound into a cylindrical package. It is used to feed the card.
.
PICKER STICKS- The two sticks that throw the
shuttles from box to box at each end of the
raceplate
of the loom.
PICKING- 1. A process that continues the
opening and cleaning of staple and forms a
continuous
fiber sheet (or lap), which is delivered to the card. 2. The operation of passing the
filling
through the warp shed during weaving.
PICK-OUT MARK- A fillingwise band or bar
characterized by a chafed or fuzzy appearance
due to
pulled-out picks.
PICOT- 1. A small loop woven on the edge
of ribbon, or a purl on lace. A picot edge may also
be
produced by a hemstitching machine. 2. A run-resistant loop usually found at the top of
hosiery.
PIECE- A standard length of a fabric,
such as 40, 60, 80, or 100 yards.
PIECE DYEING- . DYEING.
PIECING- The joining of two or more ends
of sliver, roving, yarn, etc.
PIGMENT- An insoluble, finely divided
substance, such as titanium dioxide, used to deluster or
color
fibers, yarns, or fabrics.
PIGMENTED YARN- A dull or colored yarn spun
from a solution or melt containing a
pigment.
(Also . DYEING, Mass-Colored.)
PIGMENT PRINTING- . PRINTING.
PILE- 1. A fabric effect formed by
introducing tufts, loops, or other erect yarns on all or part of
the
fabric surface. Types are warp, filling, and knotted pile, or loops produced by
weaving an
extra
set of yarns over wires that are then drawn out of the fabric. Plain wires
leave uncut loops;
wires
with a razor-like blade produce a cut-pile surface. Pile fabric can also be
made by
producing
a double-cloth structure woven face to face, with an extra set of yarn
interlacing with
each
cloth alternately. The two fabrics are cut apart by a traversing knife,
producing two fabrics
with a
cut-pile face. Pile should not be confused with nap. Corduroys are another type
of pile
fabric,
where long filling floats on the surface are slit, causing the pile to stand
erect. 2. In
carpets,
pile refers to the face yarn, as opposed to backing or support yarn. Pile
carpets are
produced
by either tufting or weaving. (Also . CUT PILE and LOOP PILE.)
PILE CRUSH- The bending of upholstery or
carpet pile that results from heavy use or the
pressure
of furniture.
PILE WEAVE- A weave in which an additional
set of yarns, either warp or filling, floats on the
surface
and is cut to form the pile. Turkish toweling is a pileweave
fabric
with uncut loops on one or both sides.
PILE WIRE- A metal rod over which yarn is
woven to generate a
pile
fabric.
PILL- A small accumulation of fibers
on the surface of a fabric.
Pills,
which can develop during wear, are held to the fabric by an
.
entanglement
with surface fibers of the material, and are usually composed of the same
fibers
from
which the fabric is made.
PILLING- The tendency of fibers to work
loose from a fabric surface and form balled or matted
particles
of fiber that remain attached to the surface of the fabric.
PILOT- A woolen cloth generally made
in navy blue
and
used for seamen’s coats. It is usually a heavily
milled
2/2 twill with a raised, brushed finish.
PIN DRAFTING- Any system of drafting in which
the
orientation
of the fibers relative to one another in the
sliver
is controlled by pins.
PINHEAD- A small pinhead-sized opening
usually found about 10 to 12 inches from a selvage.
Pinheads
usually run in a fairly straight line along the warp and are formed by the
shuttle
pinching
the filling, causing small kinks that show up as small holes in transmitted
light.
PINHOLE- A very small hole in hosiery or
fabric.
PINION BARRÉ- A fine, fillingwise fabric
defect appearing as one or two pick bars in an even
repeat.
It is caused by a faulty loom pinion.
PIN MARK- . CLIP MARK.
PINNING- . PIN DRAFTING.
PINSONIC® THERMAL JOINING MACHINE- A rapid, efficient quilting machine that uses
ultrasonic
energy rather than conventional stitching techniques to join layers of
thermoplastic
materials.
The ultrasonic vibrations generate localized heat by causing one piece of
material to
vibrate
against the other at extremely high speed, resulting in a series of welds that
fuse the
materials
together.
PIQUÉ- 1. A medium weight to heavyweight
fabric with raised cords in the warp direction. 2. A
double-knit
fabric construction knit on multifeed circular machines.
