SAILCLOTH- Any heavy, strongly made woven
canvas of cotton, linen, jute, polyester, nylon, aramid,
etc., that is used for sails. Laminated fabrics are also finding use in this
market. Sailcloth is used
for apparel, particularly sportswear.
SAND- Used as a filter medium in
fiber manufacture, particularly used in
spinning packs for nylon or polyester production.
SANDWICH BLEND- A method of preparing fiber
mixtures by layering
them horizontally in alternating layers with all elements in the
proper proportion. Vertical sections are cut and fed to the next machine
in the process, where blending is effected.
SANFORIZED- A trademark of Cluett, Peabody
& Co., Inc., denoting a controlled standard of shrinkage
performance. Fabrics bearing this trademark will not shrink more
than 1% because they have been subjected to a method of compressive
shrinkage involving feeding the fabric between a stretched
blanket and a heated shoe. When the blanket is allowed to retract,
the cloth is physically forced to comply.
SANFOR-SET- A trademark of Cluett, Peabody
& Co., Inc., denoting
a controlled standard of shrinkage performance originally developed
for denims. Fabrics bearing this trademark will not shrink under
home-wash, tumble-dry conditions because they have been subjected
to a liquid ammonia treatment and compressive shrinkage.
SAPONIFICATION- Specifically in relation to
manufactured fibers, saponification is the process
of removing part or all of the groups from acetate or triacetate fiber, leaving
regenerated cellulose.
SARAN FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which
the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic
polymer composed of at least 80% by weight of vinylidene chloride units (-CH2-CCl2-) (FTC
definition). Saran fiber has excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering
and is used in lawn
furniture, upholstery, and carpets.
SASE- Acronym for stress at specified
elongation; the stress experienced by a yarn or cord at a given
elongation.
SATEEN- A cotton fabric made in a satin
weave.
SATIN WEAVE- One of the basic weaves, plain,
satin, and twill. The face of
the fabric consists almost completely of warp or filling floats produced
in the repeat of the weave. The points of intersection are distributed
evenly and widely separated as possible. Satin-weave fabric has a
characteristic smooth, lustrous surface and has a considerably greater number
of yarns in the set of threads, either warp or filling, that forms the face
than in the other set.
SATURATION- 1. The maximum intensity or purity
of a color. If the color is as brilliant as possible,
it is at saturation; if the color is subdued or grayed, it is dull, weak, and
low in intensity. 2. The upper limit concentration
of a solute in a solvent, i.e., no more solute can be dissolved at a fixed
temperature and pressure.
SATURATION VALUE- The maximum amount of dye that
can be absorbed by a textile fibe under
defined conditions.
SAXONY- 1. A high-grade fabric for coats,
made from Saxony Merino wool. 2. A soft woolen with
fancy yarn effects, used in sport-coat fabric. 3. A highly twisted worsted
knitting yarn. 4. A term
describing a cut-pile carpet having highly twisted, evenly sheared, medium-length
pile yarns.
SALLOPED SELVAGE- A fabric defect consisting of
an abrupt, narrow place along the selvage.
Principal cause is the failure of the clip on the tenter frame to engage or
hold the fabric.
SCHAPPE- A yarn from partly degummed
silk waste
SCORCHING- The tendering of a fiber
surface by heat so as to change the color and texture of the
surface.
SCOURING- An operation to remove the
sizing and tint used on the warp yarn in weaving and, in
general, to clean the fabric prior to dyeing.
SCREEN- 1. A hollow, cylindrical,
coarse-mesh wire device used in pickers and certain openers to form
the loose staple stock into a sheet, or lap. The screen is mounted horizontally
on a shaft on
which it revolves freely. 2. A stencil used in screen printing. It is made of fine cloth,
usually of silk
or nylon, finely perforated in areas to form a design and mounted on a frame.
The paste containing
the dye is forced through the perforations onto the fabric, leaving the design.
A series of
screens, one for each color, is used for multicolored designs. (Also .
PRINTING.)
.
SCREW FEEDS- Feed systems in which the
action of the screw generates pressure that causes flow.
The system usually consists of a container with a closely fitting screw unit.
SCREW MELTER- 1. Screw extruder in which
frictional forces between the screw and the heated
barrel contribute to rapid melting of solid polymer. This configuration is
capable of high throughput.
2. System in which a screw feed is
used to feed polymer to a melt grid and to maintain
a constant pressure at the grid.
SCRIM- 1. A lightweight, open-weave,
coarse fabric; the best qualities are made with two-ply yarns.
Cotton scrim usually comes in white, cream, or ecru and is used for window
curtains and as
backing for carpets. 2. Fabric with open construction used as base fabric in the
production of coated
or laminated fabrics.
SCROOP- The sound of rustle or crunch
that is characteristic of silk. Scroop is a natural
property
of silk, but may be induced in other fabrics to a degree by various treatments.
SCULPTURED- A term describing a carpet with
areas of contrasting depth produced by mixing
cut
pile and loops.
SEAMING- Joining the overlap of two
pieces of fabric, usually near their edges.
