GABARDINE: A firm, durable, warp-faced
cloth, showing a decided
twill line, usually a 45° or 63° right-hand twill.
GAITING: The spacing of the needles in the dial and cylinder in relation
to each other on rib (double-knit) and interlock knitting machines.
In rib gaiting, the dial needles are midway between the cylinder
needles. For interlock gaiting the dial and cylinder needles are in direct
alignment.
GALATEA: A sturdy, serviceable,
warp-effect, five-shaft, left-hand twill-weave fabric, frequently
cotton or a cotton blend, used for children’s play clothes.
GAMMA CELLULOSE: One of the three forms of
cellulose. With beta cellulose it is called hemicellulose.
GARNETTING: A process for reducing various
textile waste materials to fiber by passing them through
a machine called a garnett, that is similar to a card.
GAS FADING: A change of shade of dyed
fabric caused by chemical reaction between certain disperse
dyes and acid gases from fuel combustion, particularly oxides of nitrogen.
GAUGE: 1. A generic term for various
measurement instruments such as pressure or thickness gauges.
2. The number of needles per
given distance in a knitting machine. 3. The thickness of the
knitting needle in the shank and the hook. 4. The number of wales per inch
in a knit fabric. 5.
On
spinning or twisting frames, the distance from the center of one spindle to the
center of the
next
spindle in the same row.
GAUGE WIRE: Used with an extra filling yarn
during weaving, this type of standing wire
controls
the height of fabric pile.
GAUZE: A thin, sheer-woven fabric in
which each filling yarn in encircled by two
warp yarns twisted around each other, gauze is similar to cheesecloth.
It may by made of silk, cotton, wool, or manufactured fibers.
Cotton
gauze is primarily for surgical dressings.
GEL: 1. A colloid in which the
dispersed particles have combined with the continuous
phase to produce a viscous, jelly-like product. 2. Degraded polymer occurring in process
lines. Usually .n as specks in polymer or yarn.
.GEOGRID: Manufactured polymer
constructions characterized by large openings
made by one of the following methods: (1) coating woven or knit
products to form a grid; (2) welding oriented strands to form a grid; (3)
punching holes in flat sheets then drawing them to align the polymer molecules.
Used for soil stabilization, drainage, and erosion control
applications.
GEOTEXTILES: Manufactured fiber products
made into fabrics of various
constructions for use in a wide variety of civil engineering applications
including several described below.
GINGHAM: A woven fabric characterized by
a block or check effect produced by weaving in
dyed
yarns at fixed intervals in both the warp and the filling.
GLACÉ: A lustrous, glossy effect
imparted to fabrics by finishing.
GLASS TRANSITION TEMPERATURE: .
SECOND-ORDER TRANSITION
TEMPERATURE.
GLAZING: 1. A finishing process that
produces a smooth, highly polished, or lustrous surface
on a
fabric such as chintz. The fabric is treated with starch, glue, paraffin, or
shellac, then friction
calendered.
Synthetic resins are used for a more permanent finish. 2. A shiny fabric appearance
produced
unintentionally, e.g., by pressing at excessive temperature.
GLOBAL RADIATION: The wavelength distribution of
sunlight under a given environment
(e.g.,
under windowpane glass).
GODET ROLL: Roll used for transporting and
controlling the movement of bundles of fibers
and
yarns in the processing of these materials.
.
GOUT: Foreign matter that is
accidentally woven into a fabric. It is usually fly or waste that
drops
into the loom during weaving or that catches in yarns during spinning.
GRAB STRENGTH TEST: A method for measuring the
breaking strength of a fabric sample by
mounting
the sample in the tensile tester so that only a part of the width of the
specimen is
gripped
in the clamps.
GRAM BREAK FACTOR: . BREAK FACTOR.
GRAPHITE FIBER: Although the terms carbon and
graphite are used interchangeably to
describe
these fibers, graphite fibers are more accurately defined as fibers that are
99+%
carbonized
while the term carbon is used for any fiber carbonized to 93 to 95% or more. (.
CARBON
FIBER.)
GRAY FABRIC: . GREIGE FABRIC.
GREEN TACK: A term used in fabric bonding
for the preliminary bond created in the first stage
of
curing by the wet adhesive process. At this point, the bond is not fully cured
and hence is
“green.”
GREIGE FABRIC: An unfinished fabric just off
the loom or knitting machine.
GRENADINE: 1. A fine, loosely woven fabric
in leno weave made with dyed filling yarns and
having
a clipped dobby design. 2. A silk cord constructed by twisting together several twisted
strands.
GREX: 1. A unit of linear density
equal to the weight in grams of 10 kilometers of yarn,
filament,
fiber, or other textile strand. 2. The system of yarn numbering based on the use of grex
units.
(Also . YARN NUMBER.)
GREY FABRIC: . GREIGE FABRIC.
GRINNING: 1. A flaw in fabric, especially a
ribbed fabric, that occurs when warp threads show
through
the covering filling threads or when the threads have slipped leaving open
spaces on
either
side. 2. A condition that occurs when the carpet backing shows through
the pile. 3. A
printing
term referring to either poor cover where the background shade shows through the
print,
or to
the “two-tone” appearance of a shade printed with incompatible dyes.
GRIPPER LOOMS: Shuttleless looms. These looms
employ a projectile with a jaw that grips
the end
of the filling yarn during the insertion of the pick.
GROSGRAIN: A heavy fabric with prominent
ribs, grosgrain has a dressy appearance and is
used in
ribbons, vestments, and ceremonial cloths.
GROUND COLOR: A term describing the plain
background color against which a design is
created.
.
GROWTH: . SECONDARY CREEP.
GUIDE BAR: A mechanism on a warp-knitting
machine that directs warp threads to the latch
needles.
GUIDES: Fittings of various shapes for
controlling the path of a threadline.
GUILLOTINE: Cutting device that consists of
a single blade that descends between guides for
chopping
fibers, plastic strands, etc.
GUM: A term covering a wide range of
substances. Strictly, gums are carbohydrate high
polymers,
either soluble or dispersible in water, that are derived from vegetable
origins. Loosely,
the
term gum is used to mean resins, saps, natural rubber, chicle, starch,
cellulose derivatives, and
many
other products. In textile printing, the term refers to print-paste thickeners.