PIRN- 1. A wood, paper, or plastic
support, cylindrical or slightly tapered, with or without a
conical
base, on which yarn is wound. 2. The double-tapered take-up yarn package from
drawtwisting
of nylon, polyester, and other melt spun yarns.
PIRN BARRÉ- A fabric defect consisting of
crosswise bars caused by unequal shrinkage of the
filling
yarn from different points on the original yarn package.
PITCH- In pile floor covering, the
average number of pile ends per
inch in
the fillingwise direction.
PLAIN-KNIT FABRIC- . FLAT-KNIT FABRIC.
PLAIN WEAVE- One of the three fundamental
weaves- plain, satin,
and
twill. Each filling yarn passes successively over and under each
warp
yarn, alternating each row.
.
PLAITING- . BRAIDING.
PLASTIC- A high polymer, usually
combined with other ingredients such as curatives,
plasticizers,
and fillers. It can be molded under heat and pressure and then machined
accurately in
its
hardened state. General term for a wide range of substances.
PLASTICIZER- 1. A chemical added to polymers
and resins to impart flexibility, workability,
or
stretchability. 2. A bonding agent that acts by solvent action on fibers.
PLATED- 1. A term to describe a fabric
that is produced from two yarns of different colors,
characters,
or qualities, one of which appears on the face and the other on the back. 2. A term to
describe
a yarn covered by another yarn.
PLEAT- Three layers of fabric
involving two folds or reversals of direction; the back fold may
be
replaced by a seam.
PLIED YARN- A yarn formed by twisting
together two or more singles yarns in one operation.
PLIED YARN DUCK- . DUCK.
PLISSÉ- A cotton, rayon, or acetate
fabric with a crinkled or pleated effect. The effect is
produced
by treating the fabric, in a striped or spotted motif, with a caustic-soda
solution which
shrinks
parts of the goods.
PLUCKING- A condition found at the feed
roll and lickerin section of the card when larger than
normal
clusters of fiber are pulled from the lap by the lickerin. This situation is
normally caused
by
uneven laps or the inability of the feed rolls to hold the lap sheet while small
clusters of fibers
are
being pulled from the lap by the lickerin. Plucking inevitably produces flaky
webs.
PLUGGING VALUE- In the manufacture of acetate
fibers, a measure of filterability. It is the
weight
of solids in an acetate dope that can be passed through a fixed area of filter
before the
filter
becomes plugged. It is expressed as weight of solids per square unit of filter
area, e.g.,
g/cm2.
PLUSH- A term describing a cut-pile
carpet in which the pile yarns are only slightly twisted,
dense,
and very evenly sheared. A plush carpet has the look of a solid, flat velvet
surface.
Similar
pile constructions are also used in upholstery fabric.
PLY- 1. The number of singles yarns
twisted together to form a plied yarn, or the number of plied
yarns
twisted together to form cord. 2. An individual yarn in a plied yarn or cord. 3. One of a
number
of layers of fabric (ASTM). 4. The number of layers of fabric, as in a shirt collar, or of
cord in
a tire.
PLYFIL®- A proprietary system of making
two-fold long-and-short staple yarns by using ultrahigh
drafting.
The slightly twisted ends produced are not useable yarns but are well suited
for
subsequent
processing, i.e., twisting.
PLYING- Twisting together two or more
singles yarns or ply yarns to form, respectively, ply
yarn or
cord.
.
PLY TWISTING- . PLYING.
POINT BONDING- . BONDING, 2.
POLYAMIDE- A synthetic polymer and the
fibers made from it in which the simple chemical
compounds
used for its production are linked together by amide linkages (-NH-CO-). (Also .
NYLON
FIBER.)
POLYARYLATE- High-temperature-resistant
aromatic polyesters from bisphenols.
POLYBENZIMIDAZOLE FIBER (PBI)- A
manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming
substance
is a long chain aromatic polymer having recurrent imidazole groups as an
integral part
of the
polymer chain. (FTC definition). The polymer is made from
tetraaminobiphenyl
and diphenyl isophthalate and is dry spun from a
dope
with dimethylacetamide as a solvent.
CHARACTERISTICS-
A high-performance fiber with high chemical
resistance
that does not burn in air. It has no melting point and does not
drip
when exposed to flame. The fiber and fabrics from PBI retain their
flexibility,
dimensional stability, and significant strength without
embrittlement
even when exposed to flame or extreme heat. The fiber
emits
little smoke in extreme conditions. It processes well on
conventional
textile equipment, having processing characteristics
similar
to polyester. It can be used in 100% form or blended with other
fibers.