SEAMLESS- A term that describes a tubular
knit fabric without seams, e.g., seamless hosiery.
SEAM MARK- A particular type of pressure
mark in the finished fabric. It is produced during
finishing
operations by the thickness of the seam used to join pieces for processing.
SEAM SLIPPAGE- A defect consisting of
separated yarns occurring when sewn fabrics pull
apart
at the seams. Seam slippage is more prone to occur in smooth-yarn fabrics
produced from
manufactured
filament yarns.
SEAM WELDING- Any stitchless procedure for
joining fabrics based on the use of
thermoplastic
resins or the direct welding of thermoplastic materials. Seam welding is an
alternative
to conventional needle-and-thread seaming operations that is extremely popular
in the
nonwoven
field.
SECANT MODULUS- The ratio of change in stress
to change in strain between two points on a
stress-strain
diagram, particularly the points of zero stress and breaking stress.
SECONDARY BACKING- A layer of material, usually
woven jute, polypropylene, vinyl, or
latex
foam, laminated to the underside of a carpet to improve body and dimensional
stability.
.
SECONDARY COLORS- Green, orange, and violet, each
of which is obtained by mixing two
primary
colors.
SECONDARY CREEP- The nonrecoverable component of
creep. (Also . DELAYED
DEFORMATION.)
SECOND-ORDER TRANSITION TEMPERATURE- The temperature at which the
noncrystalline
(amorphous) portions of polymer melt or become plastic. An inflection point or
change
is stress-strain properties occurs at this point; however, for most fibers, this
change is
small.
SECONDS- 1. Imperfect fabrics (woven or
knitted) containing flaws in the weave, finish, or
dyeing,
and sold as “seconds.” 2. . YARN QUALITY.
SECTION BEAM- 1. A large, flanged roll upon
which warp yarn is wound at the beam warper
in preparation
for slashing. 2. Small flanged or unflanged beams assembled side-by-side on the
shaft
of a warp beam for further processing.
SECTION MARK- A fabric defect consisting of
marks running warpwise in an evenly repeating
pattern,
caused by the improper setting of sections in silk system (or indirect)
warping.
RSUCKER- Lightweight fabric, made of
cotton or manufactured fiber, having crinkled
stripes
made by weaving some of the warp threads slack and others tight. Woven .rsucker
is
more
expensive than imitations made by chemical treatment.
SELF-TWIST YARN- An inherently twist-stable,
two-ply structure having a ply twist that is
alternately
S- and Z-directed along the yarn.
SELVAGE or SELVEDGE- The narrow edge of woven fabric
that runs parallel to the warp. It
is made
with stronger yarns in a tighter construction than the body of the fabric to
prevent
raveling.
A fast selvage encloses all or part of the picks, and a selvage is not fast
when the filling
threads
are cut at the fabric edge after every pick.
SEQUESTRANT- Any compound that will
inactivate a metallic ion by forming a water-soluble
complex
in which the metal is held in a nonionizable form. This results in prevention
of the usual
precipitation
reactions of the metal.
SERGE- Any smooth-faced cloth made
with a two-up and two-down twill weave.
SERGING- 1. Overcasting the cut edge of a
fabric to prevent raveling. 2. Finishing the edge of a
carpet
by oversewing rather than binding. Generally, the sides of a carpet are serged
and the ends
bound.
SERICIN- Silk gum. The gelatinous
protein that cements the fibroin filaments in a silk fiber. It
is
removed in the process called degumming.
.
SERVED YARN- In aerospace textiles, a
reinforcing yarn such as graphite
or glass around which two different yarns are wound, i.e., one in the
Z direction and one in the S direction, etc., for protection or
compaction
of the yarn bundle.
SET MARK- A fabric defect consisting of
narrow bars or bands across the
full width of the fabric that may appear either as a tight, loose, or corduroy
effect caused by loom stops improperly reset by the weaver.
Set
marks are sometimes caused by the weaver ripping out filling yarn and
then not properly adjusting the pick wheel to obtain the proper relation
between the fell of the cloth and the reed.
SET POINT- An input in process control
that defines the desired value or range of values of the variable
that is being controlled.
SET YARNS- False-twist yarns stabilized to
produce bulk.
SEYDEL CONVERTER- Tow-to-top processing
equipment. Seydel combines the prestretching
and breaking process in one machine.
S-FINISHING- A finishing process applied to
acetate and triacetate fabrics using a sodium hydroxide
solution to give surface saponification; i.e., the fiber “skin” is converted to
cellulose. It
improves the hand and reduces the tendency to acquire a static charge.
SHADE BAR- . MIXED END and FILLING.
SHADECLOTH- A plain-weave cotton or linen
fabric that is heavily sized and is often given oil treatment
to make it opaque. The fabric is used for curtains and shades.
SHADED FILLING- A defect consisting of a bar
running across the fabric caused by a difference
in appearance of the filling yarn, and occurring at a quill change or knot.
SHADING- In cut-pile fabrics, an apparent
change in color when the pile is bent, caused by differences
in the way light is reflected off the bent fibers. This phenomenon is a
characteristic of pile
fabrics, not a defect.
