ABNORMAL CRIMP- A relative term for crimp that is either too low or too high in frequency
and/or amplitude or that has been put into the fiber with improper angular characteristics.
ABRADED YARN- A filament yarn in which filaments have been cut or broken to create hairiness (fibrillation) to simulate the surface character of spun yarns. Abraded yarns are usually plied or twisted with other yarns before use.
ABRASION MARK- An area where a fabric has been damaged by friction.
ABRASION RESISTANCE- The ability of a fiber or fabric to withstand surface wear and rubbing.
ABSORBANCE- The ability of a substance to transform radiant energy into a different form, usually with a resulting rise in temperature. Mathematically, absorbance is the negative logarithm to the base 10 of transmittance.
ABSORBENCY- The ability of one material to take up another material.
ABSORPTION- The process of gases or liquids being taken up into the pores of a fiber, yarn, or
fabric.
ACETIC ACID- An organic acid (CH3COOH) widely used in textile applications. It is used in textile wet processing, dyeing and printing, and in the manufacture of cellulose acetate and cellulose triacetate.
ACETIC ANHYDRIDE- Anhydrous acetic acid [(CH3CO)2O]. It is used in the acetylation process in the manufacture of cellulose acetate.
ACETONE- Dimethyl ketone (CH3COCH3). One of the most powerful organic solvents. Acetone dissolves secondary cellulose acetate and other derivatives of cellulose. It is miscible with water and has a low boiling point (55-56°).
ACID-DYEABLE VARIANTS- Polymers modified chemically to make them receptive to acid
dyes.
ACIDIC- A term describing a material having a pH of less than 7.0 in water.
ACID RECOVERY- A reclamation process in chemical processing in which acid is extracted from a raw material, by-product, or waste product. In the manufacture of cellulose acetate, acetic acid is a major by-product. Acid recovery consists of combining all wash water containing appreciable acetic acid and concentrating it to obtain glacial acetic acid.
ACID RESISTANCE- The property of withstanding contact or treatment with any acids normally encountered in use. The type of acid should be stated (i.e., organic or inorganic).
ACRYLIC FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain
synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units [-CH2-CH(CN)-] (FTC definition). Acrylic fibers are produced by two basic methods of spinning (extrusion), dry and wet. In the dry spinning method, material to be spun is dissolved is a solvent. After extrusion through the spinneret, the solvent is evaporated, producing continuous filaments which later may be cut into staple, if desired. In wet spinning, the spinning solution is extruded into a liquid coagulating bath to form filaments, which are drawn, dried, and processed.
ACTION STRETCH- A term applied to fabrics and garments that give and recover in both the lengthwise and the widthwise directions. Action stretch is ideal for tight-fitting garments such as ski pants.
ACTIVATED CARBON- Charcoal, mostly of vegetable origin, of high adsorptive capacity. It is used for decolorizing liquids and other adsorption purifications. Usually made by carbonization and chemical activation.
ADDITION POLYMERIZATION- A reaction yielding a polymer in which the molecular formula of the repeating unit is identical with that of the monomer. The molecular weight of a polymer so formed is a simple sum of the molecular weight of the combined monomer units. Combination occurs by means of rearrangement of the chemical bonds.
ADDITIVE- A supplementary material combined with a base material to provide special properties. For example, pigments are used as dope additives to give color in mass dyeing.
ADHESION- The force that holds different materials together at their interface and resists separation into two layers.
ADHESION PROMOTERS- Products used to treat the smooth fiber-face of closely constructed base fabric to provide a chemical bonding site for subsequent coating. This step is done because it is difficult to get good coating adhesion via strikethrough and mechanical bonding in closely constructed fabrics. Products containing the isocyanate group are the most widely used promoters.
ADHESIVE ACTIVATED YARNS- Yarns treated by the fiber manufacturer to promote better adhesion to another material such as rubber and/or to allow easier processing.
ADHESIVE MIGRATION- In nonwovens, the movement of adhesive together with its carrier solvent in a fabric during drying, giving it a non-uniform distribution within the web, usually increasing to the outer layers.
ADHESIVES- In textiles, materials which cause fibers, yarns, or fabrics to stick together or to other materials.
ADIPIC ACID- 1,4-butanedicarboxylic acid [COOH(CH2)4COOH]. It is used in the polymerization reaction to form nylon 66 polymers and in the manufacture of polyurethane foams.
ADSORPTION- The attraction of gases, liquids, or solids to surface areas of textile fibers, yarns, fabrics, or any material.
ADVANCED COMPOSITE- Polymer, resin, or other matrix-material system in which reinforcement is accomplished via high-strength, high-modulus materials in continuous filament form or is discontinuous form such as staple fibers, fibrets, and in-situ dispersions.
AESTHETICS- In textiles, properties perceived by touch and sight, such as the hand, color,luster, drape, and texture of fabrics or garments.