It has a high moisture regain and low modulus with comfort
properties
similar to cotton. The natural color of PBI is a gold-khaki
shade,
but it can be dyed to almost any medium to dark shade with
conventional
basic dyes.
END
USES- With excellent thermal, flame, and chemical resistance,
combined
with good comfort properties, PBI is a good fiber for many
critical
uses including- firefighter’s protective apparel, aluminized
proximity
gear, industrial apparel such as pants, shirts and underwear,
protective
gloves, welder’s apparel, aircraft fire-blocking layers, aircraft
wall
fabrics, rocket motor insulation, race car driver’s apparel, and
braided
packings among others.
POLYBLENDS- . BICONSTITUENT FIBER.
POLYCHLAL FIBER- A manufactured, bicomponent
fiber of polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl
chloride.
Some vinyl chloride is grafted to the polyvinyl alcohol (Japanese Chemical
Fibers
Association
definition). The fiber is emulsion spun into tow and staple.
CHARACTERISTICS-
Polychlal fibers have a soft, lamb’s wool-like hand and moderate
moisture
regain. The fibers are also characterized by high flame resistance and high
abrasion
resistance.
END
USES- Polychlal fibers are suitable for end uses such as children’s sleepwear,
blankets,
carpets,
curtains, bedding, upholstery, nonwovens, and papermaking.
.
POLYESTER FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which
the fiber-forming substance is any long
chain
synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of dihydric
alcohol and
terephthalic
acid (FTC definition). The polymer is produced by the reaction of ethylene
glycol
and
terephthalic acid or its derivatives. Fiber forms produced are filament,
staple, and tow. The
process
of production resembles that of nylon. Polymerization is accomplished at a high
temperature,
using a vacuum by one of two methods. (1) The glycol
and a
terephthalate ester react to form a polymer chain, releasing
methanol;
or (2) the glycol and terephthalic acid react directly to form
the
polymer with water as the by-product. As with nylon, the filaments
are
spun in a melt-spinning process, then stretched several times their
original
length, which orients the long chain molecules and gives the
fiber
strength.
CHARACTERISTICS-
Polyester fibers have high strength and are
resistant
to shrinking and stretching. Fabrics are quick drying and tend
to have
wrinkle resistance and crease retention, wet and dry. Polyester
is used
alone and in blends. It has been one of the first fibers to be
developed
in fabrics with durable-press features.
END
USES- Polyester is widely used in many types of apparel fabrics
such as
textured knits and wovens, durable-press blend fabrics,
shirtings,
dress goods, rainwear, worsted-blend summer suitings,
sleepwear,
underwear, bloused, and lingerie. It is also used extensively
in
floor coverings and for tire cord and other industrial uses such as
sewing
thread. Polyester fiberfill is used in filled items such as quilted
jackets,
comforters, pillows, furniture cushions, and sleeping bags.
POLYETHERETHERKETONE FIBER (PEEK)- A manufactured
fiber
from polyetheretherketone polymer with high temperature and
chemical
resistance used in composites as a matrix material and in other
industrial
applications.
POLYETHERIMIDE FIBER (PEI)- A
manufactured fiber spun from polyetherimide polymer
having
high temperature resistance, excellent processibility, and toughness. Used for
matrix
materials
in composites and in other industrial applications.
POLYETHERSULFONE FIBER (PES)- High
molecular weight fibers from polymers
containing
sulfone (-SO2-)
groups and aromatic nuclei. They demonstrate high thermal stability
and
chemical inertness.
POLYETHYLENE FIBER- A manufactured fiber made of
polyethylene, often in monofilament
form as
well as continuous filament yarns and staple. Ethylene is polymerized at high
pressures
and the
resulting polymer is melt spun and cold drawn. It may also be dry-spun from
xylene
solution.
CHARACTERISTICS-
Polyethylene fibers have a low specific gravity, extremely low moisture
regain,
the same tensile strength wet and dry, and are resistant to attack by mildew
and insects.
These
qualities have made polyethylene fiber suitable for industrial applications,
geotextiles,
outdoor
furniture, and similar applications. Polyethylene fiber does not dye, and in
most cases, it
is
colored by the addition of pigments and dyes to the material prior to spinning.