SHADOW PRINTING- . PRINTING, Warp Printing.
SHAFT- 1. A term often used with
reference to satins indicating the number of harnesses employed
to produce the weave. 2. . HARNESS.
SHAFT MARK- A fabric defect characterized
by a number of floating ends, usually caused by a broken
harness strap on the loom.
SHAG CARPET- A loosely tufted carpet
construction with cut pile 1 to 5 inches in length and with
greater than normal spacing between tufts.
SHANTUNG- Plain-weave fabric with
unevenly ribbed surface and crisp texture.
.
SHARKSKIN- 1. A hard-finished, twill fabric,
woolen or worsted, made of simple weaves with
a
two-color arrangement of warp and filling yarns. 2. A plain-weave sportswear fabric
made of
dull-luster
acetate or triacetate yarns.
SHEARING- A dry finishing operation in
which projecting
fibers are mechanically cut or trimmed from the
face of
the fabric. Woolen and worsted fabrics are almost always
sheared. Shearing is also widely employed on other fabrics,
especially on napped and pile fabrics where the amount
varies according to the desired height of the nap or pile.
For flat-finished fabrics such as gabardine, a very close shearing
is given.
SHEATH-CORE FIBERS- Bicomponent fibers of either
two polymer types, or two
variants of the same polymer. One polymer forms a core and the other surrounds
it as a sheath.
SHED- A path through and
perpendicular to the warp in the loom. It is formed by
raising some warp threads by means of their harnesses while others are left down.
The shuttle passes through the shed to insert the filling.
SHEDDING- 1. The operation of forming a shed
in weaving. 2. A loss of nominal length staple at any
process in a staple yarn plant.
SHEERS- Transparent, lightweight
fabrics of different constructions and yarns, especially those of silk
and manufactured fibers. Examples are chiffons, some crepes, georgette, and
voile.
SHIER- A short length of a single pick
that appears to be cut out of the plane of the fabric.
SHINER- A relatively short streak
caused by a lustrous section of a filament yarn. The principal cause
is excessive tension applied to a yarn during processing.
SHOE FOLD- A manner of folding fabric. The
piece is folded from both ends into twelve or sixteen
folds. The length of the fold depends upon the length of the piece.
SHOGGED STITCH- . RACKED STITCH.
SHORT-CUT STAPLE- Staple fiber less than
0.75-ingh long. Typically used in wet-laid nonwoven processes to make fabrics, or as reinforcement in plastics, concrete, asphalt,
and other materials.
SHORT-LIQUOR DYEING- . DYEING.
SHOT- In woven pile floor coverings,
the number of filling yarns per row of tufts.
SHREDDING- The separation of compressed
fibers in pulp sheets prior to acetylation in acetate manufacture.
.
SHRINKAGE- Widthwise or lengthwise
contraction of a fiber, yarn, or fabric, usually after wetting
a redrying or on exposure to elevated temperature.
SHRINKAGE FORCE- The force generated by
thermoplastic materials when they are subjected
to
elevated temperatures.
SHUTTLE- A boat-shaped device, usually
made of wood with a metal
tip that carries filling yarns through the shed in the weaving process.
It is the most common weft-insertion device. The shuttle
holds a
quill, or pirn, on which the filling yarn is wound. It is equipped
with an eyelet at one end to control rate. The filling yarn is furnished
during the weaving operation.
SHUTTLE CHAFE MARK- A fabric defect that is usually
.n as groups
of short, fine lines across the fabric, often running for some distance
in the piece and usually in the same area. Although these
marks
run in the direction of the filling, they are actually caused by the
shuttle rubbing across and damaging the warp ends, producing a dull,
chalky appearance.
SHUTTLELESS LOOM- A loom in which some device
other then a shuttle is used for weft
insertion.
(Also . LOOM and WEFT INSERTION.)
SILICONE- One of a group of polymeric
organic silicon compounds obtained as oils, greases, or
plastics
and applied to textile material as water- and heat-resistant lubricants and
finishes.
SILK FIBER- A fine, strong, continuous
filament produced by the larva of certain insects,
especially
the silkworm, when constructing its cocoons. The silkworm secretes the silk as
a
viscous
fluid from two large glands in the lateral part of the body. The fluid is
extruded through a
common
spinneret to form a double filament cemented together. This double silk
filament, which
is
composed of the protein fibroin, ranges in size from 1.75 to 4.0 denier,
depending upon the
species
of worm and the country of origin. The filament of the cocoon is softened and
loosened
by
immersion in warm water and is then reeled off. Although raw silk contains 20
to 30% of
sericin,
or silk glue, and is harsh and stiff, silk is soft and white when all of the
glue has been
removed
by steeping and boiling in soap baths. Ecru is harsher, as it has only about 5%
of the
sericin
removed. Silk is noted for its strength, resiliency, and elasticity. The major
sources of
commercial
silk are Japan and China.
SIMULATED SPUN YARNS- Filament yarns that have been
modified to have aesthetics
similar
to those of spun yarns. Simulated spun yarn have looped or hairy surfaces.
