The diversity of the
textile and clothing industries is reflected in the many different types
of designers needed. At every stage of manufacture of textiles there are
colourists determining the fashion colours in which the fibres will be
produced, yarn designers developing yarns to meet certain requirements, knitted-fabric
designers, woven-fabric designers, carpet designers, print designers, embroidery
designers, knitwear designers, designers of women’s wear, men’s wear and
children’s wear, accessory designers, designers of casualwear, sportswear,
eveningwear, swimwear and designers for the mass market, haute couture and
designer labels, etc. The
purpose of the textile designer The role of the designer can be quite
complex but the overall purpose can be stated quite simply—the textile
designer has to design and produce, to an agreed timetable, an agreed
number of commercially viable fabric designs. Depending on the markets
that he or she is designing for, several different activities are involved
in fabric design and the number and type in which any designer is involved
will vary according to the product and production methods used, and the
type of company for which the work is done.
- Stylists Designers also put together ranges. For example a stylist might handle the development of a company’s range of printed fabrics. A range is a group of fabrics (or products) designed, developed and edited to be shown and sold to the market each season. The stylist initiates the design work, organises and directs the development and coloration of intended designs (frequently using freelance designers), and co-ordinates with manufacturing personnel to have samples made. These samples are shown to customers; the stylist then edits and finalises the group of designs that will form that season’s range. Further down the chain, buyers and merchandisers in retail organisations do much the same range-building processes.
- Colourists Some designers work purely with colour, predicting colour trends and putting together palettes of colours for specific seasons and product groups. Other colourists will work further down the design process line, colouring designs produced by other designers to create different and alternative colourways.
- Repeat artists Acompany producing printed textiles will often employ designers whose main function is to take designs and put these into a size and repeat appropriate to the intended enduse.
- Freelance Designers may work for manufacturing companies as in-house designers, or they may work independently as freelance designers. In-house designers, or as they are sometimes called staff designers, are employed by a company usually on a full-time basis, although some may be employed part-time. Often they work within a manufacturing environment, although they can also be employed by retailers and by converters. Freelance designers may either work for independent studios or through an agent, producing designs on paper for which the studio/agent receives a commission when the designs are sold to mills and converters. Alternatively, freelance designers may put together a portfolio of their designs, which they may sell directly to stylists. The work they produce for their portfolio, while it will have at least to reflect trends, will be often very much what they themselves like and want to produce. While the designer may have a view of the type of customer who will buy their designs when the design is developed, there may be no specific customer waiting to buy their work on completion. Freelance designers may also develop design work according to a stylist’s specification. For example, a freelance print designer who is particularly good at intricate florals may well be approached by a stylist to work on a specific print idea that will form part of that company’s new season’s collection. The brief may include size details, colouring details and even the type of flowers to be painted. This work will be commissioned in advance. The designer develops their paperwork with the knowledge that when it is finished there is a buyer for it. Freelance weave and knit designers will normally work on a specific project with a manufacturer. They will be commissioned to produce a range of fabrics, or, in the case of a knitwear designer, a range of knitted-garment designs. Athird type of designer found within textiles is the consultant designer.