It has a low
melting
point, a property that has restricted its use in apparel.
.
POLYIMIDE FIBER- Fully imidized, manufactured
fiber formed from the condensation
polymer
of an aromatic dianhydride and an aromatic diisocyanate. The fiber is produced
by dry
spinning.
It is a high-shrinkage fiber used in the formation of mechanically stable
nonwoven
fabrics.
These fabrics are made without binders or resins; bonding apparently results
from the
local
temperature and pressure that develop during shrinkage.
POLYMER- A high molecular weight,
chain-like structure from which manufactured fibers are
derived;
produced by linking together molecular units called monomers.
POLYMERIZATION- A chemical reaction wherein
small molecules combine to form much
larger
molecules. (Also . ADDITION POLYMERIZATION and CONDENSATION
POLYMERIZATION.)
POLYMERIZE- To undergo polymerization. To
react molecules resulting in their combining
and
forming relatively long-chain, large molecules.
POLYNOSIC FIBER- A high-wet-modulus rayon staple
having a microfibrillar structure of
fibers.
The molecular chain length of the cellulose forming the fiber is about twice as
long as in
conventional
rayon.
POLYOLEFIN FIBER- A fiber produced from a
polymerized olefin, such as polypropylene or
polyethylene.
POLYOXYAMIDE FIBER- Copolymeric fiber with good
comfort properties, particularly high
moisture
absorption and transfer, and intrinsic softness.
POLYPROPYLENE FIBER- A manufactured, olefin fiber
made from polymers or copolymers
of propylene.
Polypropylene fiber is produced by melt spinning the
molten
polymer, followed by stretching to orient the fiber molecules.
CHARACTERISTICS-
Polypropylene fibers have a number of
advantages
over polyethylene fibers in the field of textile applications.
The
degree of crystallinity, 72 to 75%, results in a fiber that is strong and
resilient,
and does not fibrillate like high-density polyethylene.
Polypropylene
has a high work of rupture, which indicates a tough fiber,
and may
be made with tenacities as high as 8.0 to 8.5 grams per denier.
The
melting point of polypropylene is 165°C, which is low by
comparison
with nylon or polyester, but is high enough to make it
suitable
for most textile applications. So light that it actually floats,
polypropylene
fiber provides greater coverage per pound than any other
fiber.
It is highly resistant to mechanical abuse and chemical attack.
END
USES- Polypropylene fibers are widely used in industrial, carpet,
and
geotextile applications. They have found important uses in fishing
gear,
in ropes, and for filter cloths, laundry bags and dye bags. The
excellent
chemical resistance of polypropylene fiber is of advantage in
the
filtration and protective clothing fields. Fibrillated polypropylene
yarns
are widely used in indoor-outdoor carpets. Staple fiber finds
application
in blankets, pile fabrics, underwear, and industrial fabrics; it
.
is
being developed for carpets, candlewicks, knitted outerwear, hand-knitting
yarns, and
upholstery.
POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLENE FIBER (PTFE)- Fluorine-containing manufactured
fibers
characterized by high chemical stability, relative inertness, and high melting
point. Made
my
emulsion spinning, a process that essentially results in fusion of fibrils by
passing an
emulsion
through a capillary, then drawing the resulting fiber. The fiber has a moderate
tensile
strength
and is particularly resistant to the effect of high temperatures and corrosive
chemicals.
Having
very low frictional coefficients, it has a slippery hand. Its principal uses
are in packaging
and
filtration media.
POLYURETHANE FIBER- . SPANDEX FIBER.
POLYVINYL ALCOHOL- A colorless, water-soluble
resin made by the hydrolysis of a
polyvinyl
ester (usually the acetate). Polyvinyl alcohol is used in textile processing as
a size,
frequently
for nylon, and in fiber manufacture as a raw material for the production of
polyvinyl
alcohol
fibers.
POLYVINYL ALCOHOL FIBER- A manufactured textile fiber
developed in Japan. It is made
by
dissolving polyvinyl alcohol in hot water and extruding this solution through a
spinneret into a
sodium
sulfate coagulating bath. In Japan, the fiber is used in apparel, household,
and industrial
fabrics.
PONGEE- 1. A thin, naturally tan-colored
silk fabric with a knotty, rough weave. 2. A cotton
fabric
made from yarns spun from fine-combed staple and finished with a high luster.