SINGEING- The process of burning off
protruding fibers from yarn or fabric by passing it over a
flame
or heated copper plates. Singeing gives the fabric a smooth surface and is
necessary for
fabrics
that are to be printed and for fabrics where smooth finishes are desired.
SINGLE-KNIT FABRIC- Also called plain knit, a
fabric constructed with one needle bed and
one set
of needles.
SINGLES YARN- The simplest strand of textile
material suitable for operations such as weaving
and
knitting. A singles yarn may be formed from fibers with more or less twist;
from filaments
.
with or
without twist; from narrow strips of material such as paper, cellophane, or
metal foil; or
from
monofilaments. When twist is present, it is all in the same direction. (Also .
YARN.)
SINGLING- A yarn defect caused by the
breaking of one or more strands in a plying operation
with
resulting unevenness in the finished product.
SINKER- In weave design, a blank square
indicating a filling thread over a warp thread at the
point
of intersection.
SINTERING- Forming a bonded mass or fiber
by heating the constituents of the mass or fiber
without
melting.
SISAL- A strong, white, bast fiber
produced from leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in
Central
America, West Indies, and Africa. Sisal is used chiefly for cordage and twine.
SIZE MARK- A fabric defect that consists
of a rough or frosted spin caused by uneven
application
or drying of the size.
SIZING- 1. A generic term for compounds
that are applied to warp yarn to bind the fiber together
and
stiffen the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during weaving. Starch,
gelatin, oil, wax, and
manufactured
polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene, polyacrylic acid, and
polyacetates
are
employed. 2. The process of applying sizing compounds. (Also . SLASHING.) 3. The
process
of weighing sample lengths of yarn to determine the count.
SKEIN- A continuous strand of yarn or
cord in the form of a collapsed coil. It may be of any
specific
length and is usually obtained by winding a definite number of turns on a reel
under
prescribed
conditions. The circumference of the reel on which yarn is wound is usually 45
to 60
inches.
(Also . HANK.)
SKEIN BREAK FACTOR- The comparative breaking load
of a skein of yarn adjusted for the
linear
density of the yarn expressed in an indirect system. It is the product of the
breaking load of
the
skein and the yarn number expressed in an indirect system (e.g., pounds times
cotton count).
A
statement of the skein break factor must indicate the number or wraps in the
skein, if this is not
otherwise
apparent. Without specifying the number of wraps, a statement of the skein
break
factor
is meaningless.
SKEIN BREAKING TENACITY- The skein breaking load divided
by the product of the yarnnumber
in a direct numbering system and the number of strands placed under the tension
(twice
the
number of wraps in the skein); preferably expressed in newtons per tex.
SKEWNESS- The distance measured parallel
to and along a selvage between the
point at which a filling yarn meets this selvage and a perpendicular to the selvage
from the point at which the same filling yarn meets the other selvage. Skewness
may be expressed directly in inches or as a percentage of the width of
the
fabric at the point of measurement.
SLACK END- An end woven under insufficient
tension.
.
SLASHING- A process of sizing warp yarns
on a slasher. (Also . SIZING, 1, and SLASHER.)
SLEAZY- Thin, lacking firmness,
open-meshed; usually describes poor-grade fabrics.
SLEEVING- A braided, knit, or woven
product or fabric in tubular or cylindrical form that is
less
than 4 inches in width (i.e., 8 inches in circumference).
SLEY- The number of warp yarns per
inch in a woven cloth on or off the loom.
SLIDE WASTE- A yarn defect that is similar
in appearance to a slub. It consists of a mass of
fiber
encircling the yarn end and can be slid freely along the end.
SLIPPAGE- Sliding or slipping of the
filling threads over the warp ends (or vice versa), which
leaves
open spaces in the fabric. Slippage results from a loose weave or unevenly
matched warp
and
filling.
SLIT-FILM YARN- Yarn of a flat, tape-like
character produced by slitting an extruded film.
SLIT TAPE- A fabric, 12 inches or less in
width, made by cutting wider fabric to the desired
width.
Slit tapes are made primarily of cotton, linen, jute, glass, or asbestos and
are used
principally
for functional purposes.
.
SLIVER- A continuous strand of loosely
assembled fibers without twist. Sliver is delivered by
the
card, the comber, or the drawing frame. The production of sliver is the first
step in the textile
operation
that brings staple fiber into a form that can be drawn (or reduced in bulk) and
eventually
twisted into a spun yarn.
SLIVER KNITTING- Circular knitting coupled with
the drawing-in of a sliver by the needles to
produce
a pile-like fabric, usually for high-pile coats or heavy linings.
SLOUGHED FILLING- . LOOPED FILLING.
SLUB- A yarn defect consisting of a
lump or thick place on the yarn caused by lint or small
lengths
of yarn adhering to it. Generally, in filament yarn, a slub is the result of
broken filaments
that
have stripped back from the end to which they are attached.
SLUBBER- A machine used in textile
processes prior to spinning that reduces the sliver and
inserts
the first twist.
SLUBBING- The product of the slubber, it
is the intermediate stage between sliver and roving.