AFFINITY- Chemical attraction; the tendency of two elements or substances to unite or combine, such as fiber and dyestuff.
AFTERGLOW- The flameless, glowing combustion of certain solid materials that occurs after the removal of an external source of ignition or after the cessation of combustion of the material.
AFTERTREATMENT- Any treatment done after fabric production. In dyeing, it refers to treating dyed material in ways to improve properties; in nonwovens, it refers to finishing processes carried out after a web has been formed and bonded. Examples are embossing, creping,softening, printing, and dyeing.
AGEING- 1. Deterioration of textile or other materials caused by gradual oxidation during storage and/or exposure to light.
2. The oxidation stage of alkali-cellulose in the manufacture of viscose rayon from bleached wood pulp.
3. Originally, a process in which printed fabric was exposed to a hot, moist atmosphere. Presently, the term is applied to the treatment of printed fabric in moist steam in the absence of air. Ageing is also used for the development of certain colors in dyeing, e.g., aniline black.
AGER- A steam chamber used for ageing printed or padded material.
AGGLOMERATION- A cluster of particles or fibers.
AGITATE- To stir or to mix, as in the case of a dyebath or solution.
AIR BAG- An automatically inflating bag in front of riders in an automobile to protect them from pitching forward in an accident. End use for manufactured textile fibers.
AIR BRUSHING- Blowing color on a fabric or paper with a mechanized pneumatic brush.
AIR CONDITIONING- 1. A chemical process for sealing short, fuzzy fibers into a yarn. Fabrics made from air-conditioned yarns are porous. Because they allow more air circulation, these fabrics are also cooler. 2. Control of temperature and/or humidity in work or living space.
AIR FORMING- A process in which air is used to separate and move fibers to fashion a web such as the Kroyer® process for short fibers, usually of wood pulp; or the Rando-Webber® process for staple-length fibers.
AIR JET SPINNING- A spinning system in which yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air. In this process, the fibers are drafted to appropriate sliver size, then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted, first in one direction, then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. They are stabilized after each twisting operation.
AIR-LAID NONWOVENS- Fabrics made by an air-forming process (q.v.). The fibers are distributed by air currents to give a random orientation within the web and a fabric with isotropic properties.
AIR PERMEABILITY- The porosity or the ease with which air passes through material. Air permeability determines such factors as the wind resistance of sailcloth, the air resistance of parachute cloth, and the efficacy of various types of air filters. It also influences the warmth or coolness of a fabric.
AIRPLANE FABRIC- A plain, tightly woven, water-repellent fabric traditionally made of mercerized cotton. During World War I, the fabric was treated with a cellulose acetate dope and used to cover the wings, tail, and fuselage of airplanes. Today, similar fabrics made from nylon or polyester/cotton blends are used in rainwear and sportswear.
AIR-SUPPORTED ROOF- A fabric-based roofing system that is supported and held in place by air pressure.
ALBATROSS- A soft, lightweight wool or wool blend fabric in a plain weave with a napped, fleecy surface that resembles in texture, the breast of the albatross. It is usually light-colored and is used in negligees, infants’ wear, etc.
ALGINATE FIBER- Fiber formed from a metallic salt (normally calcium) of alginic acid, which is a natural polymer occurring in seaweed. Alginate fiber is soluble in water.
ALKALINE- A term used to describe a material having a pH greater than 7.0 in water.
ALKYLATION- The introduction of an alkyl radical into an organic molecule.
ALLOY- A solid or liquid mixture of two or more metals; or of one or more metals with certain nonmetallic elements formed by fusing the components.
ALPACA- 1. Long, fine hair from Alpaca sheep. 2. A fabric from alpaca fibers or blends,(originally a cotton cloth with alpaca filling) that is used for dresses, coats, suits, and sweaters. It is also used as a pile lining for jackets and coats. (The term has been incorrectly used to describe
a rayon fabric.)
ALPACA STITCH- A 1 x 1 purl-links stitch that is knit so that the courses run vertically instead of horizontally as the fabric comes off the knitting machine. A garment made with an alpaca stitch is not always
100% alpaca; it can be made of other natural or manufactured fibers.
ALPHA CELLULOSE- One of three forms of cellulose. Alpha cellulose has the highest degree of polymerization and is the chief constituent ofpaper pulp and chemical dissolving-grade pulp.
ALSIMAG®- Registered trademark of American Lava Corporation for ceramic materials. These materials are used in guides and discs on textile processing machines and fiber manufacturing equipment.
ALTERNATING TWIST- A texturing procedure in which S and Z twist are alternately inserted
in the yarn by means of a special heating arrangement.
AMINE END GROUP- The terminating (-NH2) group of a nylon polymer chain. Amine end groups provide dye sites for polyamides.
AMORPHOUS- Noncrystalline, lacking regular geometrical shape. Used to describe certain regions in polymers.