This fabric
is used
for underwear. 3. Fabrics like cotton pongee made from manufactured fibers.
PONTE DI ROMA- A common double-knit fabric
construction with a four-feed repeat produced
with
the dial and cylinder needles in interlock gaiting. The fabric is plain and
looks the same on
both
sides.
POPCORN- 1. A special-effect yarn
containing short, thick spots. 2. In polymer manufacture a
term
used to describe oversize, deformed chip.
POPLIN- A plain-weave fabric of various
fibers characterized by a rib effect in the filling
direction.
POROSITY- The ratio of the volume of air
or void
contained
within the boundaries of a material to the total
volume
(solid matter plus air or void) expressed as a
percentage.
POTASH- A common name for potassium or
potassium compounds. Generally used to mean
potassium
carbonate.
POT SPINNING- A method formerly used for
making viscose rayon. The newly spun yarn was
delivered
into the center of a rapidly rotating, centrifugal pot, where it received twist
and
centrifugal
force caused it to go to the wall of the pot. The yarn package so formed was
called a
cake.
.
POWDER-BONDED NONWOVEN- A manufactured product in which
a carded web is
produced
and treated with a thermoplastic powder that has a melting point less than that
of the
fiber
in the web. The powder is heated to its melting point by through-air and
infrared heating or
by
hot-calendering to effect bonding.
POWER FACTOR- Of an insulating material, the
ratio of the power in watts dissipated in a
capacitor
in which the material is dielectric, to the product of the sinusoidal voltage
and current
expressed
in effective volt-amperes.
POY- . PARTIALLY ORIENTED YARNS.
PRECONDITIONING- Bringing a sample or specimen
of textile material to a relatively low
moisture
content (approximate equilibrium in an atmosphere between 5 and 25% relative
humidity)
prior to conditioning in a controlled atmosphere of higher humidity for
testing. (While
preconditioning
is frequently translated as predrying, specimens should not be brought to the
overdry
state.)
PREFORM- 1. Fabrics that have been stacked
in multiple layers and bonded with a stitching
yarn or
by other means. The preform may be cut into a shape for subsequent molding into
a
composite
part. 2. A preshaped nonwoven made by distributing fibers over a screen in
the
approximate
contour of the finished part. 3. A preshaped, three-dimensional reinforcement made
via
braiding, weaving, or knitting or some combination of these. 4. A formed but not fully
consolidated
stack of prepreg layers which have the contour of the finished product. 5. The first
stage
in the production of blow-molded products such as PET bottles.
PREOXIDIZED FIBER- In carbon fiber production, a
fiber that results from a relatively lowtemperature
(200-500°C) heat treatment in the presence of oxygen which converts the
precursor
fiber,
PAN or rayon, to an infusible fiber that is stable to further processing.
PREPREG- Ready-to-mold, reinforcing
material, either fiber, fabric, or mat, that is fully
impregnated
with resin and in some cases, partially cured. Prepregs are then used by
fabricators
in
laying-up and molding composites after which curing is completed.
PRESSLEY INDEX- A measure of the strength of
fiber bundles determined under prescribed
conditions
and expressed in an arbitrary unit, pounds per milligram.
PRESSURE DROP- 1. A decrease in pressure that is
caused by friction between a flowing liquid
and a
constricting container. The pressure drop is increased by a reduction in
diameter of the
container.
2. The change in pressure across
a filter.
PRESSURE DYEING- . DYEING.
PRESSURE MARK- . FINGER MARK.
PRETENSION- The relatively low tension
applied to remove kinks and crimp when mounting a
specimen
preparatory to making a test or to a textile processing operation, etc.
PRIMARY BACKING- The material, usually woven or
nonwoven polypropylene or jute, into
which a
carpet is tufted. The primary backing allows the positioning of each tuft and
holds the
tufts
in position during processing, after which a secondary backing (q.v.) is
applied to provide
dimensional
stability.
.
PRIMARY COLORS- Magenta, yellow, and cyan (red,
yellow, blue); these are the subtractive
primaries
used when mixing dyes, paints, etc., to make all other colors. In the CIE
(Commission
Internationale
de l’Eclairage) system of color measurement, which is the international system
most
widely used today, the primary color vectors are red, green, and blue-violet.
These are
additive
primaries based on the perception of color of reflected light by the human eye.
PRIMARY CREEP- The recoverable component of creep.