SLUBBING FRAME- . SLUBBER.
SLUB CATCHER- A mechanical or electronic
device designed to aid in the detection and
removal
of slubs or neps in yarns, usually during coning.
SLUB YARN- Any type of yarn that is
irregular in diameter; the irregularity may be purposeful
or the
result of error. (Also . NOVELTY YARN, NUB YARN, and SLUB.)
SLUG- A thick place in a yarn or a
piece of lint entangled in yarn, cord, or fabric.
SLURRY- A watery or solvent suspension;
e.g., titanium dioxide mixed with water for addition
to
polymers.
SMASH- 1. A relatively large hole in
fabric characterized by many broken warp ends and
floating
picks. One cause is the breaking of one or both harness straps, permitting the
harness to
drop
and break out warp ends. 2. The breaking of many yarn ends in a beaming operation,
usually
as a result of mechanical failures.
SMOKE CHAMBER TEST- . FLAMMABILITY TESTS.
SMOULDERING- A slow, flameless, smoking
burning of a fabric.
SNAG- A pulled thread in knits. It is
in the wale direction in warp knits and in the course
direction
in weft knits.
SNARL- A short length of warp or
filling yarn that has twisted on itself because of lively twist or
insufficient
tension. The snarling may occur during or prior to the weaving process.
SOAKING- Treatment of rayon yarns in a
lubricating and sizing solution preparatory to hard
twisting.
SOAP- The detergent obtained by the
formation of a sodium or potassium salt of a fatty acid or
mixture
of fatty acids.
SOFTENER- 1. A product designed to impart a
soft mellowness to the fabric. Examples are
glucose,
glycerine, tallow, or any one of a number of quaternary ammonium compounds. 2. A
substance
that reduces the hardness of water by removing or sequestering the calcium and
magnesium
ions. 3. A substance used to reduce friction during mixing and processing
when dry
powders
are added to polymers.
SOFTENING POINT- The temperature at which
substances without a sharp melting point
change
from viscous to plastic flow.
SOIL BURIAL TEST- A test of resistance of textile
material to certain microorganisms present
in
soil. The samples are buried in soil for an extended period, then removed and
measured for
strength
loss.
SOILING- The staining or smudging of
textile materials resulting from the deposit of dirt, oil
undesirable
dye, etc.
SOLID-STATE POLYMERIZATION- Reaction
of the active end-groups within a solid
polymer.
It may be intentional as in heating and drying nylon 66 to increase the final
degree of
polymerization;
or it may be undesirable such as that which occurs in fibers under
hightemperature
conditions
in tires that leads to increased degree of polymerization, cross-linking, and
subsequent
brittleness and loss of strength.
SOURING- Any treatment of textile
materials in dilute acid. Its purpose is the neutralization of
any
alkali that is present.
SPANDEX FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which
the fiber-forming substance is a long chain
synthetic
polymer composed of at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane (FTC definition).
CHARACTERISTICS-
Spandex is lighter in weight, more durable, and more supple than
conventional
elastic threads and has between two and three times their restraining power.
Spandex
is extruded in a multiplicity of fine filaments which immediately form a
monofilament.
It can
be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking and still recover instantly
to its
original
length. It does not suffer deterioration from oxidation as is the case with
fine sizes of
rubber
thread, and it is not damaged by body oils, perspiration, lotions, or
detergents.
.END
USES- Spandex is used in foundation garments, bathing suits, hose, and
webbings.
SPECIFIC GRAVITY- Ratio of the mass of a material
to the mass of an equal volume of water
at 4°C. The range for modern fibers is not too great and is dependent
to some extent on the liquid
used as
an immersant in measurements, because of fiber swelling and of possible
absorption of
liquid
into fiber voids.
SPECK- 1. A contaminant in polymer such
as gels, metal, or dirt that shows up as a dark spot. 2.
A small
particle of foreign substance that has not been removed from the stock before
spinning.
SPECKING- The removal of burrs, knots,
and other objects that impair the finished appearance
of
woolens and worsteds.
SPECKY- A term used to describe dyed
woolen fabric with specks of undyed vegetable matter
on the
face. The specks can be removed by carbonizing or covered by speck dyeing.
SPECTROGRAPH- A spectroscope equipped with a
camera or some other device for recording
the
spectrum. (Also . SPECTROSCOPE.)
SPECTROMETER- An instrument for identifying
and comparing materials by the dispersing of
light
and the study of the spectra formed.
SPECTROPHOTOMETER- An instrument used to measure
the transmission or reflectance of
light
as a function of wavelength.
SPECTROSCOPE- An instrument for forming a
spectrum for visual examination.
SPECTROSCOPY- The identification of materials
by the analysis of their spectra.
SPHERULITE- A common form of polymer
crystallization from meltsor
concentrated solutions. These crystallites show a radial symmetry from a
central point and have a distinctive maltese cross pattern of
birefringence
under the polarizing microscope.
SPINDLE- A slender, upright, rotating
rod on a spinning frame, roving frame,
twister, winder, or similar machine. A bobbin is placed on the spindle
to receive the yarn as the spindle is rotated at high speed.