ANGORA- 1. The hair of the Angora goat. The long, fine fibers are so smooth and soft that they must be combined with other fibers in weaving.
2. The hair of the Angora rabbit. The fine,lightweight hair is warm, and it is often blended with wool to decrease price and to obtain novelty effects in weaving. By law, the fiber must be described as Angora rabbit hair.
ANHYDRIDE- A compound formed by abstraction of water, usually from an acid. Example-
acetic anhydride, which is used in converting cellulose to cellulose acetate.
ANIDEX FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 50% by weight of one or more esters of a monohydric alcohol and acrylic acid, (CH2=CH-COOH) (FTC definition).
ANIMAL FIBERS- Fibers of animal origin such as wool, alpaca, camel hair, and silk.
ANISOTROPIC- Not having the same physical properties in every direction. In the plane of a
fabric, it is related to a non-random distribution of fibers.
ANTIBACTERIAL FINISH- A treatment of a textile material to make it resistant to, or to
retard growth of, bacteria.
ANTICHLOR- A chemical, such as sodium thiosulfate, used to remove excess chlorine after
bleaching.
ANTIFELTING AGENTS- Products that prevent or minimize matting and compaction of
textile materials.
ANTIFOAMING AGENT- An additive that minimizes the formation of bubbles within or on
the surface of a liquid by reducing the forces that support the bubble’s structure.
ANTIOXIDANT- A substance to retard deterioration (of fiber, fabrics, finishes, etc.) resulting
from reaction with oxygen.
ANTISOILING PROPERTIES- The properties of textile materials whereby they resist
deposition of dirt and stains.
ANTISTAINING PROPERTIES- The ability of a textile to resist the deposition of oil- or
water-borne stains.
ANTISTATIC PROPERTIES- The ability of a textile material to disperse an electrostatic
charge and to prevent the build up of static electricity.
APPLIQUE- A design made separately and then sewn on a cloth or garment.
ARACHNE MACHINE- A machine for producing loop-bonded nonwovens. The fabric is
formed by knitting a series of warp yarns through a fiber web processed on a card.
ARAMID FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming material is a long chain
synthetic polyamide having at least 85% of its amide linkages (-NH-CO-) attached directly to two
aromatic rings (FTC definition).Aramid fibers exhibit low flammability, high strength, and high modulus. Fabrics made from aramid fibers maintain their integrity at high temperatures, such fabrics are used extensively inhot-air filters. Aramids are also found in protective clothing, ropes and cables, and tire cord.
ARGYLE- A pattern consisting of diamond shapes of different colors knit in a fabric.
ARTIFICIAL TURF- A manufactured carpet having the appearance of grass. Used to replace
grass in sports arenas, yards, etc.
ART LINEN- A plain-weave, softly finished fabric used either bleached or unbleached as a base
fabric for needlework.
ASBESTOS- A nonmetallic mineral fiber, which is nonflammable. The fiber is woven into fabrics and used for theater curtains and industrial uses where flame-resistant materials are
needed.
ASPECT RATIO- 1. The ratio of length to diameter of a fiber or yarn bundle. 2. In tire production, the ratio of the height of the tire to its width. 3. In a rectangular structure, the ratio of
the longer dimension to the shorter.
ASTRAKHAN CLOTH- A thick knit or woven fabric with loops or curls on the face. The base
yarns are usually cotton or wool and the loops are made with fibers such as mohair, wool, and
certain manufactured fibers. The face simulated the pelt of the astrakhan lamb.
ATACTIC POLYMER- A type of polymer molecule in which substituent groups or atoms are arranged randomly above and below the backbone chain of atoms, when the latter are all in the same plane (e.g., in polypropylene).
ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS- In general, the relative humidity, barometric pressure, and temperature existing at a given time.
ATTRITION MILLS- Machines for reducing materials into smaller particles by grinding down
by friction. In the manufacture of acetate and triacetate fibers, equipment used in shredding pulp
prior to acetylation.
AUTOCLAVE- 1. An apparatus for carrying out certain finishing operation, such as pleating and heat setting, under pressure in a superheated steam atmosphere. 2. Apparatus for polymerizing condensation polymers such as nylon or polyester at any pressure above or below atmospheric.
AVERAGE STIFFNESS- The ratio of change in stress to change in strain between two points
on a stress-strain diagram, particularly the points of zero stress and breaking stress.
AXIAL YARN- A system of longitudinal yarns in a triaxial braid that are inserted between bias
yarns.
AXMINSTER CARPET- A machine-woven carpet in which successive weft-wise rows of pile are inserted during weaving according to a predetermined arrangement of colors. There are four main types of
Axminster looms- Spool, Gripper, Gripper-Spool, and Chenille.
AZLON FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance consists of any regenerated naturally occurring proteins (FTC definition). Azlon is not currently produced in the United States.