(Also . DELAYED
DEFORMATION.)
PRINT- A fabric with designs applied
by means of dyes or pigments used on engraved rollers,
blocks,
or screens. (Also . PRINTING.)
PRINT BONDING- . BONDING, 2.
PRINTCLOTH- A mediumweight, plain-weave
fabric made of carded yarns, usually cotton or
polyester/cotton
blends, with counts from 28’s to 42’s. Millions of yards of printcloth are
printed
annually
and other millions are finished as white goods. Large amounts of the goods are
also
used in
the greige for bags, containers, and base fabric for coated materials.
PRINTING- A process for producing a
pattern on yarns, warp, fabric, or carpet by any of a large
number
of printing methods. The color or other treating material, usually in the form
of a paste,
is
deposited onto the fabric which is then usually treated with steam, heat, or
chemicals for
fixation.
Various types of printing are described below- (Also . DYEING.)
1. Methods of Producing Printed Fabrics-
Block Printing- The printing of fabric by hand,
using carved wooden or linoleum blocks, as
distinguished
from printing by screens or roller.
Blotch Printing- A process wherein the
background color of a design is printed rather than dyed.
Burn-Out Printing- A method of printing to obtain
a raised design on a sheer ground. The
design
is applied with a special chemical onto a fabric woven of pairs of threads of
different
fibers.
One of the fibers is then destroyed locally by chemical action. Burn-out
printing is often
used on
velvet. The product of this operation is known as a burnt-out print.
Direct Printing- A process wherein the colors
for the desired designs are applied directly to the
white
or dyed cloth, as distinguished from discharge printing and resist printing.
Discharge Printing- In “white” discharge printing,
the fabric is piece dyed, then printed with a
paste
containing a chemical that reduces the dye and hence removes the color where
the white
designs
are desired. In “colored” discharge printing, a color is added to the discharge
paste in
order
to replace the discharged color with another shade.
Duplex Printing- A method of printing a pattern
on the face and the back of a fabric with equal
clarity.
Etching- . PRINTING, Burn-Out Printing.
Extract Printings- . PRINTING, Discharge Printing.
.
Heat Transfer Printing- A method of printing fabric of
polyester
or
other thermoplastic fibers with disperse dyes. The design is
transferred
from preprinted paper onto the fabric by contact heat
which
causes the dye to sublime. Having no affinity for paper, the
dyes
are taken up by the fabric. The method is capable of producing
well-defined,
clear prints.
Ink-Jet Printing- Non-contact printing that uses
electrostatic acceleration and deflection of ink
particles
released by small nozzles to form the pattern.
Photographic Printing- A method of printing from
photoengraved rollers. The resultant design
looks
like a photograph. The designs may also be photographed on a silk screen which
is used in
screen
printing.
Pigment Printing- Printing by the use of pigments
instead of dyes. The pigments do not
penetrate
the fiber but are affixed to the surface of the fabric by means of synthetic
resins which
are
cured after application to make them insoluble. The pigments are insoluble, and
application is
in the
form of water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions of pigment pastes and resins.
The colors
produced
are bright and generally fat except to crocking.
Resist Printing- A printing method in which the
design can be produced- (1) by applying a resist
agent
in the desired design, then dyeing the fabric, in which case, the design
remains white
although
the rest of the fabric is dyed; or (2) by including a resist agent and a dye in
the paste
which
is applied for the design, in which case, the color of the design is not
affected by
subsequent
dyeing of the fabric background.
Roller Printing- The application of designs to
fabric, using a machine containing a series of
engraved
metal rollers positioned around a large padded cylinder. Print paste is fed to
the rollers
and a
doctor blade scrapes the paste from the unengraved portion of the roller. Each
roller
supplies
one color to the finished design, and as the fabric passes between the roller
and the
padded
cylinder, each color in the design is applied. Most machines are equipped with
eight
rollers,
although some have sixteen rollers.
Rotary Screen Printing- A combination of roller and
screen
printing in which a perforated cylindrical screen is
used to
apply color. Color is forced from the interior of
the
screen onto the cloth.
Screen Printing- A method of printing similar to
using a
stencil.
The areas of the screen through which the
coloring
matter is not to pass are filled with a waterproof
material.
The printing paste which contains the dye is then
forced
through the untreated portions of the screen onto
the
fabric below.