SPIN-DRAWING- 1. The reduction of roving during
spinning by a roller drafting
mechanism similar to that used on the roving frame. 2. Combined spinning
and drawing in one operation in melt-spun fibers.
SPINNERET- A metal disc containing
numerous minute holes used in manufactured
fiber extrusion. The spinning solution or melted polymer is forced
through the holes to form the fiber filaments.
.
SPINNING SOLUTION- A solution of a fiber-forming
polymer (e.g., cellulose acetate) in a suitable
condition to be extruded by either dry spinning or wet spinning.
SPINNING TWIST- The twist added to yarn during
spinning to give it strength and other
desired
characteristics.
SPIRAL YARNS- Specialty yarn made by winding
heavier, slackly twisted
yarn around a finer yarn with a hard twist to give a slubby appearance.
SPLICING- 1. The joining of two ends of yarn
or cordage. There are several methods used, e.g., by
interweaving the strands, by the use of knots, by tapering, lapping, and
cementing the ends,
etc. 2. A method of reinforcing knits,
e.g., the heels and toes of hosiery, by introducing an
additional
yarn for strength.
SPLINTER- Two or more staple fibers adhering
together, causing a stiff cluster that resists
pulling
apart in normal processing, and reacting in the yarn spinning process similarly
to higher
than
nominal denier fiber.
SPLINTER COUNT- A measure of the number of
coalesced fibers, mealy particles, or other
such
matter in staple fiber.
SPLIT-DRAFT METIER- An extrusion cabinet for dry
spinning in which the drying medium
(hot
air) is introduced between the jet and the yarn outlet and flows in both
directions.
.
SPLIT END- 1. A defect in fabric caused by
breakage of some of the singles yarns in a plied
warp
yarn. 2. A defect in manufactured filament yarn caused by breakage of some
of the
filaments.
SPLIT-FLOW METIER- . SPLIT-DRAFT METIER.
SPLITTING- 1. In the processing of tow, a
defect in which the integrity of opened tow is
disturbed
by separation or division into two or more segments longitudinally. Splitting
can be
continuous
or intermittent, long or short term. 2. In slashing, the separation of sized yarn ends
before
takeup on the slasher beam.
SPOOL- A flanged wooden or metal
cylinder upon which yarn, thread, or wire is wound. The
spool
has an axial hole for a pin or spindle used in winding. (Also . BEAM.)
SPRING NEEDLE- A knitting machine needle with
a long, flexible hook, or beard,
that
allows the hook to be closed by an action known as pressing so that the loops
can be
cast off. The hook springs back to its original position when the presser bar
is
removed.
(Also . LATCH NEEDLE.)
SPUN-BONDED PRODUCTS- Nonwoven fabrics formed by
filaments that have been extruded,
drawn, then laid on a continuous belt. Bonding is accomplished
by several methods such as by hot roll calendering or
by
passing the web through a saturated-steam chamber at an elevated pressure.
SPUN FABRIC- A fabric made from staple
fibers that may contain
one or
a blend of two or more fiber types.
SPUNLACED FABRIC- A nonwoven fabric produced by
entangling
fibers
in a repeating pattern to form a strong fabric free of binders.
SPUNLIKE FILAMENT YARNS- . SIMULATED SPUN YARNS.
SPUN SILK- . SCHAPPE.
SPUN YARN- 1. A yarn consisting of staple
fibers usually bound together by twist. 2. A meltspun
fiber
before it is drawn.
SQUARE CONSTRUCTION- . BALANCED CLOTH.
.
SQUEEGEE- The portion of a
screen-printing apparatus consisting of a blade that forces the
print
paste through the screen onto the fabric.
SQUEEZE ROLLS- Rolls used to apply pressure
for removal of water or chemicals from fabric.
STABILITY- A term used to describe the
tendency of a fiber or fabric to return to its original
shape
after being subjected to external influence, such as tension, heat, or chemicals.
STABILIZED FIBER- Fiber that is heat or
chemically treated to set the fiber properties and
prevent
deterioration, shrinkage, etc. (Also . HEAT STABILIZED, HEAT SETTING and UV
ABSORBER.)
STAINING- The undesired pickup of color by
a fabric- (1) when immersed in water, drycleaning
solvent,
or similar liquid medium that contains dyestuffs or coloring material not
intended
for coloring the fabric; or (2) by direct contact with other dyed material from
which
color
is transferred by bleeding or sublimation.
STAINLESS-STEEL FIBER- Textile fibers made of
stainless steel. Steel fibers are used for
antistatic
purposes in carpets, for tire belt construction, and for high-temperature or
heat-resistant
end
uses.
STANDARD ATMOSPHERE- Air maintained at 70°F (21°C) and 65% relative humidity.
When
international testing is involved, a standard temperature of 20°C or, by agreement, 27°C
may be
used. Special humidity and temperature conditions are sometimes prescribed for
the
testing
of certain textiles for specific service predictions, resistance to water or
biological action,
etc.
