NAINSOOK- A fine, lightweight, plain-weave
fabric, usually of combed cotton. The fabric is
often
mercerized to produce luster and is finished soft. Nainsook is chiefly used for
infants’
wear,
lingerie, and blouses.
NAP- A downy surface given to a
cloth when part of the fiber is raised from the basic structure.
NAPHTHALENE- A solid aromatic hydrocarbon (C10H8) derived from coal tar.
Naphthalene is
used as
moth flakes and as the basis of certain dye components.
NAPHTHOL DYES- . DYES.
NAPPING- A finishing process that raises
the surface fibers of a fabric by means of passage over
rapidly
revolving cylinders covered with metal points or teasel burrs. Outing, flannel,
and wool
broadcloth
derive their downy appearance from this finishing process. Napping is also used
for
certain
knit goods, blankets, and other fabrics with a raised surface.
NARROW FABRIC- Any nonelastic woven fabric, 12
inches or less in width, having a selvage
on
either side, except ribbon and seam binding.
NATURAL FIBER- A class name for various genera
of fibers (including filaments) of- (1)
animal
(i.e., silk and wool); (2) mineral (i.e., asbestos); or (3) vegetable origin
(i.e., cotton, flax,
jute,
and ramie).
NECKING- 1. The sudden reduction in the
diameter of an undrawn
manufactured
filament when it is stretched. 2. Narrowing in width of a
fabric
or film when it is stretched.
NEEDLE- 1. A thin, metal device, usually
with an eye at one end for inserting the thread, used in
sewing
to transport the thread. 2. The portion of a knitting machine used for intermeshing the
loops.
Several types of knitting needles are available. (Also . SPRING NEEDLE and
LATCH
NEEDLE.)
3. In nonwovens manufacture, a
barbed metal device used for punching the web’s
own
fibers vertically through the web.
NEEDLE BED- Flat metal plate with slots at
regular intervals in which the knitting needles slide
on the
knitting machine.
NEEDLED FABRICS- The product of the needle loom
(q.v.). Needled fabrics are used for rug
pads,
papermaker’s felts, padding, linings, etc.
NEEDLE LOOP- A loop of yarn drawn through a
loop made previously.
NEEDLEPUNCHING- The process of converting batts
or webs of loose fibers into a coherent
nonwoven
fabric on a needle loom (q.v.).
NEEDLE SET-OUT- A term that refers to long
periods of time when certain needles are
removed
from the knitting cycle. The process is used to make sweater cuffs.
NEEDLE SLOT- A groove that houses a needle
in the cylinder or dial of a circular-knitting
machine
or the needle bed of a flat-bed machine.
NEP- A small knot of entangled
fibers that usually will not straighten to a parallel position during
carding
or drafting.
NET- An open fabric made by knotting
the intersections of thread, cord,
or wires to form meshes. Net can be made by hand or machine in a
variety of mesh sizes and weights matched to varying end uses, i.e.,
veils,
curtains, fish nets, and heavy cargo nets.
NET RATE- In a fiber production process
the total throughput less waste
and inferior or off-grade material.
NETTING- The process of knotting threads
into meshes that will not ravel.
NEUTRON-ABSORBING FIBER- Polyethylene fiber modified
with boron
used in the nuclear industry for reducing neutron transmission.
NINON- A lightweight fabric of silk or
manufactured fibers made in a plain
weave with an open mesh. Used for curtains and evening wear.
NIP- 1. The line or area of contact
between two contiguous rollers. 2. A
defect in yarn consisting of a thin place.
NIP CREASES- Creases occurring at regular
intervals along a fabric selvage subsequent to a
nipping
operation such as calendering or padding. Such creases are caused by a loosely
wound
selvage
or improper let-off tension which allows the fabric to fold over or gather at
the selvage
prior
to entering the nip of the rolls.
NOIL- A short fiber that is rejected
in the combing process of yarn manufacture.
NONELASTIC WOVEN TAPE- A woven narrow fabric, weighing
less than 15 ounces per
square
yard, made principally of natural and/or manufactured fibers, including
monofilaments,
but not
containing rubber or other similar elastic stands.
NONTORQUE YARN- . TEXTURED YARNS.
.
NONWOVEN FABRIC- An assembly of textile fibers
held together by mechanical interlocking
in a
random web or mat, by fusing of the fibers (in the case of thermoplastic
fibers), or by
bonding
with a cementing medium such as starch, glue, casein, rubber, latex, or one of
the
cellulose
derivatives or synthetic resins. Initially, the fibers may be oriented in one
direction or
may be
deposited in a random manner. This web or sheet of fibers is bonded together by
one of
the
methods described above. Normally, crimped fibers that range in length from
0.75 to 4.5
inches
are used.
Nonwoven
fabrics are used for expendable items such as hospitable sheets, napkins,
diapers,
wiping
cloths, as the base material for coated fabrics, and in a variety of other
applications. They
can
also be used for semi-disposable items and for permanent items such as
interlinings.
NOVELTY YARN- A yarn produced for a special
effect. Novelty yarns are usually uneven in
size,
varied in color, or modified in appearance by the presence of irregularities
deliberately
produced
during their formation. In singles yarns, the irregularities may be caused by
inclusion
of
knots, loops, curls, slubs, and the like. In plied yarns, the irregularities
may be effected by
variable
delivery of one or more yarn components or by twisting together dissimilar
singles yarns.
Nub and
slub are examples of novelty yarns.
NOVOLOID FIBER- A manufactured fiber containing
at least 85% by weight of a cross-linked
novolac
(FTC definition). Novoloid is flame resistant and nonmelting. Its primary use
is in
flame-protective
garments and products.
NOZZLE- 1. The spout through which
something is discharged, i.e., oil in finish application or
fibers
in web laying. 2. A term sometimes used to refer to spinnerets.
NUB YARN- A novelty yarn containing
slubs, beads, or lumps introduced intentionally.
NUCLEATION- A process by which crystals are
formed. Crystals form initially on minute
traces
of foreign substances that act as the nucleus, then grow by external
addition.
NUN’S VEILING- A soft, lightweight,
plain-weave fabric that usually comes
in black and white, nun’s veiling is a rather flimsy, open fabric but always
of high quality. It may be made from fine woolen yarn or yarns spun
from manufactured fibers such as nylon, acrylic, or polyester.
NYTRIL FIBER- A manufactured fiber containing
at least 85% by weight of a long chain
polymer
of vinylidene dinitrile [-CH2-C(CN)2-] and
having the vinylidene dinitrile group in no
less
than every other unit in the polymer chain (FTC definition). Nytril fibers have
a low
softening
point so they are most commonly used in articles that do not require pressing
such as
sweaters
and pile fabrics. They are also blended with wool to improve shrink resistance
and
shape
retention.