Warp Printing- The printing of a design on the
sheet of warp yarns before weaving. The filling
is
either white or a neutral color, and a grayed effect is produced in the areas
of the design.
.
2. Methods of Producing Printed Carpets-
Millitron® Process- A computer-controlled,
non-contact spray printing process that allows the
production
of intricate multicolored designs. Although this process was developed for
carpets by
Milliken
& Co., it can also be used for upholstery, pile fabrics, and other
textiles.
Mitter Printing Machine- A rotary carpet printing
machine with up to
eight
stainless-steel mesh screens, and with cylindrical squeegees of
moderately
large diameter in each rotary screen. The unit has a
streaming
zone for dye fixation.
Stalwart Printing Machine- A
carpet printing machine in which color
is
applied to the carpet with a neoprene sponge laminated to the pattern.
The
pattern is cut in a rubber base attached to a wooden roll. It is very
similar
to relief printing. Used primarily for overprinting random patterns on dyed
carpets.
Suitable
for shags and plush carpets as well as level loop and needletuft types.
Zimmer Flatbed Printing Machine (Peter Zimmer)- A carpet printing
machine
that uses flat screens and dual, metal-roll squeegees. The
squeegees
are operated by electromagnets to control the pressure applied.
The
unit also has a steamer for dye fixation. The Zimmer flatbed
machine
is normally used for carpets of low to medium pile heights.
Very
precise designs are possible, but speeds are slower than with rotary
screen
printers.
Zimmer Rotary Printing Machine (Johannes Zimmer)- A three-step,
rotary
carpet printing machine consisting of- (1) rotary screens with small
diameter
steel-roll squeegees inside, with pressure adjusted
electromagnetically
for initial dyestuff application; (2) infrared heating units to fix dyes on the
tips of
the tufts; and (3) application of low-viscosity print paste, followed by
steaming for
complete
penetration of dyes into tufts.
Zimmer Rotary Printing Machine (Peter Zimmer)- A rotary carpet printing machine in which
each
rotary screen has a slotted squeegee inside to feed print pastes through the
screens to the
carpet.
Pressure of the print paste is adjusted by hydrostatic head adjustments.
PRINT PASTE- The mixture of gum or
thickener, dye, and appropriate chemicals used in
printing
fabrics. Viscosity varies according to the types of printing equipment, the
type of cloth,
the
degree of penetration desired, etc.
PRODUCER-COLORED- . DYEING, Mass-Colored.
PRODUCER-TEXTURED YARNS- Continuous filament yarns that
have been bulked during
manufacturing
by the fiber producer. (Also . TEXTURING.)
PRODUCER TWIST- Small amounts of twist, usually
½ turn per inch or less, applied to yarns
by the
manufacturer to provide cohesion of filaments for further processing.
PROJECTILE LOOM- A shuttleless loom that uses
small, bullet-like projectiles to carry the
filling
yarn through the shed. Fill is inserted from the same side of the loom for each
pick. A
tucked
selvage is formed. (Also . WEFT INSERTION.)
.
PUCKER- Uneven surface caused by
differential shrinkage of the yarns in a fabric or differential
shrinkage
of the fabric and sewing thread. May be desirable and planned, or undesirable.
PULLED-IN FILLING- An extra thread dragged into
the shed with the regular pick and
extending
only a part of the way across the fabric.
PULP- The end product of cooking wood
chips, cotton, or some source of cellulose with water
and
appropriate chemicals. Used in the manufacture of cellulosic fibers, paper, and
other
cellulose-based
products.
PULTRUSION- The production of continuous
lengths of fiber-reinforced advanced composites.
Fibers
are fed as roving, fabric, or mat, or some combination of these, through a
resin
impregnation
process, to a forming guide, then to a heated die to produce a specific shape,
and
finally
to a puller where the structure is pulled through different forming and cooling
stages.
Thermoplastic
fibers may be substituted for the resin in the pultrusion process
.
PURL- 1. A knitting stitch that results
in horizontal ridges across the fabric. It
is made
by drawing alternate courses through each side of the fabric. 2. A picot
or
small loop that edges needlework, lace, or ribbon. Sometimes spelled pearl.
(Also .
PICOT.) 3. Coiled gold or silver thread used for embroidery.
PYROLYSIS- A chemical change brought about
by the action of heat, usually
in the
absence of a reactive medium. Complex chemical molecules are reduced
to
simpler chemical units as a result of pyrolysis.