STANDARD CONDITION- Standard condition is that
reached by a specimen when it is in
moisture
equilibrium with a standard atmosphere. Standard condition is seldom realized
in
practice
since laboratory atmospheres are continually fluctuating between narrow limits,
and it is
not
practical to wait for the attainment of moisture equilibrium which would
require several days
or more
for tightly wound samples of high regain material. Practically, specimens are
brought to
moisture
equilibrium in the standard atmosphere for testing as defined in these
definitions. The
term
“standard condition” should not be used as a synonym for the concept of
“standard
atmosphere.”
STANDARD DEVIATION- A measure of the dispersion of
a set of numbers based on the
difference
of the individual numbers from the mean.
STANDARD MOISTURE REGAIN- Accepted
moisture allowance for textile materials
expressed
in percentages of their dry weight.
STANDING WIRE- A broad term describing fixed
rods or strips extending through the loom
reed,
that control the height of the pile in a woven pile fabric.
STAPLE- Natural fibers or cut lengths
from filaments. The staple length of natural fibers varies
from
less than 1 inch as with some cotton fibers to several feet for some hard
fibers.
Manufactured
staple fibers are cut to a definite length, from 8 inches down to about 1-1/2
inches
(occasionally
down to 1 inch), so that they can be processed on cotton, woolen, or worsted
yarn
spinning
systems. The term staple (fiber) is used in the textile industry to distinguish
natural or
cut
length manufactured fibers from filament.
STAPLE PROCESSING- The conversion of staple into
spun yarns suitable in evenness, size,
twist,
and strength for use in the weaving or knitting of fabrics. (Also . TEXTILE
PROCESSING.)
.
STATIC- An accumulation of negative or
positive electricity on the surface of fibers or fabrics
because
of inadequate electrical dissipation during processing. Static results in an
electrical
attraction
or repulsion of the fibers relative to themselves, to machine parts, or to
other materials,
preventing
the fiber from traveling in a normal path in the process.
STATIC ADHESION- In tire cord, the measurement
of the strength of a cord-to-rubber bond
under
static conditions or very low strain rate.
STEAM CHEST- A steam-heated cabinet used in
manufactured fiber production. Usually refers
to the
heated cabinet in which spin-drawing is done or to the cabinet around a
stuffer-box
crimper.
STICKER- 1. A distortion in the weave
characterized by tight and slack places in the same warp
yarns.
The principal causes are rolled ends on the beam, warp ends restricted by
broken filament
slubs,
and knots catching at lease rods, drop wires, heddles, or reeds. (Also .
DRAW-BACK.)
2. . HARD SIZE.
STIFFNESS- The property of a fiber or
fabric to resist bending or to carry a load without
deformation.
It is based on the fiber modulus.
STITCHING- The process of passing a fiber
or thread through the thickness of fabric layers to
secure
them. In composite manufacture, stitching is used to make preforms or to
improve
damage
tolerance of complex-shaped parts.
STOCKINETTE- A knit fabric in tubular or
flat form made with a plain stitch from yarns of
wool,
cotton, manufactured fibers, or a combination of these fibers. Stockinette
fabrics are used
.
for
underwear, industrial applications, and other purposes. In heavier
constructions, dyed and
napped
stockinette finds apparel uses. (Also spelled stockinet.)
STOLL-QUARTERMASTER UNIVERSAL WEAR TESTER- A versatile testing apparatus
for
measuring wear resistance of fabrics, yarns, thread, etc. It can be equipped
with either of two
testing
heads, one for testing abrasion resistance of flat surfaces and the other for
testing
resistance
to flexing and abrasion. (. diagram.)
STOP MOTION- Any device that automatically
stops a textile machine’s operation on the
occurrence
of a yarn break, a high defect count, etc.
STRAIN RECOVERY CURVE- . TENSILE HYSTERESIS CURVE.
STRAND- 1. A single fiber, filament, or
monofilament. 2. An ordered assemblage of textile
fibers
having a high ratio of length to diameter and normally used as a unit; includes
slivers,
roving,
single yarns, plies yarns, cords, braids, ropes, etc.
STRAW- A general term for plant fibers
obtained from stems, stalks, leaves, bark, grass, etc.
They
are made into hats, bags, shoes, mats, etc., by weaving, plaiting, or braiding.
STREAK- A discoloration (rust, oil,
dye, grease, soap, etc.) extended as an irregular stripe in the
cloth.
STRENGTH COUNT PRODUCT- . BREAK FACTOR.
STRESS- The resistance to deformation
developed within a specimen subjected to an external
force.
Typical examples are tensile stress, shear stress, or compressive stress.
Stress usually
reaches
a maximum at the time of rupture. When a textile material is subjected to a
stress below
that
causing rupture, the stress gradually decreases or decays with time.
STRESS-STRAIN CURVE- A graphical representation,
showing the relationship between the
change
in dimension (in the direction of the applied stress) of the specimen from the
application
of an
external stress, and the magnitude of that stress. In tension tests of textile
materials, the
stress
can be expressed either in units of force per unit cross-sectional area, or in
force per unit
linear
density of the original specimen, and the strain can be expressed either as a
fraction or as a
percentage
of the original specimen length. (Also . LOAD-DEFORMATION CURVE.)
STRETCH BREAKING- In conversion of tow-to-top,
fibers are hot stretched and broken rather
than
cut to prevent some of the damage done by cutting.
.
STRETCH GROWTH- SECONDARY CREEP.
STRETCH SPINNING- A term used in the manufacture
of rayon. Rayon filaments are
stretched
while moist and before final coagulation to decrease their diameter and
increase their
strength.
STRETCH YARN- . TEXTURED YARNS.
STRIATIONS- Streaks or bands or various
nature in fibers or fabrics.
STRIE- A term describing any cloth
having irregular stripes or streaks of practically the same
color
as the background.
STRINGUP- . THREADUP.
STRINGY SELVAGE- . SLACK SELVAGE.
STRIPPING- 1. A chemical process for removing
color from dyed cloth by the use of various
chemicals.
Stripping is done when the color is unsatisfactory and the fabric is to be
redyed. 2.
The
physical process of removing fiber that in embedded in the clothing of a card. 3. .
DEGUMMING.
STUFFER BOX- A mechanism for crimping in
which a fiber bundle (e.g., tow or filament yarn)
is
jammed against itself, causing it to crimp. By the suitable application of heat
(usually wet
steam)
and pressure to the stuffed tow, a high and permanent crimp can be forced into
the bundle.
(Also .
TEXTURING, Stuffer Box Method.)
STUFFERS- Extra yarns running in the warp
direction through a woven fabric to increase the
fabric’s
strength and weight.
S TWIST- . TWIST, DIRECTION OF.
STYRENE- An unsaturated hydrocarbon, (C6H5-CH = CH2), prepared from coal tar.
Polystyrene
is a
colorless, transparent plastic used for molding various articles for
insulation, transparent
parts,
radio parts, etc.
SUBLIMATION- A phase change in which a
substance, such as a dye, passes directly from the
solid
to the vapor phase without passing through a liquid phase. This process is the
basis for
transfer
printing.
SUBLISTATIC PROCESS- A method of applying print
designs to fabrics containing
manufactured
fibers by paper-transfer techniques. Developed by Sublistatic Corp. (Also .
PRINTING,
Heat Transfer Printing.)
SUBSTRATE- Fabric to which coatings or
other fabrics are applied. It can be of woven, knit,
nonwoven,
or weft-insertion construction. Generally, substrate properties are dependent
both on
fiber
type and fabric construction. Usually the fabric is scoured, heat-set, and
otherwise finished
prior
to coating or bonding. Many smooth-surfaced manufactured fiber fabrics require
impregnation
with a latex prior to coating to ensure adequate adhesion.
SUBSURFACE STABILIZATION FABRICS- . GEOTEXTILES.
.
SUEDE FABRIC- Woven or knitted cloth finished
to resemble suede leather, usually by
napping,
shearing, and sanding techniques.
SULFAR FIBER- A manufactured fiber in which
the fiber-forming substance is a long chain,
synthetic
polysulfide in which at least 85% of the sulfide (-S-) linkages are attached to
two
aromatic
rings (FTC definition). The raw material is polyphenylene sulfide which is melt
spun
and
processed into staple fibers. These are high performance fibers with excellent
resistance to
strong
chemicals and high temperature. They show excellent strength retention in harsh
environments;
are flame retardant; and are non-conducting. They find use in high-temperature
filter
fabrics, electrical insulation, coal-fired boiler bag houses, papermaker’s
felt, and highperformance
composites.
SUPERABSORBENT- A material that can absorb many
times the amount of liquid ordinarily
absorbed
by cellulosic materials such as wood pulp, cotton, and rayon.
SURAH- A soft fabric of silk or
filament polyester or acetate, usually a twill and often woven in
a
plaid. Surah is used for ties, mufflers, blouses, and dresses.
SURFACE CHARGE- The electrical charge on the
surface of a substance.
SURFACE ENERGY- 1. The free energy of the surfaces
at an interface that arises because of
differences
in the tendencies of each phase to attract its own molecules. 2. The work that would
be
required to increase the surface area of a liquid by one unit area.
SURFACE TENSION- Intermolecular forces acting on
the molecules at the free surface of a
liquid
tend to minimize the surface area of the liquid and give the surface properties
similar to
those
of an elastic skin under tension. When two dissimilar liquids make contact,
these
intermolecular
forces will cause the shape of the interface to change until the potential
energy of
the
entire molecular system is at a minimum.
SURFACTANT- A surface-active agent, i.e., a
product that acts by modifying the surface or
boundary
between two phases.
SWATCH- A piece of fabric used as a
representative sample of any fabric.
SWELLING- In textile usage, expanding of
a fiber caused by the influence of a solvent or chemical
agent. A property often used to facilitate dyeing
SYNDIOTACTIC POLYMER- A polymer structure in which
the atoms that are not part of the backbone chain are distributed
in a symmetrical and recurring manner above and mbelow
the backbone chain when the latter is in a single plane.